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The Watch Appreciation Thread - Part two (Rolex, Patek Philippe, Audemars Piguet, Jaeger LeCoultre,

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by mimo, Feb 12, 2016.

  1. Ambulance Chaser

    Ambulance Chaser Stylish Dinosaur

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    IWC is just responding to the market. Most guys who pay four figures and up for a watch want other people to know that they paid four four figures and up. That means buying a watch that is instantly recognizable (Rolex Sub, Cartier Tank) or a watch that is big and showy (Panerai, modern IWC/Breitling). I think that the IWC Mark XI is one of the most beautifully minimalist watches ever made, and even I would have to think hard about forking over $7K+ for that watch.
     

  2. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    So, I don't want this watch, but I find it pretty awesome. I would be amazed and happy to see this watch in person. While I'm neither wealthy nor a pot smoker, I have magnetized more than one watch simply by resting it on top of my computer, so at least we'd have that in common.

    I also completely agree with you that most people are terrible designers. It's just hard to really visualize a finished product. Even very good designers often go through a slew of prototypes before coming up with the one that works. This is main reason that I am such a strong advocate for RTW for the majority of people, at least when they start buying tailored clothing. I did GMTO shoes/boots for the forum for a while, and even for me, it took a couple of iterations before I could tell immediately if something was going to work, or just look quite unlike what people had in mind.

    To be clear, the mod that I bought does have a sort of cult following - it's the much discussed Mitsukoshi Speedmaster Pro dial and handset mod - so it didn't stem from the desire, in that specific case - to personalize for the sake of doing so. I just liked the dial and handset, and the more I read about it, the more I liked that there is, in the community of watch enthusiasts, a small, punk, subgroup that embraces this ethos, sourcing difficult to find original parts (since Omega has long since clamped down on this), and taking the time and energy to do this. Thanks for bringing us back on subject, as usual, Dino. When you have time, maybe you could PM me and tell me what brands your store carries? I might be interested in something, and would love to patronize a forum member. It wouldn't be for a bit though, since I'm rather spent out for the time being.
     

  3. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Oh, I know, and from what I understand, IWC did great under Kern. I just don't personally find the watches appealing. Then again, I'm neither a "conspicuous wealth" nor for that matter a "stealth wealth" guy. I'm simply a product nerd with extremely idiosyncratic tastes.

    If you can't stomach the current prices for the Mk XI, maybe an IWC dirty dozen (so, Mk X?)? Doesn't that use the Cal 89 movement?
     

  4. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Hmmm... so, you would switch the colors of the subdial and running seconds hands? I guess that that makes more sense functionally, unless you really, really, need to know the very exact time... I wonder how that will look. In the middle of things right now, but I'll go on the site later to make that mockup.

    I read on the site that LVMH made Bamford the official customizer for TAG Heuer, BVLGARI, and Zenith watches. I wonder if this is a test, and whether, if successful, they'd expand it to other LVMH brands.
     

  5. mimo

    mimo Pernicious Enabler

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    As their other watch brand is Hublot, at least it wouldn't make them less classy. :blush:
     

  6. dopey

    dopey Stylish Dinosaur Dubiously Honored

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    To be clear - the big seconds hand is the chronograph function seconds hand (I assume - that's how it is on most chronos) that is red. The hands on the minute counter subdial (upper right) and hour counter subdial (upper left) would also be red. The hand on running counter subdial (bottom, with the date indicator) would stay black. So when you are using the chronograph, you look at red hands. When you are looking at the time, you look at black hands (or silver or whatever the main face hands are).

    The chronograph seconds hand is usually the big one, since that is where you need precision. The running seconds hand is in the subdial and is useful just to see the watch is running. It generally doesn’t hack so you aren’t even setting it precisely for time. If you need to track seconds, you would use the chronograph hand.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2018 at 11:30 AM

  7. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Thanks. Yeah, tbh, I am still figuring out the chrono. I have never used one. I simply think that they look cool. For sports timekeeping, I use an Timex stopwatch.

    I do find it odd that the Speedy Pro doesn't hack. Doesn't really bother me, since I always set the time a couple of minutes fast anyway, but it does seem odd.
     

