The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[gyasih]

@Despos, your eye is killer!

 

[RichardHarrow]

I could use some honest feedback on this SuitSupply suit (36R Navy Blue Napoli cut). The size advisor had recommended a 34R which was just ridiculously small. The 36R is a pretty tight fit on me still. I feel pretty restricted overall and it just doesn't feel "comfortable".I know many other users have complained how slim the pants (overly) and that's the case with these pants on me too. I literally feel as if I do any sort of squat, the bastards are going to rip easily.

I'm shopping for my very first suit, so any brutal advice is great appreciated! All I really want is just a traditional Navy Blue suit. I'll probably be checking out BB soon and see how their stuff fits on me.

Here's the pictures, bunching up on lower back is probably from the vents still being sewn up.

What I'm debating is if I should return the 36R and try jumping up to a 38R (maybe 38L too? ). I had an old school tailor measure me a few months back and he told me I was a 38L.Or should I just not even deal with it and move on to some other suit?

So thanks for any advice or suggestions. I'm about 5"11 and 160 lbs at the moment with a 32in waist. For a pretty slim athletic guy my thighs are pretty big as I weight train regularly.

 

[Pendulum]



I could use some honest feedback on this SuitSupply suit (36R Navy Blue Napoli cut). The size advisor had recommended a 34R which was just ridiculously small. The 36R is a pretty tight fit on me still. I know many other users have complained how slim the pants (overly) and that's the case with these pants on me too.

I'm shopping for my very first suit, so any brutal advice is great appreciated! All I really want is just a traditional Navy Blue suit. I'll probably be checking out BB soon and see how their stuff fits on me.

Here's the pictures, bunching up on lower back is probably from the vents still being sewn up.

What I'm debating is if I should return the 36R and try jumping up to a 38R (maybe 38L too? ). I had an old school tailor measure me a few months back and he told me I was a 38L.Or should I just not even deal with it and move on to some other suit?

So thanks for any advice or suggestions. I'm about 5"11 and 160 lbs at the moment with a 32in waist. For a pretty slim athletic guy my thighs are pretty big as I weight train regularly.

I'd say you need to go up a size, certainly looks a little short, sleeves are too, and too tight in the arms? Pants will be pretty tight as they will be a 30" waist, so you'll get more room in the 38R/L also. Don't let the guy in the store push you into buying something that you're not comfortable with, as they have a tendency to go with uber tight fitting stuff which is not particularly practical.

 

[DavideMiguel85]



The jacket has a lot of shape so it looks like a good fit but is a size too big for you and feels loose. The shape is on that fine line where any reduction at the waist will look exaggerated and overdone. The silhouette and styling are of a traditional cut and to shape the jacket more would be incongruent with the nature of the cut.
You could have the jacket reduced without adding more shape. The blades can be taken in  but to do so properly the blade needs to be reduced on the back part only and taken in all the way to the shoulder. If you take in the side body the armhole gets deeper and distorts the armhole shape, creates drag and can look big but feel tight.
The idea is to reduce the size to fit closer to the body and not increase the shaping. You need someone who understands this and is talented in keeping the jacket proportions. If the jacket is taken in at the waist only it will make the blades look even bigger and the jacket starts to look sloppy. If you only reduce the blade then you change the proportion of chest to waist to seat and the upper body will look more narrow the the hip. If the workmanship of the adjustment isn't well executed you will have a mess. 
Go for it and see what happens. Will make an interesting before/after thread.

Thank you for taking the time to look at that and understand what I meant . I do not want to add more 'shape' or take in the waist. I'm happy with the shape, but it is a touch more than my other jackets too. What you speak of, an overall reduction so it fits closer to the body is what I had in mind. However, i do not want to be left with a 'mess'. I'd rather it be 'comfortable' and slightly large for the time being than destroy it. I really don't know if I'd trust my guy with something like what you describe. What part do you mean when you refer to the 'blade' ? I'll keep this all in mind should I find someone suitable in the future, thanks again.

 

[artur03]

I was looking for a suit for my wedding and finally decided to go with MTM.
Most RTW did not fit properly (my right shoulder is a bit lower than the left one resulting with creases under the armpit).

I have found a retailer where the base pattern (50R) fitted pretty well (first set of photos).

After one month I got my suit and my general impression was that it fits worse than the base (second set of photos).

They have made several adjustments and 2 weeks later had the second fitting.
My impression was that the adjustments resulted in even worse fit (third set of photos).
The retailer proposed to introduce a new tailor to perform additional adjustments and scheduled a meeting with him to Tuesday.

Please let me know what do you think of both the jacket and the trousers. Maybe I am exaggerating?
What adjustments should be made?
Will the adjustments really help? Or should I start looking for another suit?

There are 6 weeks left till my wedding and I'm pretty stressed.
Thank you very much in advance!

I am very sorry for bad photo quality, I found this thread after all the photos were taken.

Base pattern (50R)




First fitting:





Second fitting (after adjustments):

 

[ter1413]

^^

Get a new tailor.

 

[artur03]

^^

Get a new tailor.

So no chances of saving this suit?

 

[DavideMiguel85]



So no chances of saving this suit?

*I am not an expert* but I'd be seriously concerned with their abilities if that's what they'd done after two rounds of alterations. The first standard OTR fit was much better. Are you actually speaking directly to the tailor? Or is the shop employing an alterations person? What he they're incompetent or not, it can often be a huge communication all issue if it's just an assistant making notes. If you're face to face with the tailor, I think it might be time to walk away.

Honestly, don't stress. Find something that fits like the original you have, then go get it tweaked a little. It's good to care but there is so much more to a wedding....

