Montauk
Senior Member
- Joined
- Jul 22, 2008
- Messages
- 455
- Reaction score
- 32
I had the pleasure last night of attending Thomas Mahon's gathering in the back room of Ten Bells in Manhattan. Approximately 15 attendees paid $150 each for a chance to win a bespoke suit, with all proceeds going to City Harvest.
Good odds, but at $150 a pop, I'm afraid I'm no gambler, and so I dropped by just in time to see the lucky winner drawn from a hat. Tom immediately started measuring him up, recruiting me to fill out the chart. He then moved to the table where he proceeded to draft the trouser and coat paper pattern itself, narrating the entire process and fielding questions as he went.
Although he used the winner's actual measurements, the pattern (pleated trousers, 2 button, SB w/ hacking pockets and ticket pocket) was clearly for demonstration purposes only, as there was no discussion of what cut the winner preferred (not that he seemed bothered!).
The coat in particular was fascinating to watch take shape. As he chalked it up (largely rock-of-eye), Tom discussed everything from drape, pull (he pointedly favors it--yes!), darts, armscyes, eased shoulder seams, skirt flare, lapel belly, open quarters, and the oft-misunderstood issue of balance.
The highlight of the evening for me was when he asked for a volunteer to cut out the pattern. After what I promise was a polite pause, I again volunteered. Giving his famous heavy shears a diligent pass though my hair (yay!), I proceeded to not entirely embarrass myself. I don't think I'd cut out shapes from paper since I was using safety scissors, and by comparison, these were like wielding a double-bladed sword!
Afterwards, Tom autographed the coat pattern for me, which along with the chalk he drew it with, will be framed in my comfortably small-time living room.
Tom's tailor Paul was also there, although I didn't get a chance to talk with him.
All told it was an absolutely amazing experience. Tom was every bit the gentleman and generous host, and I really appreciate his willingness to spend time entertaining and educating folks like myself who, although we might never be able to justify the cost of such fine bespoke, nevertheless admire and respect both the art and the artisan.
Good odds, but at $150 a pop, I'm afraid I'm no gambler, and so I dropped by just in time to see the lucky winner drawn from a hat. Tom immediately started measuring him up, recruiting me to fill out the chart. He then moved to the table where he proceeded to draft the trouser and coat paper pattern itself, narrating the entire process and fielding questions as he went.
Although he used the winner's actual measurements, the pattern (pleated trousers, 2 button, SB w/ hacking pockets and ticket pocket) was clearly for demonstration purposes only, as there was no discussion of what cut the winner preferred (not that he seemed bothered!).
The coat in particular was fascinating to watch take shape. As he chalked it up (largely rock-of-eye), Tom discussed everything from drape, pull (he pointedly favors it--yes!), darts, armscyes, eased shoulder seams, skirt flare, lapel belly, open quarters, and the oft-misunderstood issue of balance.
The highlight of the evening for me was when he asked for a volunteer to cut out the pattern. After what I promise was a polite pause, I again volunteered. Giving his famous heavy shears a diligent pass though my hair (yay!), I proceeded to not entirely embarrass myself. I don't think I'd cut out shapes from paper since I was using safety scissors, and by comparison, these were like wielding a double-bladed sword!
Afterwards, Tom autographed the coat pattern for me, which along with the chalk he drew it with, will be framed in my comfortably small-time living room.
Tom's tailor Paul was also there, although I didn't get a chance to talk with him.
All told it was an absolutely amazing experience. Tom was every bit the gentleman and generous host, and I really appreciate his willingness to spend time entertaining and educating folks like myself who, although we might never be able to justify the cost of such fine bespoke, nevertheless admire and respect both the art and the artisan.