The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Andrews1980]

Can I get opinions on the fit of this jacket please? View attachment 2051097 View attachment 2051205 View attachment 2051207

Slightly out of balance, but not far off. Try it without the roll neck and see.

Also i often question if people stand so erect when there isn't a camera involved.

 

[plyonsla]

Best to post front, back and side picture as the issue is not always where you think.

The neck circle does look a tad tight to me, but hard to tell with single picture. Also looks a straight neck point.

Posy all the pics and you'll stand a chance.

BTW, any reason you haven't been back to the Savile Row tailor and shown it to him instead?

Thank you. Here is the back.

 

[Peak and Pine]

My local alterationist insisted that sleeves should finish at an angle to shirts. She's not wrong per se, some people like that, but I think it looks cheap.

Interesting, how so?

 

[gimpwiz]

Interesting, how so?

Nothing more than an opinion. I think jacket sleeves cut not parallel to shirt sleeve looks cheap because ... I don't like it I suppose and it seems more like an obvious mistake or oversight than design choice. I am not claiming I am in any way objectively correct, just opining.

 

[hysteria]

Hi there,
I'd appreciate it if you're able to provide some feedback on this fit and modifications for my next order. I've added my own thoughts, but I could be wrong.

Dugdale Flannel Trousers

• Overall, good fit, and comfortable
• Length is perfect
• Room around the hip and thighs is good
• It looks to me like the knees are a bit too slim? Hence the break in the lines? Perhaps we should increase it by 1cm for future orders?
• Rise is great overall, I like where the pants sit, but I wonder if a slight increase in the back rise compare to the front would help at all with the posterior fit?
• From the side-profile shots, you can see some wrinkling near the thighs at the back and some wrinkling just be low the waist. I wonder if this is due to a combination of the back rise and width? Perhaps adding slightly more volume to the thigh would help? I’m not sure.
• I think the pattern around the buttocks and hip is pretty good as there doesn’t appear to be any wrinkling there, but I’m open to feedback

 

[tmsgks]

Hi everyone,

What is wrong with this back, in your opinion?

(This is a Ring Jacket model 253, in size 46; purchased when i was still "in between sizes".
I have now discovered that i'm a solid 48 in most cases)

- Is the back of the jacket simply too tight?
- What causes all these wrinkles?
- Should've gone for the next size (48) ?

Thank you!!

 

[tmsgks]

Ps: the front is perfectly fine.

 

[vim147]

Can anyone advise me how to buy a sports jacket second hand on eBay.

Next year in summer I am attending a wedding and need an outfit. I rarely wear formal so I don't want to spend too much.

I already have a nice pair of white'ish chinos, Brogues, Shirt and tie. So I just want to add a jacket either in navy or grey.

I tried some jackets on in a suit shop but some I found that some gave me "shoulder divots".
As buying used on eBay doesn't normally have a returns, I want to make sure I get the nearest fitting (38R chest) jacket and then have alterations done.

What should I be asking the selling in regards to sizing ?

 

[ppk]

I have bought a few (5) on eBay. The key is to understand your measurements:
Shoulder-to-shoulder
Pit-to-pit
Waist
Shoulder-to-sleeve
Length (collar-base to rear hem)

Get these from a suit that fits you well.

Most good sellers will have these measurements either in a picture or the description. Compare them carefully. Also, many sellers do take returns.

I have gorilla arms, and narrow shoulders. I had to extend the sleeves and narrow the waist on most of them. One that I bought as slim fit, fit my waist perfectly.

Good luck. There's a lot of good stuff out there.

 

[gimpwiz]

Hi everyone,

What is wrong with this back, in your opinion?

(This is a Ring Jacket model 253, in size 46; purchased when i was still "in between sizes".
I have now discovered that i'm a solid 48 in most cases)

- Is the back of the jacket simply too tight?
- What causes all these wrinkles?
- Should've gone for the next size (48) ?

Thank you!!