 

[Despos]

I was looking for a suit for my wedding and finally decided to go with MTM.
Most RTW did not fit properly (my right shoulder is a bit lower than the left one resulting with creases under the armpit).

I have found a retailer where the base pattern (50R) fitted pretty well (first set of photos).

After one month I got my suit and my general impression was that it fits worse than the base (second set of photos).

They have made several adjustments and 2 weeks later had the second fitting.
My impression was that the adjustments resulted in even worse fit (third set of photos).
The retailer proposed to introduce a new tailor to perform additional adjustments and scheduled a meeting with him to Tuesday.

Please let me know what do you think of both the jacket and the trousers. Maybe I am exaggerating?
What adjustments should be made?
Will the adjustments really help? Or should I start looking for another suit?

There are 6 weeks left till my wedding and I'm pretty stressed.
Thank you very much in advance!

I am very sorry for bad photo quality, I found this thread after all the photos were taken.

They tried too hard but didn't make the correct adjustments and the result is the suit is over fitted and thus poorly fitted.

You do have a low right shoulder but the counter part to this is a prominent left shoulder blade. In the first picture of the RTW jacket there isn't any visible breaking wrinkles relating to the low shoulder. The left shoulder needs an adjustment for the larger prominent blade and the right side adjusted for the low shoulder

The chest of the RTW jacket fits much better although it isn't perfect as the chest is too small. That's why the line of the lapels is shaped like this ( ) instead of this \ /. After the alterations on the MTM jacket, it has become unacceptable. I don't see how they can make it better. The sizing of the chest is a problem in the pattern.

The button position is a bit high on you and contributes to the chest issues.

Your right hip is higher than the left and the trouser legs don't hang well. This is causing the right pleat to pull open more than the left and all the wrinkles in the trouser legs. The crease of the right leg hangs straighter like this, I, but the left leg has a crease line that hangs like this (

These are all pretty straight forward adjustments if you have a fitter who see this, knows how to correct for these issues and can communicate it to the maker. If the maker is adjusting by utilizing computer programs it may not be something their systems can handle.

The good news is you may be better served by altering a RTW garment.

Best to know what your fitting issues are so you can recognize a competent fitter and ask up front if their MTM program can execute the necessary adjustments. MTM makers vary as to how much pattern manipulation is possible.

 

[DThomas]

Thank you all for the help, I'm talking with tailors and see if there is anyone confident enough. If I make alternation I'll post some after pictures. Thanks again.

 

[jcmeyer]



Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

I could use some honest feedback on this SuitSupply suit (36R Navy Blue Napoli cut). The size advisor had recommended a 34R which was just ridiculously small. The 36R is a pretty tight fit on me still. I feel pretty restricted overall and it just doesn't feel "comfortable".I know many other users have complained how slim the pants (overly) and that's the case with these pants on me too. I literally feel as if I do any sort of squat, the bastards are going to rip easily. I'm shopping for my very first suit, so any brutal advice is great appreciated! All I really want is just a traditional Navy Blue suit. I'll probably be checking out BB soon and see how their stuff fits on me. Here's the pictures, bunching up on lower back is probably from the vents still being sewn up.

What I'm debating is if I should return the 36R and try jumping up to a 38R (maybe 38L too? ). I had an old school tailor measure me a few months back and he told me I was a 38L.Or should I just not even deal with it and move on to some other suit?

Spoiler: Warning: Spoiler!

So thanks for any advice or suggestions. I'm about 5"11 and 160 lbs at the moment with a 32in waist. For a pretty slim athletic guy my thighs are pretty big as I weight train regularly.

I'd say you need to go up a size, certainly looks a little short, sleeves are too, and too tight in the arms? Pants will be pretty tight as they will be a 30" waist, so you'll get more room in the 38R/L also. Don't let the guy in the store push you into buying something that you're not comfortable with, as they have a tendency to go with uber tight fitting stuff which is not particularly practical.

+1 Definitely size up. Everything here is too tight/small/short - looks like the jacket could reasonably be like 2" longer.

 

[hkp2k]

Hi all,

I picked up this Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald Navy Sport Jacket and would appreciate any comments on the fit and recommendations for my tailor. I think that it seems to fit pretty well overall, but I am concerned about some dimples that appear under the shoulder when I even slightly raise my arm to the side. Thanks!

 

[PSNY]

Hi all,

I picked up this Brooks Brothers Fitzgerald Navy Sport Jacket and would appreciate any comments on the fit and recommendations for my tailor. I think that it seems to fit pretty well overall, but I am concerned about some dimples that appear under the shoulder when I even slightly raise my arm to the side. Thanks!

Sleeves look slightly long and the waist could use some trimming.

 

[DjangoV]

Hi all,

Haven’t been on for a while due to job changes and getting my MSc, but back again nonetheless.

Received a db navy chalkstripe suit from SuSu yesterday. Although the fit is very decent for an OTR (imho that is). I feel the jacket is a bit short (sleeves seem fine though). This is my first db however, so it could just be different from my accustomed sb models. If anyone could enlighten me on the following questions it would be much appreciated:

1. Is the jacket too short?
2. Which alterations should/could be done? (other than obviously needed hemming of trousers)
3. Which measurements (if any) seem off (for future web orders)?

Of course any other critiques and comments are more than welcome also.

 

[Mozartkugeln]

Hi, everyone!

Recently, I bought a DB suit and I got a problem.







As you can see, the front of the jacket looks fine. Even shoulders look great. But the backside of the jacket looks just terrible. I don't know what cause the dimples. People says that It because the jacket is too big for me, but I don't feel that way.

Is there any solution to remove those dimples? If it could be done with alteration, please give me a light.
Thank you all!