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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

whorishconsumer

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I recently had a couple pairs of pants let out by a tailor and have subsequently found that both pair twist considerably when worn, made more apparent by the front crease in each. I performed a sanity check with a newly-purchased pair as the control and they do not twist in the least.

My question, then, is: what in the process of tailoring caused this? My best guess is unevenness between the two sides of the inseam or outseam. Examining both pair, there is indeed some inconsistency, although nothing shocking.

IMG_2491.jpg


This continues up the leg, at varying degrees of minor mismatch.

I'm mainly trying to gauge whether the tailor performed a poor job (the fit is much improved in each and the twisting is the only outward unsightliness), or if this is par for the course in tailoring, in which case I shall avoid having such alterations done in future.

Thanks in advance.
 

lngn2

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I recently had a couple pairs of pants let out by a tailor and have subsequently found that both pair twist considerably when worn, made more apparent by the front crease in each. I performed a sanity check with a newly-purchased pair as the control and they do not twist in the least.

My question, then, is: what in the process of tailoring caused this? My best guess is unevenness between the two sides of the inseam or outseam. Examining both pair, there is indeed some inconsistency, although nothing shocking.

View attachment 1099710

This continues up the leg, at varying degrees of minor mismatch.

I'm mainly trying to gauge whether the tailor performed a poor job (the fit is much improved in each and the twisting is the only outward unsightliness), or if this is par for the course in tailoring, in which case I shall avoid having such alterations done in future.

Thanks in advance.

Let out in the seat or elsewhere? A full length pic would be helpful, as would an image of them on!
 

ter1413

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I recently had a couple pairs of pants let out by a tailor and have subsequently found that both pair twist considerably when worn, made more apparent by the front crease in each. I performed a sanity check with a newly-purchased pair as the control and they do not twist in the least.

My question, then, is: what in the process of tailoring caused this? My best guess is unevenness between the two sides of the inseam or outseam. Examining both pair, there is indeed some inconsistency, although nothing shocking.

View attachment 1099710

This continues up the leg, at varying degrees of minor mismatch.

I'm mainly trying to gauge whether the tailor performed a poor job (the fit is much improved in each and the twisting is the only outward unsightliness), or if this is par for the course in tailoring, in which case I shall avoid having such alterations done in future.

Thanks in advance.


Put on pants. Take pics. Post pics. Await feedback.
 

CaptainCrunchy

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OCBD1.jpg

OCBD2.jpg

OCBD3.jpg


1. Can someone tell me what exactly is wrong with my OCBD? It's a Brooks Brothers Regent Fit OCBD that I had the bottom hemmed so it can be worn untucked for more information. 2. Can it be fixed by a tailor? 3. If I'm ordering a MTM shirt based on this shirt's measurements, what measurement should I change and by how much to fix it?
 

whorishconsumer

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Let out in the seat or elsewhere? A full length pic would be helpful, as would an image of them on!

Put on pants. Take pics. Post pics. Await feedback.

Both pair were let out in legs and slightly in the seat, one pair was also let out slightly in the waist.

Unfortunately, of the two offending pairs, one is back at that tailor for lengthening and the other (pictured above and again below) I had the crease ironed out of, so the twist is not very evident (which is something). The tailor did propose that it was the snugness of these two pair in the upper area, which are moreso than the non-offending, brand-new pair.

Here's a fuller-length photo of the inseam of the right leg:

DE248DC6-CBF6-46AE-9C98-971D4E9340CE.jpeg


And the outseam of the right leg:

CD97C6DE-6368-4F17-9A82-36636FB15F60.jpeg
 

rusty18

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So I took these pics all excited to get rave reviews after looking at my new polo coat in the mirror—but now I think I look like a sack of potatoes. Not sure if it’s me, the coat, or a combo. This is right out of the box. Have a rather thick Zegna heritage flannel SC underneath (made by one of my favorite small tailoring operations on the Lower east side of manhattan).
Shoulders feel good—seems to be a lot of extra fabric in the chest though. The pic from the front has the belt down correctly in back, btw.
Should I get this tailored or return? It’s a beautiful fabric btw from Spier and McKay.


A6376F81-C244-462C-A4F4-CF7C2FD58B56.jpeg
25475B05-7AE5-40D4-B8AC-55A1D26CDDAC.jpeg
27DD9D31-D886-46EF-A790-0CCD6B9A29DD.jpeg
 

lngn2

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Both pair were let out in legs and slightly in the seat, one pair was also let out slightly in the waist.