  8. Dino944

    Dino944 Distinguished Member

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    Hi,

    Yes I am familiar with the Mitsukoshi Speedmaster. I think its quite handsome in that configuration. IMHO it is one of the few mods on a watch that looks good. Being in the clothing industry and seeing what it takes to go from an idea to a final product, and recognizing, some ideas just don't work out in their first iteration. This gives you and advantage over the "Average Joe" who has an idea, thinks it will be amazing when executed (and if it is to him that is what matters), sticks with that mod, but in reality it just doesn't work.

    The only company I know of that will specifically allow the modification of their watches (done by themselves of course) is Vacheron Constantin. They received quite a bit of attention when they started offering their atelier service. They will not modify a watch that a person already owns. However, a buyer can commission anything from an existing watch, but with changes to the dial and hands, to a complete 1 off. The buyer is only really limited by what they can or wish to spend. I do not know how successful the program has or has not been, but the program is I believe orchestrated through their Geneva boutique and I can imagine one will pay dearly even if it is just for a modified dial.

    Thank you your kind suggestion that I PM you regarding what my store carries, as you would love to patronize a forum member in the future. I am not in the watch industry, although perhaps I should be :wink:. I am a long time collector/consumer, and an attorney by trade. However, I do get PMs from time to time about purchasing advice, so feel free to PM me whenever you like. I don't always have the same taste as the would be buyer, but I will give my honest opinion. Cheers and thanks again!
     

  9. double00

    double00 Distinguished Member

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    cannabauss is a fun piece pair with tattoo sleeves ha. is FU aesthetic, maybe organic surficial design is the hallmark of the times? hmm.....

    also: the levi 501 didn't start out as culture, it was inert workwear that became culture - through democratization no less! maybe camus was railing against the marketing of authenticity (or appropriation ha) but certainly culture exists at least as an appreciable expression of human geography. what other term could be applied to our amalgam of ways-of-doing? in any case it is funny to see existentialism held out as the philosophical answer in a patently materialist forum. stirring the pot i guess!

    also also: as long as there is good design (and there is) there's not much reason for pessimism. simplicity, even inefficiency, is vastly underrated.
     

  10. Medwed

    Medwed Distinguished Member

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    That Milgauss with steel carving and acid etching is FANTASTIC. What a baller watch.
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2018 at 3:46 PM

  11. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    The reason that I like Omega right is is precisely because the company seems so inefficient in its design. In the Apollo series, for example, there are a lot of misses. It's a matter of tastes, of course, but I would say that there are more misses than hits, and in between, are a lot of watches that look fairly hohum. You are left wondering why you ought to buy a limited edition watch at a premium when it looks so much like the regular moonwatch.

    However, the hits. when they come, are as "timeless" as any contemporary product can be, precisely because all of the designs seemed to have originated from a place that is outside the zeitgeist. Yes, you also end up with the Apollo XVII 40th anniversary design, but the juice is worth the squeeze.

    This is in stark contrast to companies who seem to churn out uninspired moneymakers, the watch equivalent of a summer blockbuster. They will garner a large audience, and they will make a lot of money, but they are also completely formulaic and forgettable.
     

  12. Medwed

    Medwed Distinguished Member

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    Herr Beyer, what a delightful person.
     

  13. am55

    am55 Distinguished Member

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    Albert and Renaud Camus are unrelated, and have vastly different ideas, as is obvious from the quotes, no?
     

  14. LA Guy

    LA Guy Opposite Santa Staff Member Admin Moderator

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    Cliff's notes version:
    Albert Camus - French, philosopher, occasional novelist, Existentialist. Gave rise to 100 trillion annoying coffee table discussions in college. Dead.
    Renaud Camus - Living. French, cultural critic, essayist, definitely a bit of a xenophobe, in the true sense of the word - he's written extensively about French culture being replaced by migrant culture. A bit extreme left (fiscal), a bit extreme right (social issues). In my opinion, a lot of journalists have taken umbrage at the wrong things, and the writings ABOUT him seem to betray a lack of understanding of nuance. That said, definitely a controversial figure who has probably said some things about Jews, homosexuals, and a few other groups, that he probably should have said using his inside (his own head) voice. The man can write though. And this is coming from a guy whose French is subpar, if you are being generous.

    They probably have very different ideas. They probably also think (thought?) about quite different things.
     

  15. am55

    am55 Distinguished Member

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    .
     
    Last edited: Nov 9, 2018 at 6:18 PM

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