The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

[wurger]

Good article on Tudor's factory from GQ

https://www.gq-magazine.co.uk/article/inside-the-tudor-watch-factory

 

[Benjamin Chee HH]

Not a cosmetic problem but an internal one— my Celadon is running fast. Maybe a minute/day. Easy adjustment?

Should be a simple fix. Just send it back to me and I'll get it taken care of. Or do you have a competent watchmaker near you?

This sort of thing sometimes happens during air travel, or when the watch is shaken a bit too violently.

 

[MrUnderwood]

I really like the Tudors - especially with the 58 they seem to going in the right direction - smaller and wearable watches. Just wished they would lower thickness a tad more to around 9,5mm - the current 12mm is still quite big in my book.

 

[wurger]

I really like the Tudors - especially with the 58 they seem to going in the right direction - smaller and wearable watches. Just wished they would lower thickness a tad more to around 9,5mm - the current 12mm is still quite big in my book.

Yes, I also prefer thinner watches where possible.

The domed crystal for Tudors are close to 2mm, so the real height is around 10mm for the BB 58

 

[MrUnderwood]

Yes, I also prefer thinner watches where possible.

The domed crystal for Tudors are close to 2mm, so the real height is around 10mm for the BB 58

Do you, or anyone else, know whether it would be possible to add a 'regular' crystal to remove some of the height, or is something that i should just completely avoid and not even consider?

 

[wurger]

I don’t know, I don’t mod any of my watches.

 

[Dino944]

Do you, or anyone else, know whether it would be possible to add a 'regular' crystal to remove some of the height, or is something that i should just completely avoid and not even consider?

Most manufacturers will not modify their watches for you, so I presume you would need to find some sort of aftermarket crystal that would be a close fit. This type of mod probably voids the manufacturer's warranty, or of you have an issue, now it must go have its original crystal reinstalled before sending it in for warranty work. Companies like Rolex, will not work on a modded watch unless it is returned to its original configuration at your cost (and they confiscate the aftermarket parts when they replace them with factory parts). How well an aftermarket crystal will fit, is anyone's guess. A watch with nearly but not perfectly fitted crystal will compromise the ability to keep moisture out, potentially leading to a stained dial over time, or if worn in a pool potentially allowing water directly into it. Then there are other questions such as will the outer edges of the hands get caught on a crystal with a lower profile? In the end, it seems like a modification that is hardly worth the hassles and risks. However, if it makes someone happy to mod a watch...go for it.

 

[LA Guy]

Most manufacturers will not modify their watches for you, so I presume you would need to find some sort of aftermarket crystal that would be a close fit. This type of mod probably voids the manufacturer's warranty, or of you have an issue, now it must go have its original crystal reinstalled before sending it in for warranty work. Companies like Rolex, will not work on a modded watch unless it is returned to its original configuration at your cost (and they confiscate the aftermarket parts when they replace them with factory parts). How well an aftermarket crystal will fit, is anyone's guess. A watch with nearly but not perfectly fitted crystal will compromise the ability to keep moisture out, potentially leading to a stained dial over time, or if worn in a pool potentially allowing water directly into it. Then there are other questions such as will the outer edges of the hands get caught on a crystal with a lower profile? In the end, it seems like a modification that is hardly worth the hassles and risks. However, if it makes someone happy to mod a watch...go for it.

Frankly, except for very routine issues, I am loathe to send the watches back to the manufacturer. Aside from the dubious legality of confiscating sometimes very expensiv aftermarket parts, I've heard a lot of horror stories about Rolex in particular and other companies in general doing thing like replacing dials and hands with no regard for the wishes of the owner. All of this, imho, points to a certain arrogance and disregard for the consumer. If you buy a watch, and are willing to void the warranty, you may do whatever you wish to your watch, and the company has no place confiscating any of your personal property. They might decline to work on your watch, of course.

Personally, I would much rather (and do) send my watch to companies like Grand Central Time, who typically understand and respect the wishes of the watch owner better.

 

[LA Guy]

Do you, or anyone else, know whether it would be possible to add a 'regular' crystal to remove some of the height, or is something that i should just completely avoid and not even consider?

Aside from the points already made, I would caution against a mod unless you know well what you are going to get and how it will look, or will be okay with the outcome regardless. Often, mods and custom work dosn't turn out the way you envisioned it in your mind's eye.

 

[MrUnderwood]

Yeah, cheers for the reply both of you. I am just afraid that Tudor decides to make my dream watch (Black Bay 58 in blue) but i am unable to wear it because they continue with this lousy 12mm, which is too thick. 10mm is the cut-off for me.

 

[Lumaca]

Yeah, cheers for the reply both of you. I am just afraid that Tudor decides to make my dream watch (Black Bay 58 in blue) but i am unable to wear it because they continue with this lousy 12mm, which is too thick. 10mm is the cut-off for me.

I don't even think you can find a modern diver thinner than 12mm... Rado Captain Cook maybe?

 

[apropos]

I don't even think you can find a modern diver thinner than 12mm... Rado Captain Cook maybe?

10mm thick case, but domed sapphire crystal adds another 2mm.

 

[Dino944]

Frankly, except for very routine issues, I am loathe to send the watches back to the manufacturer. Aside from the dubious legality of confiscating sometimes very expensiv aftermarket parts, I've heard a lot of horror stories about Rolex in particular and other companies in general doing thing like replacing dials and hands with no regard for the wishes of the owner. All of this, imho, points to a certain arrogance and disregard for the consumer. If you buy a watch, and are willing to void the warranty, you may do whatever you wish to your watch, and the company has no place confiscating any of your personal property. They might decline to work on your watch, of course.

Personally, I would much rather (and do) send my watch to companies like Grand Central Time, who typically understand and respect the wishes of the watch owner better.

Sorry, but have to disagree with much of this. Still everyone is free to do what they like with their watches. Most watch companies will not swap things out without running it by the owner, Rolex included as they charge for new dials and hands. If you have an independent that you like that is great. Maybe they are fine with a basic Datejust, Omega, or IWC. However, if someone has something a bit more exotic like a Patek, AP, VC, etc...I can't imagine potentially putting the watch in worse hands than that of most independent watch makers. Most have no access to authentic parts (should any be needed). Furthermore, I've seen some complete F*ck ups on the part of independents! Ever seen what a Royal Oak and its movement look like after an independent didn't properly pressure proof it and water gets in...hmmm nothing quite like a Swiss paper weight to change one's opinion of independents. Not to mention, good luck trying to get the guy to buy you a replacement. Sure you can sue him, but that can take years and cost a lot of money...and who knows if he even has any assets if you get a judgment against him. I've also seen Royal Oaks, Nautiluses and other watches with complex case designs that were so over polished they looked like all the crisp beveled edges and the bezels had melted. AP or PP does this during a service, they have the funds, resources and watches, to make it right. I doubt the independent does.

Again, there may be a handful of very good trustworthy independent watch makers,...but just like horror stories with manufacturers, there are no shortage of them with independents either.

 

[Concordia]

Nomos Club Aqua is thinner and goes down to 200m pressure. But it is not a diver’s tool.

 

[Medwed]

And that is why I am only buying ETA or vintage. Every part can be found for little money and every competent independent can fix them just fine. Plus the market offers such a variety outside of 2-3 brands that churn out same old same old for generations that I hardly see an incentive in dropping 20+ K then paying upwards of 1K for each service.