The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[once a day]

Firstly, how do they feel on you? If you like slim fit, keep thighs as is, maybe loosen up a bit around the buttock.

Looks like the back rise might be a tad too short, however this is very hard to alter, but check if it's possible.

Good luck!

Latest shirt and pants from luxire.

Any recommendations of what to improve for my next iteration?

View attachment 1102502

View attachment 1102503
Would scooping the seat further, resolve all of the horizontal wrinkling under the bottom?

 

[once a day]

would recommend you to go with the 50, if there's enough seam allowance for you to make the necessary alterations.

Generally speaking, the size grading can vary from each individual piece on Off The Rack garments, so try look at the fit rather than the number on the sizing label.

Hardest to change is the actual shoulder width, so go with the one that hugs your shoulders comfortably.

Good luck!

Hi everyone,

I would like to ask you a question. Some time ago I wrote about matching a certain navy model from SuSu. I finally ordered a larger size for comparison.

What surprised me a little was the difference in the width of the chest given by the producer and what I managed to measure.

Here, given 114 in the chest for 52 and 110 for 50. I measured and 52 looked like this.
View attachment 1102753

View attachment 1102755
View attachment 1102756
This is 52 size or 42 US

View attachment 1102758 View attachment 1102757

and it's 50 (it's already sleeves shortened by 1 cm )

In general, I have in the chest about 104 cm what would indicate 52, but in 50 I felt so far good in other SuSu models, which I do own.

I plan to go to the tailor in order to ask about back alternations. Which one would you prefer in this case.

Thanks for your hints

Hi everyone,

I would like to ask you a question. Some time ago I wrote about matching a certain navy model from SuSu. I finally ordered a larger size for comparison.

What surprised me a little was the difference in the width of the chest given by the producer and what I managed to measure.

Here, given 114 in the chest for 52 and 110 for 50. I measured and 52 looked like this.
View attachment 1102753

View attachment 1102755
View attachment 1102756
This is 52 size or 42 US

View attachment 1102758 View attachment 1102757

and it's 50 (it's already sleeves shortened by 1 cm )

In general, I have in the chest about 104 cm what would indicate 52, but in 50 I felt so far good in other SuSu models, which I do own.

I plan to go to the tailor in order to ask about back alternations. Which one would you prefer in this case.

Thanks for your hints

 

[ericjens7]

Hi everyone,

I would like to ask you a question. Some time ago I wrote about matching a certain navy model from SuSu. I finally ordered a larger size for comparison.

What surprised me a little was the difference in the width of the chest given by the producer and what I managed to measure.

Here, given 114 in the chest for 52 and 110 for 50. I measured and 52 looked like this.
View attachment 1102753

View attachment 1102755
View attachment 1102756
This is 52 size or 42 US

View attachment 1102758 View attachment 1102757

and it's 50 (it's already sleeves shortened by 1 cm )

In general, I have in the chest about 104 cm what would indicate 52, but in 50 I felt so far good in other SuSu models, which I do own.

I plan to go to the tailor in order to ask about back alternations. Which one would you prefer in this case.

Thanks for your hints

Looks like the back balance is long. You stand more erect than the coat is cut, thus creating the folds and bunching at your small of back. This excess needs to be taken out at the shoulders and requires very expert and expensive tailoring. My best advice is to return and find a new coat cut from a different maker. You will probably run into the same issue with all SuSu coats. Good luck

 

[1up]

They look very tight all around the top block to me as the front is stretched tight as well. The problem at the back is also that the top of the thigh is very tight. Can you sit down comfortably in these pants?

I would suggest all of the following, although I think the first two are most critical:

- extra room around the hips
- let out the rise at the crotch and also ease the upper thigh
- further scooping of the seat curve

Thank you for your insight - I had actually made those type of changes, this is what I requested:

1) Increase back rise at crotch by +0.65cm
2) Decrease back length +0.65cm
3) Increase at knee/calf by +1.25cm
4) Increase thigh +1.25cm
5) Increase waist below waistband by +1.25cm at front
6) Increase seat +1.25cm

I then ended up with this pair of pants:

I thought these looked worse than the first pair, and much too baggy in the rear thigh, so I reverted back to my original pattern.

 

[1up]

Firstly, how do they feel on you? If you like slim fit, keep thighs as is, maybe loosen up a bit around the buttock.

Looks like the back rise might be a tad too short, however this is very hard to alter, but check if it's possible.

Good luck!

Thank you for your reply.

They do feel snug, but generally I prefer slim fitting pants, I just don't want to look awkward if I'm walking around with ultra tight pants.

To loosen up the buttock, does that mean let the seat out? That is probably something I could alter, but for the next iteration I should also scoop the butt? I assume scooping the butt is the same as increasing the back rise?

Also - any comments on the shirt?

 

[golfnutter66]

"They do feel snug, but generally I prefer slim fitting pants, I just don't want to look awkward if I'm walking around with ultra tight pants."

The pants are simply too tight/small causing you to look awkward.

Abandon them.

A tailor could make alterations but in the end, you cant make chicken salad out of chicken ****, and that is what those pants are for you. If they are part of a suit, throw it all on Ebay and let someone else deal with it.

 

[1up]

What changes would you recommend for the next iteration then?

Do you have an example of what you would consider good fitting pants? I see pants of comparable tightness from other makers like SuitSupply. I'm aware it's not a classic look, but I don't think it's so ill-fitting in this day & age of trend.

 

[golfnutter66]

I can’t comment on where trends are going and what is best for you. But, fashion photography tends to be very ‘fashion’ forward meaning taking rather extreme measures. For example, take the suit supply photo you posted. The pant leg length is too short as are the suit jacket sleeves for the everyday office I work in. In fact, the jacket length is too short also. If you live in a very hip fashion part of the world it might work but not for most of America. Great if you are a clothing company trying to portray youth and a fashionable / hip style.