View attachment 2062317

It is too tight across the shoulder blades. I think one of our resident experts Despos would say "baste in more fullness in the upper back" or something like that, we had a long discussion on it not too long ago here, but IIRC what it means is that a tailor can let out the back seam slightly near the top, then use an iron to fix the resulting wrinkles, but I am not a tailor so I think you should bring it to one.

I am not a huge fan of the wrinkles around your armholes though. I am not entirely sure what can be done about that if anything.

 

[gimpwiz]

Can anyone advise me how to buy a sports jacket second hand on eBay.

Next year in summer I am attending a wedding and need an outfit. I rarely wear formal so I don't want to spend too much.

I already have a nice pair of white'ish chinos, Brogues, Shirt and tie. So I just want to add a jacket either in navy or grey.

I tried some jackets on in a suit shop but some I found that some gave me "shoulder divots".
As buying used on eBay doesn't normally have a returns, I want to make sure I get the nearest fitting (38R chest) jacket and then have alterations done.

What should I be asking the selling in regards to sizing ?

Key information needed: do you own a jacket that fits well? Have you tried on, in store, jackets that fit well? If so, you need to measure what fits well to figure out at least the basics mentioned by @ppk. Armed with that, your success buying online might be as high as 50% (at first, you get better after a number of failures; read: school fees.) Buying stuff online with good measurements is a crapshoot, especially at first.

Buying stuff online without good measurements is near impossible. You would end up just buying a half dozen 38R jackets, tailoring the best one or two if you're lucky, and selling the rest. A lot of time and money. Much better to find a good fitting jacket in person and measure it.

Shoulder divots are usually caused, as covered extensively on this forum, by armholes that are the wrong size for your arms. Your arms stretch the armholes in ways they weren't designed to go, that pulls the fabric around your shoulders and causes divoting. Imagine pushing a larger circle through a slightly smaller, flexible circle, at orthogonal angles, right? The smaller one ovals. That likely means you are putting on jackets that have too small a shoulder, too small a chest, or too high an armhole, or a combination of the above. Remember that 38R is a number and a letter that attempts to describe a complex three-dimensional garment made up of multiple layers of fabric, interlining/canvassing/fusing, liner, etc, that have been shaped in different ways and stitched together. In other words, one 38R jacket can be wildly different in fit from another.

 

[Lint007]

I can't tell if I just have body dismorphic disorder lately or if I really just look weird in these clothes and need to fit my jacket better to my proportions. What do you all think?

 

[alfredt]

I can't tell if I just have body dismorphic disorder lately or if I really just look weird in these clothes and need to fit my jacket better to my proportions. What do you all think?

There's certainly room for improvement and I'll let others who are more knowledgeable tell you what specifically they think you need. However, I know what it's like to fret over details and feel insecure in your clothing and just would like to say this is still better than the far majority of jacket fits I see on a day-to-day basis so don't let it get to you too much.

 

[Timmers]

I can't tell if I just have body dismorphic disorder lately or if I really just look weird in these clothes and need to fit my jacket better to my proportions. What do you all think?

I think you would benefit massively from a more structured coat. The jacket's imbalanced left/right panels seem to be exacerbated by a sloping right shoulder (noted by the sleeve length discrepancy and 'sag' below the front left chest). This is common and can be enhanced with a structured shoulder line. This may be difficult with RTW, though.

 

[jcep]

Hi All,

I’m trying to get a Bridge Coat from Private White VC and my size (M/4/40R) fits too snug but the size up (5/L/42R) fits well everywhere but the neck, where I get major collar gap (particularly when I raise my arms).

I’m trying to determine if I’d have better luck tailoring the size L or trying to do a virtual MTM order through PWVC. I’d happily do the latter but am leaning to doing the former because I have never done virtual MTM and am not informed enough to provide them with much guidance on the changes I’d like to make.

Would any of you be able to offer any thoughts? Should I go MTM? If so is there any guidance you’d provide PWVC on the custom order? I’ve included below the MTM measurements that PWVC would request for the order in case helpful.