Unfortunately, of the two offending pairs, one is back at that tailor for lengthening and the other (pictured above and again below) I had the crease ironed out of, so the twist is not very evident (which is something). The tailor did propose that it was the snugness of these two pair in the upper area, which are moreso than the non-offending, brand-new pair.

Here's a fuller-length photo of the inseam of the right leg:

View attachment 1100206

And the outseam of the right leg:

View attachment 1100207

Was the crease moved after the alteration I wonder?
 

cheekapena

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Hello SF!

I am currently altering a pair of trousers for my brother. In short, I need to take the waist in ~3" (1.5" on each side) and taper the legs from approximately thigh down, the widest point of the taper being 1 1/8" on each side.

Now, I realize the end result will not be perfect and the amount that I need to take in at the waist will already be problematic but is there a good way or technique to use that will give me the best end result?

In the past I've just altered each as standard and dealt with the uneven crease (despite hours of ironing) and possible pocket-flare. However, considering that this is not my garment, I'd like to put in more effort to create a better product.

ALSO, I have had professional tailors taper my pants before and some have actually been able to take more in from the back of the leg rather than the front. Are there any advantages to doing this? Is there any material out there with information on how to accomplish this?

Thank you very much, everyone, for your time and help. Look forward to hearing from ya'll soon!

Best,
Kapena
 

whorishconsumer

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Was the crease moved after the alteration I wonder?

I did so myself, through multiple attempts, before then bringing it to be re-pressed. With the newly-set crease, they are centered when I put them on, but after having sat for some time they are pretty much twisted the rest of the day.
 

DFWWingnut

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View attachment 1100153
View attachment 1100154
View attachment 1100155

1. Can someone tell me what exactly is wrong with my OCBD? It's a Brooks Brothers Regent Fit OCBD that I had the bottom hemmed so it can be worn untucked for more information. 2. Can it be fixed by a tailor? 3. If I'm ordering a MTM shirt based on this shirt's measurements, what measurement should I change and by how much to fix it?

I'm not a pro but I think you need to make the bottom (hip) wider.
 

once a day

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We just reworked our MTM suit service, aiming to get more online traction/user confidence by adding a fitting garment to our suits, and a few more measurements. For shirts, it's a bit more straightforward and we recognize that the three posture photos are enough to get a great fit, along with your measurements. Feel free DM:ing us for more info.

View attachment 1100153
View attachment 1100154
View attachment 1100155

1. Can someone tell me what exactly is wrong with my OCBD? It's a Brooks Brothers Regent Fit OCBD that I had the bottom hemmed so it can be worn untucked for more information. 2. Can it be fixed by a tailor? 3. If I'm ordering a MTM shirt based on this shirt's measurements, what measurement should I change and by how much to fix it?
 

1up

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Latest shirt and pants from luxire.

Any recommendations of what to improve for my next iteration?

upload_2019-1-7_18-49-4.jpeg


upload_2019-1-7_18-49-21.jpeg

Would scooping the seat further, resolve all of the horizontal wrinkling under the bottom?
 

Aloysius16

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Latest shirt and pants from luxire.

Any recommendations of what to improve for my next iteration?

View attachment 1102502

View attachment 1102503
Would scooping the seat further, resolve all of the horizontal wrinkling under the bottom?
They look very tight all around the top block to me as the front is stretched tight as well. The problem at the back is also that the top of the thigh is very tight. Can you sit down comfortably in these pants?

I would suggest all of the following, although I think the first two are most critical:

- extra room around the hips
- let out the rise at the crotch and also ease the upper thigh
- further scooping of the seat curve
 

Ladislav

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Hi everyone,

I would like to ask you a question. Some time ago I wrote about matching a certain navy model from SuSu. I finally ordered a larger size for comparison.

What surprised me a little was the difference in the width of the chest given by the producer and what I managed to measure.

Here, given 114 in the chest for 52 and 110 for 50. I measured and 52 looked like this.
IMG_6392.JPG


IMG_3251.jpg

IMG_7136.JPG

This is 52 size or 42 US

IMG_3249.jpg
IMG_1892.JPG


and it's 50 (it's already sleeves shortened by 1 cm )

In general, I have in the chest about 104 cm what would indicate 52, but in 50 I felt so far good in other SuSu models, which I do own.

I plan to go to the tailor in order to ask about back alternations. Which one would you prefer in this case.

Thanks for your hints
 

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