sq4you
Mid-level baller
- Joined
- Nov 26, 2008
- Messages
- 2,429
- Reaction score
- 281
Just got a glimpse of the new Thom Browne "Diffusion" line for SS10.
Since it still hasn't hit the racks, I wasn't supposed to take pictures of it but I managed to sneak a few in the changing room (excuse the blurry photos). I've included a description of the pieces I saw, the materials and the pricing. As you will see, there is a reason why I placed the word "diffusion" in quotes in the thread title. I tried on a couple pieces to see how it compared in sizing to the mainline Thom Browne stuff I own.
The dress shirts are very similar to (if not the same as) the mainline in terms of sizing and material. Cotton shirts offer his traditional, higher-than-BoO arm holes and are ultra-sturdy.
Ridiculously, the white oxford pictured retails for $240 which is only $15 cheaper than the mainline solid colored oxfords. It does, however, have the striped detailing under the buttons which would probably boost the price of the mainline equivalent significantly. I didn't analyze all the shirts super closely but it seems they lack the fancy tapering on the back of the shoulders like the mainline shirts.
The logo patch on the insider collar is the exact same as the mainline pieces. The same is true of the thick, black wood, TB logo'ed hangers upon which the shirts reside.
The traditional patch on the bottom front left does not include the name of the store to which the pieces were sent (mainline will say Barneys or Bergdorf Goodman, etc). Additionally, the patch is missing the words "Handmade in the USA." The label inside (which appears to be missing on some of the dress shirts) states that they are still made in the USA.
The sleeve/cuff interface, however, has the fancy tapering as can be seen in the photo below.
The selection of ties is awesome and consists primarily of 3 color-striped combinations. The silk feels very high quality and each tie is bordering on $200....this also seems relatively high to me for a diffusion line. I can't remember if these were made in the USA or Italy.
A striped light blue oxford was also available for $240. This shirt did not have any of the 3-color stripe details like the white oxford.
I also saw a grey hoodie with YKK zipper and (if I remember correctly) 4 painted white stripes on the left bicep. Upon close inspection, it seemed that the stripes had some cracking and may be susceptible to coming off in a wash. It had a lot of the 3 color stripe detailing (such as the hoddie draw strings) as well as striped piping through the insides. It was very warm and solid feeling altogether and very reasonably priced ($260 if memory serves me right).
I saw some fugly grey shorts made of a sweat-pant type material for lack of a better analogy sporting the same white stripes as the hoodie. I thought they were so ugly I didnt bother to inspect them.
Two, interesting, short-sleeved, patchwork, madras shirts were available; one of the red variety and the other featuring blueish colors. These were similarly priced to the oxfords.
Finally, I tried on the summer jacket pictured below. This jacket had many great features but the shoulders were so boxy they were almost princess-like. This, combined with the absolutely-bizarro-for-thom-browne girth of the biceps, forced me to quickly dismiss the jacket as a non-kop for myself. Around the torso, waist and sleeves, the jack fit perfectly fine and included several button knotches for personal adjustment. The jacket retails for $660 (which is what I would expect for a diffusion TB jacket). Quality seemed great as well. Jacket was, interestly, made in Japan.
The sides of the jacket (shown below) also have adjustable straps and high venting.
All in all, I think this line is targeted at people who can normally afford Margiela. Referring to this line as "true diffusion" is highly debatable given that the oxfords are essentially the same price as mainline TB and the ties boarder Lanvin prices..... successfully preventing would-be-TB-owning-plebs from acquiring the holy grail of mens clothing. Who knows though, maybe the world will get lucky and Thom will jump on the "made exclusively for Gilt" bandwagon that supposedly doesn't exist
Since it still hasn't hit the racks, I wasn't supposed to take pictures of it but I managed to sneak a few in the changing room (excuse the blurry photos). I've included a description of the pieces I saw, the materials and the pricing. As you will see, there is a reason why I placed the word "diffusion" in quotes in the thread title. I tried on a couple pieces to see how it compared in sizing to the mainline Thom Browne stuff I own.
The dress shirts are very similar to (if not the same as) the mainline in terms of sizing and material. Cotton shirts offer his traditional, higher-than-BoO arm holes and are ultra-sturdy.
Ridiculously, the white oxford pictured retails for $240 which is only $15 cheaper than the mainline solid colored oxfords. It does, however, have the striped detailing under the buttons which would probably boost the price of the mainline equivalent significantly. I didn't analyze all the shirts super closely but it seems they lack the fancy tapering on the back of the shoulders like the mainline shirts.
The logo patch on the insider collar is the exact same as the mainline pieces. The same is true of the thick, black wood, TB logo'ed hangers upon which the shirts reside.
The traditional patch on the bottom front left does not include the name of the store to which the pieces were sent (mainline will say Barneys or Bergdorf Goodman, etc). Additionally, the patch is missing the words "Handmade in the USA." The label inside (which appears to be missing on some of the dress shirts) states that they are still made in the USA.
The sleeve/cuff interface, however, has the fancy tapering as can be seen in the photo below.
The selection of ties is awesome and consists primarily of 3 color-striped combinations. The silk feels very high quality and each tie is bordering on $200....this also seems relatively high to me for a diffusion line. I can't remember if these were made in the USA or Italy.
A striped light blue oxford was also available for $240. This shirt did not have any of the 3-color stripe details like the white oxford.
I also saw a grey hoodie with YKK zipper and (if I remember correctly) 4 painted white stripes on the left bicep. Upon close inspection, it seemed that the stripes had some cracking and may be susceptible to coming off in a wash. It had a lot of the 3 color stripe detailing (such as the hoddie draw strings) as well as striped piping through the insides. It was very warm and solid feeling altogether and very reasonably priced ($260 if memory serves me right).
I saw some fugly grey shorts made of a sweat-pant type material for lack of a better analogy sporting the same white stripes as the hoodie. I thought they were so ugly I didnt bother to inspect them.
Two, interesting, short-sleeved, patchwork, madras shirts were available; one of the red variety and the other featuring blueish colors. These were similarly priced to the oxfords.
Finally, I tried on the summer jacket pictured below. This jacket had many great features but the shoulders were so boxy they were almost princess-like. This, combined with the absolutely-bizarro-for-thom-browne girth of the biceps, forced me to quickly dismiss the jacket as a non-kop for myself. Around the torso, waist and sleeves, the jack fit perfectly fine and included several button knotches for personal adjustment. The jacket retails for $660 (which is what I would expect for a diffusion TB jacket). Quality seemed great as well. Jacket was, interestly, made in Japan.
The sides of the jacket (shown below) also have adjustable straps and high venting.
All in all, I think this line is targeted at people who can normally afford Margiela. Referring to this line as "true diffusion" is highly debatable given that the oxfords are essentially the same price as mainline TB and the ties boarder Lanvin prices..... successfully preventing would-be-TB-owning-plebs from acquiring the holy grail of mens clothing. Who knows though, maybe the world will get lucky and Thom will jump on the "made exclusively for Gilt" bandwagon that supposedly doesn't exist
