The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[once a day]

Hey everyone, a few days ago I was reorganizing my wardrobe and in the process of moving suits around, I accidentally placed one of my suits in an awkward position, pushed up against another suit.

I did not realize this until today, so the suit was in that position for 2 days. Now, because of that, there is a crease/curve on the lapel, around where the breast pocket is.

I just wanted to know, if I leave the suit on the hanger for a few days, the lapel will straighten up and go back to normal, or would it be better for me to press it.

I've added some pictures below but they're not that clear. Thanks everyone!

View attachment 1111372 View attachment 1111373 View attachment 1111374 View attachment 1111375

Start by hanging on a solid hanger for a few days. If the lapel is high quality made (fabrics and craftsmanship), it usually straightens out quite nicely. If still not as you want it, go ahead and iron with a cotton cloth in between.

 

[boomeray]

Would love some feedbacks on this fitting, thanks in advance.

 

[BryanForrestKim]

Hello Tailors of SF:

I had the pleasure of stopping by the Kent Wang pop-up location to try on a tester suit jacket for the purposes of getting the necessary adjustments for a Made To Measure sport jacket. Aaron (what a great guy!) has already kindly given me the following feedback, and I just wanted to source a couple more opinions before I pulled the trigger:

Suggested

• Take in shoulder 0.5 cm on each side
• Adjust for shoulder slope
• Add 2.5 cm to waist at buttoning point
• Add 1 cm to chest
• Strong chest dart
• Sway back correction
• Taper lower sleeve by 1 cm
• Add 1.5 cm to length

Any additional thoughts would be appreciated!

 

[ter1413]

Hello Tailors of SF:

I just wanted to source a couple more opinions before I pulled the trigger:

• Add 1.5 cm to length

Any additional thoughts would be appreciated!

View attachment 1112501

View attachment 1112502

Huh? I can't even see your shirtsleeves as it is. Why add more length?

 

[BryanForrestKim]

Huh? I can't even see your shirtsleeves as it is. Why add more length?

Sorry, should have included more detail - I was wearing a shirt whose sleeves had shrank in the wash that day.

EDIT: Yes, 1.5 cm refers to the body length, not the sleeve length.

Beyond the sleeves, do the other adjustments sound reasonable/any other feedback.

 

[papado]

Huh? I can't even see your shirtsleeves as it is. Why add more length?

I interpreted that note to mean jacket length to be increased a touch; not sure if OP had the same assumption as well.

 

[BryanForrestKim]

I interpreted that note to mean jacket length to be increased a touch; not sure if OP had the same assumption as well.

Yes, you are right - the 1.5 cm increase is on body length, not sleeve length.

 

[Christian0314]

Hello! I bought a vintage DB college blazer for a small amt of money. I am asking for advice from my fellow SF members. Any alterations should be made by a tailor except the fact the sleeves need to be shortened.
Fit and shoulder, length?
Your feed back is much appreciated

Thank you!

 

[Aloysius16]

Where/how would a jacket be taken in around the hips/skirt to reduce an hourglass effect. Is this a very big job?

The jacket starts to get too big about half an inch above the top of the vents and flares out from there on down. The fronts also kick out too much below the fastening button.

 

[Despos]

Hello! I bought a vintage DB college blazer for a small amt of money. I am asking for advice from my fellow SF members. Any alterations should be made by a tailor except the fact the sleeves need to be shortened.
Fit and shoulder, length?
Your feed back is much appreciated View attachment 1113863
Thank you!

Jacket is at least one size too big. If you have the sleeves shortened also ask to have the sleeve opening tapered. This would help as far as the sleeves go. If you start taking the jacket in thru the body you will regret it. You have to recut everything, shoulder width, chest, etc to maintain a wearable proportion.

 

[Despos]

Where/how would a jacket be taken in around the hips/skirt to reduce an hourglass effect. Is this a very big job?

If the fronts are flaring out you have balance issues. Not wise to advise on reducing the skirt without appropriate pictures

 

[Aloysius16]

Yes, slight balance issues (front short) result in the fronts flaring out. Nothing much I can do about that, but jacket would be improved with a slimmer fit around the skirt nonetheless (I.e. if I pin the top of the each vent to take in 1/2" it looks much better). I don’t have pictures to hand, but if it was a suitable alteration, how would this be made and is it a feasible job? Would it involve recutting the vents? I spoke to a tailor (without him seeing the jacket) and he suggested he would normally take in the seams which run down from the middle of the pockets (which I struggled to understand.

 

[Despos]

Yes, slight balance issues (front short) result in the fronts flaring out. Nothing much I can do about that, but jacket would be improved with a slimmer fit around the skirt nonetheless (I.e. if I pin the top of the each vent to take in 1/2" it looks much better). I don’t have pictures to hand, but if it was a suitable alteration, how would this be made and is it a feasible job? Would it involve recutting the vents? I spoke to a tailor (without him seeing the jacket) and he suggested he would normally take in the seams which run down from the middle of the pockets (which I struggled to understand.

The balance can be adjusted by shortening the back by opening the side seams and dropping the back. Unless you have a horizontal match in a patterned cloth. He is saying he would reduce the seam where the side body is attached to the front panel. If he sews thru the pocket he has to open the pipes and remake the pocket. Time consuming and a a lot of work. He may be able to take it in from the pocket down to the hem and not touch the pocket. You can decide this by watching the grain line along the seam. If the jacket is cut with a crooked shoulder it also can cause the flare. That's why you need pictures, too many possible causes to be accurate to know the correct fix.

 

[Aloysius16]

The balance can be adjusted by shortening the back by opening the side seams and dropping the back. Unless you have a horizontal match in a patterned cloth. He is saying he would reduce the seam where the side body is attached to the front panel. If he sews thru the pocket he has to open the pipes and remake the pocket. Time consuming and a a lot of work. He may be able to take it in from the pocket down to the hem and not touch the pocket. You can decide this by watching the grain line along the seam. If the jacket is cut with a crooked shoulder it also can cause the flare. That's why you need pictures, too many possible causes to be accurate to know the correct fix.

Ok, appreciate that Chris, thanks. Will post pics when able.

 

[Christian0314]

Jacket is at least one size too big. If you have the sleeves shortened also ask to have the sleeve opening tapered. This would help as far as the sleeves go. If you start taking the jacket in thru the body you will regret it. You have to recut everything, shoulder width, chest, etc to maintain a wearable proportion.

Thank you for your reply. I think i will ask my tailor to shorten and taper the sleeves plus shorten the jacket length a little bit. Would it be a lot of work if i ask him to shorten the jacket length a bit?
I am quite comfortable with the body fit, i have a very broad chest which gives me headache when buying RTW. So i tend to size up atleast 1 size most of the time and alter the sleeves. If i get my right size which is Eu48 or US38 my suit lapel will pop out and create this unwanted break and opening around chest area.
I can't have bespoke evertime, madame will kill me