Toe metal protectors

[alliswell]

Originally Posted by dr.no

Can anyone who's had these done a B.Nelson please comment on quality of workmanship?

It's better than Empire.

 

[Slewfoot]

Originally Posted by dr.no

Can anyone who's had these done a B.Nelson please comment on quality of workmanship?

I've had Nick at B. Nelson do around 10 pairs of my shoes. The quality of workmanship is very good. The taps feel very structured like they are a part of the shoes themselves. There are some markings left on the bottom of the sole from some cutting, but I could care less about that. I wear out my toes pretty quickly so these are great to have.

 

[dr.no]

Originally Posted by alliswell

It's better than Empire.

Originally Posted by Slewfoot

I've had Nick at B. Nelson do around 10 pairs of my shoes. The quality of workmanship is very good. The taps feel very structured like they are a part of the shoes themselves. There are some markings left on the bottom of the sole from some cutting, but I could care less about that. I wear out my toes pretty quickly so these are great to have.

Awesome, thanks. I'll be dropping off a pair at B.Nelsons today which is much closer to my office.

 

[Quadcammer]

bringing this one back up.

After two days of wear, I'm almost to the welt on a pair of alfred sarget premier chathams.

Yes, its NYC and yes I wear my toes quickly, but this is ridiculous.

I'm thinking of having Minas or B.Nelson do the flush mounts.

I work on wall street so Minas is much closer more convenient, but if nelson does a better job, I'll make the trip.

So what say you?

Btw, how long will these metal plates? I would imagine they would outlast the rest of the sole.

Can the shoe be sent back to the factory for recrafting once the rest of the sole is gone or would they resist due to their "no cobbler work" rule?

Thanks all.

 

[acecow]

I'll add another question.

I've had a pair of rubber toe protectors installed on a pair of shoes of mine. They weren't flushed, just glued and nailed to the sole. Is that good enough or are there real disadvantages to that besides the aesthetics part? Is metal better, because it doesn't wear out as fast as rubber? If the rubber protectors wear out, can new ones be nailed into the same holes or do they damage the sole every time they are installed?

 

[entrero]

Originally Posted by Quadcammer

bringing this one back up.

Originally Posted by acecow

...

Look in this thread http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=232796

According to guru DWFII flushed metal toe-taps are bad. Also in the thread, lots of drama

 

[Quadcammer]

Originally Posted by entrero

Look in this thread http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=232796 According to guru DWFII flushed metal toe-taps are bad. Also in the thread, lots of drama
well, regardless of the complaint, Nick seems to be a big fan of the toe plates, and DFW is suggesting that a stitched on rubber toe-piece is the correct answer. That said, I haven't seen anyone do these rubber toe pieces. You wouldn't think a respected cobbler would make a point of ruining the insole with toe plates. I need to do SOMETHING though. Almost to the welt in 2 wears is patently unacceptable. At this rate, I'd be resoling in 2 weeks.

 

[Theshuguru]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

The one issue with flush plates being retrofitted, rather than made with that in mind, is that the welt would have to be cut around the toe.

Seems like a plus minus type of thing: you put the plate on to save the toe, but then you lose the welting to rely just on glue.

If it is made with that in mind, it's rockin.' I get flush rubber toe plates on my MTO Vass, but they finish the welt around that, as they do in the bespoke versions in this thread.

- B

They cut the welt around the toe?? How do you know? Do you make them?????

Of course they don't cut the welt, they 'let' the plate into the sole only, cutting deep enough to make the plate sit flush with the sole, but not too deep to cut the sole stitch in the channel.

Another stupid comment from someone who knows 'Jack' about shoemaking. Stick to comments on style, isn't this 'Styleforum' not 'Shoemakingforum'

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

The one issue with flush plates being retrofitted, rather than made with that in mind, is that the welt would have to be cut around the toe.

Seems like a plus minus type of thing: you put the plate on to save the toe, but then you lose the welting to rely just on glue.

If it is made with that in mind, it's rockin.' I get flush rubber toe plates on my MTO Vass, but they finish the welt around that, as they do in the bespoke versions in this thread.

- B

Originally Posted by Theshuguru

They cut the welt around the toe?? How do you know? Do you make them?????

Of course they don't cut the welt, they 'let' the plate into the sole only, cutting deep enough to make the plate sit flush with the sole, but not too deep to cut the sole stitch in the channel.

Another stupid comment from someone who knows 'Jack' about shoemaking. Stick to comments on style, isn't this 'Styleforum' not 'Shoemakingforum'

 

[DWFII]

Originally Posted by Theshuguru

They cut the welt around the toe?? How do you know? Do you make them????? Of course they don't cut the welt, they 'let' the plate into the sole only, cutting deep enough to make the plate sit flush with the sole, but not too deep to cut the sole stitch in the channel. Another stupid comment from someone who knows 'Jack' about shoemaking. Stick to comments on style, isn't this 'Styleforum' not 'Shoemakingforum'
My name is "jack" and I do know something about shoemaking... He's right and you're wrong. Or at least understating the problem. Flush toe plates are, depending on make and manufacture, anywhere from 1/8"+ to nearly 1/4" thick. An outsole can be anywhere from 1/8" to 1/4" thick--6 iron to 12 iron. But as a general rule 10 iron--less than 1/4"--is standard for men's work. Channels cut into the outsole are seldom more than one-third the thickness of the outsole. Flush toe plates cut the threads that hold the outsole to the welt just in the process of making room for the plates. This effectively leaves any remnant of the outsole attached to the welt by virtually nothing but glue. When the plates are mounted, screws are used that are, by necessity, situated such that some of them go into the "inseam"--threads that hold the welt to the gemming (or insole). The screws cut and mangle those stitches. Other screws go into the insole. Some will, depending on the thickness of the insole, fully penetrate the insole, emerging inside the shoe. Ordinarily this is no problem because there is, on a correctly fitted shoe, room between the end of the toes of the foot and the end of the shoe--we call this toe clearance. I think anyone posting to any subject would be well advised to know what he/she is talking about lest they end up acting the fool.

 

[patrickBOOTH]

Not to mention replying to a quote that was made 3 years ago.