I am classic/trad (e.g. oxxford, Zegna) guy. So not the guy for where fashion is going.

Best,

 

[1up]

I appreciate your input, and your insight, but I don't think calling the pants "chicken ****" are of much help to me - especially since your idea of a proper fit constitutes a different (classic) aesthetic that perhaps isn't of interest to a younger (fashionable) aesthetic.

I was only soliciting input as to what I can do to improve the horizontal wrinkling under the back leg, and some were helpful to provide recommendations.

Please be mindful of your comments and try to invoke positivity, as this forum is to help others.

 

[golfnutter66]

I appreciate your input, and your insight, but I don't think calling the pants "chicken ****" are of much help to me - especially since your idea of a proper fit constitutes a different (classic) aesthetic that perhaps isn't of interest to a younger (fashionable) aesthetic.

I was only soliciting input as to what I can do to improve the horizontal wrinkling under the back leg, and some were helpful to provide recommendations.

Please be mindful of your comments and try to invoke positivity, as this forum is to help others.

It's one thing to be positive and another to be honest. You are soliciting publicly opinions of others.

Look, the pants don't fit you well. You know that. I think alterations won't solve your problems. You seem to have an athletic physique that could easily fit into OTR pants without what you are dealing with here. Maybe chicken **** was too harsh for you but the bottom line is the pants don't work. My opinion only.

Best,

 

[1up]

Yes, fully aware they don't fit well. I know these aren't salvageable, but they're doable for a workhorse pair of pants.

If you read through the posts, I haven't asked or suggested that I'm taking the pants for alteration - only asking for suggestions of what to change for my next iteration.

Unfortunately, OTR isn't much better. I'm a 32 waist, and even sizing up to a 33 waist (requiring a belt, or eventually being taken in at the waist) still produced the same horizontal wrinkling at the back of the leg - an example of size 33 pants from S&M.

 

[golfnutter66]

Yes, fully aware they don't fit well. I know these aren't salvageable, but they're doable for a workhorse pair of pants.

If you read through the posts, I haven't asked or suggested that I'm taking the pants for alteration - only asking for suggestions of what to change for my next iteration.

Unfortunately, OTR isn't much better. I'm a 32 waist, and even sizing up to a 33 waist (requiring a belt, or eventually being taken in at the waist) still produced the same horizontal wrinkling at the back of the leg - an example of size 33 pants from S&M.

View attachment 1103912

Just a thought, but I think slim or more fitted pants for you can only happen if they are bespoke. These pants you are wearing are too tight in the thigh and to a lesser extent in the seat. If you were wearing Canali or Zanella, would you have the same problem?

 

[lngn2]

Yes, fully aware they don't fit well. I know these aren't salvageable, but they're doable for a workhorse pair of pants.

If you read through the posts, I haven't asked or suggested that I'm taking the pants for alteration - only asking for suggestions of what to change for my next iteration.

Unfortunately, OTR isn't much better. I'm a 32 waist, and even sizing up to a 33 waist (requiring a belt, or eventually being taken in at the waist) still produced the same horizontal wrinkling at the back of the leg - an example of size 33 pants from S&M.

View attachment 1103912

Can you post a side on pic of all 3 pairs and confirm whether any of these have more than 1 back dart? Per my earlier post a front dart may well help you too - it allows more room across the front but without the extra width of a pleat. I think you've a prominent seat (as have I) which makes buying OTR a real pain. NB self fitting trousers is difficult- I got to a reasonable result after 10 rounds of drafting and making my own plus lots of help...

 

[once a day]

Howdy,

Agree completely - there's a lot of different flavors out there, and one can only opt for the options that they prefer. All the Do's and Don'ts of Menswear can be quite tiring. Our clients preferences vary heavily, and we try to guide them to get the result they're looking for, accounting for the measurements and the fabric of the garment.

Would you be comfortable shortning the pants or to putt some cuffs on them?

Yes, fully aware they don't fit well. I know these aren't salvageable, but they're doable for a workhorse pair of pants.

If you read through the posts, I haven't asked or suggested that I'm taking the pants for alteration - only asking for suggestions of what to change for my next iteration.

Unfortunately, OTR isn't much better. I'm a 32 waist, and even sizing up to a 33 waist (requiring a belt, or eventually being taken in at the waist) still produced the same horizontal wrinkling at the back of the leg - an example of size 33 pants from S&M.

View attachment 1103912

 

[1up]

Just a thought, but I think slim or more fitted pants for you can only happen if they are bespoke. These pants you are wearing are too tight in the thigh and to a lesser extent in the seat. If you were wearing Canali or Zanella, would you have the same problem?

I haven’t tried Canali or Zanella - maybe at some point in the future, if I can’t resolve a good fit with luxire. I took some new pics after wearing the garments a bit.

Luxire recommended:

For pants:
Hip: Increase by 3/8”
Thigh: increase by 1/4"
Inseam: decrease by 5/8" at the crotch.
Back rise: increase at the crotch by 1/2"

For shirt:
Cuff: decrease by 1/4”
Bicep: decrease by 1/4"
Back panel slop: increase by 1/4”

I think I agree with the pant suggestions, scooping the bottom is probably the best way to ease some of the horizontal wrinkling under the butt?

I feel like the length of the trousers at the back is maybe a touch short?

Also, I’m not sure I agree with the shirt recommendations, the cuffs feel pretty good, not sure I want to take them in anymore. Bicep reduction may be a good idea.

I think I have a bit too much fabric around the waist, and I already added darts in this iteration, but I don’t want it to be too tight?