TopCoat Appreciation Thread

[whoopee]

Matt's overcoat is the finest I've ever seen.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Thanks Whoopee.

FC,

It is a Holland and Sherry cashmere. Further than that, I do not know. It has one large inverted pleat running down the center and the belt gathers the extra fabric on the sides. One large pleat/gather is sewn in on each side and the rest is free to do as it may.

 

[Soph]

Originally Posted by iammatt

Thanks Whoopee.

FC,

It is a Holland and Sherry cashmere. Further than that, I do not know. It has one large inverted pleat running down the center and the belt gathers the extra fabric on the sides. One large pleat/gather is sewn in on each side and the rest is free to do as it may.

Speaking of cashmere the brown one is made from Carlo Barbera cashmere, which I believe is a very good positive.

By the way, is that not Rubinacci Bespoke, Matthew?
You got to give us the goods on how it came to be?

 

[AlanC]

Originally Posted by Full Canvas

AlanC, since your Rothman’s/Eldridge is double breasted, might it not be more appropriately considered an Ulster coat rather than a polo coat (plenty of drape, no buttons, wrap, fully-belted in lieu of buttons) such as the Chris Despos’ polo-inspired model picture above? Your coat’s double breast, patch/flap pockets, and sleeve cuffs scream Ulster. Does the coat have a martingale? The Sulka in my image below is an Ulster. You can’t see the martingale; but, it is there. I remember your exciting discovery thread about that lovely old Oxxford. Both of your veteran coats are wonderful in their own unique manner.

This according to Bruce Boyer in his book Elegance:

And the requirements of the genre are explicit and strict: an authentic polo coat is double-breasted, full-length, and full-cut camelhair cloth; it has patch pockets, set-in sleeves, cuffs, and a half-belt.

Now according to that, mine is a polo coat. I am not sure what the differences between an ulster and a polo would be. Mine does have a half-belt, btw.

Edit: I notice that jamgood does identify the collar on my coat as an Ulster collar in an AAAC thread.

Thank you for the kind words regarding the coats. Now if it would only get cold enough to wear them.

 

[odoreater]

My meager topcoat. It's not Attolini or anything (or even close), but what the hell.

 

[Full Canvas]

Originally Posted by iammatt

It is a Holland and Sherry cashmere. Further than that, I do not know. It has one large inverted pleat running down the center and the belt gathers the extra fabric on the sides. One large pleat/gather is sewn in on each side and the rest is free to do as it may.

Thanks for the cloth reference. I know what general pleat type you mean. One of Mrs. FC’s Kiton overcoats has a similar inverted pleat. It runs upward from the hem to the coat’s waist where it ends as if to form a truncated pyramid. The top of the pleat is almost seven inches across rather than concluding in an apex.
_____________

Originally Posted by AlanC

This according to Bruce Boyer in his book Elegance:

"And the requirements of the genre are explicit and strict: an authentic polo coat is double-breasted, full-length, and full-cut camelhair cloth; it has patch pockets, set-in sleeves, cuffs, and a half-belt."

Now according to that, mine is a polo coat. I am not sure what the differences between an ulster and a polo would be. Mine does have a half-belt, btw.

Thank you for the Bruce Boyer reference. Although I am not a member of the august LL forum, a thread in that forum is herein referenced. Rather than quote without permission, I shall simply supply the link. http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...ulster&start=0

LL members (including the forum’s founder, Mr. Alden, along with Eutee, and SF’s Manton) have some interesting remarks and images posted on the thread. There is even a photo of HRH Prince Charles in an Ulster coat that is almost the twin of my Sulka. The AA illustrations and the photo of a beautiful Caraceni coat are not to be missed. Notable is an unintentionally comical photo of the Duke of Windsor in the very first post of the thread. The Hulton Archive apparently printed the original photo with the negative reversed. The men’s garments are buttoned right over left as a lady’s garment is buttoned.

Back to the Ulster coat or Polo coat question, perhaps we are all correct. The discourse seems to imply that the granddaddy of all such overcoats is the Paletot. The Paletot sired the Ulster and the Ulster inspired the Polo. Manton’s remarks seem to parallel what you say that Boyer wrote. However, both Mr. Alden and Eutee provide a broader historical point of view. I highly recommend this fascinating thread on LL. The thread’s actual topic is LL’s own DB Limited Edition Overcoat.
___________________________________

 

[Soph]

My bad. I should clarify that this is an OverCoat thread not the shorter topcoat.

 

[kitonbrioni]

Oxxford:

Brioni:

Loro Piana Storm System:

Kiton:

Vintage vicuña:

Oxxford:

 

[LabelKing]

I have a variety of coats, both long and short, but this is the only one I have an image of:

Comme des Garcons self-destructive trenchcoat in an English tweed.

 

[Jovan]

Originally Posted by Soph

My bad. I should clarify that this is an OverCoat thread not the shorter topcoat.

There's a difference?

 

[trogdor]

wow!

kitonbrioni : topcoats :: aportnoy : shoes

handsome collections all round, gentlemen.

 

[Nantucket Red]

Kitonbrioni, we'd expect nothing less than that magnificent collection.

My most recent aquisition is a BB black deer leather DB coat.

I also have an RL navy DB peacoat, a mohair DB overcoat from the Darien Sports Shop via the Darien Thrift Shop

and a Paul Stuart dk. grey herringbone Chesterfield bought at a tag-sale for $20.

No pix.

 

[Britalian]

Originally Posted by Soph

The Despos OVERCOAT:
The color is awesome
PS Nice patch pockets Matt.

That thing is spectacular. $$??

Reminds me of the one by Anania which Brando wore in 'Tango'

 

[AlanC]

Originally Posted by Full Canvas

Although I am not a member of the august LL forum, a thread in that forum is herein referenced. Rather than quote without permission, I shall simply supply the link. http://thelondonlounge.net/gl/forum/...ulster&start=0

LL members (including the forum's founder, Mr. Alden, along with Eutee, and SF's Manton) have some interesting remarks and images posted on the thread. ...

Back to the Ulster coat or Polo coat question, perhaps we are all correct. The discourse seems to imply that the granddaddy of all such overcoats is the Paletot. The Paletot sired the Ulster and the Ulster inspired the Polo. Manton's remarks seem to parallel what you say that Boyer wrote. However, both Mr. Alden and Eutee provide a broader historical point of view. I highly recommend this fascinating thread on LL. The thread's actual topic is LL's own DB Limited Edition Overcoat.
Thank you for the link. I had not seen that thread. Mr. Alden sums things up by stating that a polo essentially is an Ulster made in camelhair. 'Polo coat' also seems to be primarily a term in American usage, although it originated in England. Would one go so far as to say the camelhair polo coat is the quintessential American overcoat? Seems like Boyer may assert such. I'll have to go take another look at Elegance.

Kitonbrioni, that's an amazing collection.

 

[romafan]

Are we talking topcoats or overcoats? Most of the coats posted I would consider to be overcoats(?) I always thought topcoats were lighter and slighty shorter than proper overcoats. Weather-wise, to my mind topcoats occupy the 35 - 55 degree strata, whereas OCs are more for freezing temperatures...

I picked up a brautiful camel-colored herringbone topcoat from Ian D. during his NY trunk show - unfortunately I don't have the technical savvy to take (let alone post ) a picture, and it's too warm this week to wear it!