The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[george325]

I'll let people with more experience weigh in on the jacket, but will tell you leave the taper on the pants alone and enjoy being able to bend your knees when sitting down (or any other situation where you might need to bend your knees) without feeling like you might blow out the knees of your trousers because they're tapered so slim. At least that's been my experience with S and M pants.

I have another pair S&M trousers in the same size and fit but these fit completely different. The others required no alterations besides pant length whereas these I needed to take in the seat and still find the taper to be non-existent. However I have read about inconsistency with their sizing.

 

[archie824]

How long should the cuff show on a french cuff with a Tuxedo? I feel like if I am hanging my arms straight down, it's showing about 1/2", but it disappears as soon as I move my arms around. Should I aim for longer sleeve so the sleeve doesn't pull up as I am moving around?

 

[WoolyLamb]

Like to get some opinions. I feel like I am in between size 40 and 42 and potentially regular vs long for SM Neo Cut sport coats. Not sure if I should be sizing up in either category. I would need sleeve alterations regardless and have a longer torso for my height so this has been a struggle for me to keep a balanced silhouette.

The green jacket is 42L and the Oatmeal is 40R.

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]

Like to get some opinions. I feel like I am in between size 40 and 42 and potentially regular vs long for SM Neo Cut sport coats. Not sure if I should be sizing up in either category. I would need sleeve alterations regardless and have a longer torso for my height so this has been a struggle for me to keep a balanced silhouette.

The green jacket is 42L and the Oatmeal is 40R.

To me, the L looks too long in the sleeves to get tailored--needs to be reduced four inches or so. The L's jacket length is longer than the current fashions, but not bad. The R is for me a tad short in the front jacket length, but nothing that's out of whack with today's fashions. Me, I'd be fine with the R's length. In the 42, I see too much fullness across the upper back, and also in the front waist. In the 40, back waist is too suppressed. That could be let out. But I think also the 40 is not covering enough of your chest. See how the left lapel is bowing out, away from your shirt's left collar point? Despos commented on this problem in this thread's early pages. It's common with the current slim fit fashion. Sadly, not very correctable. You could just eat it, as the front waist, sleeves, and upper back look pretty good to me. And just get the back waist let out a bit. But I'd like to see how a 41 looks on you. It's a pity they don't offer that size in their RTW.

If you go the MTO 41 route, it looks the Contemporary-Neapolitan Fits adds .8 inches to the chest over the 40. Sounds about right. You can also correct for the dropped left shoulder, and lengthen the jacket a bit. The 41 C-N adds .8 to the waist over the 40. Not sure whether that's too much. You want more cloth in the back waist--but not in the front, I think. Maybe just stick with something closer to the 40R waist measure, and let out the back waist. Those who've done it might know. And if you work with a good tailor, you could ask their advice.

 

[WoolyLamb]

To me, the L looks too long in the sleeves to get tailored--needs to be reduced four inches or so. The L's jacket length is longer than the current fashions, but not bad. The R is for me a tad short in the front jacket length, but nothing that's out of whack with today's fashions. Me, I'd be fine with the R's length. In the 42, I see too much fullness across the upper back, and also in the front waist. In the 40, back waist is too suppressed. That could be let out. But I think also the 40 is not covering enough of your chest. See how the left lapel is bowing out, away from your shirt's left collar point? Despos commented on this problem in this thread's early pages. It's common with the current slim fit fashion. Sadly, not very correctable. You could just eat it, as the front waist, sleeves, and upper back look pretty good to me. And just get the back waist let out a bit. But I'd like to see how a 41 looks on you. It's a pity they don't offer that size in their RTW.

If you go the MTO 41 route, it looks the Contemporary-Neapolitan Fits adds .8 inches to the chest over the 40. Sounds about right. You can also correct for the dropped left shoulder, and lengthen the jacket a bit. The 41 C-N adds .8 to the waist over the 40. Not sure whether that's too much. You want more cloth in the back waist--but not in the front, I think. Maybe just stick with something closer to the 40R waist measure, and let out the back waist. Those who've done it might know. And if you work with a good tailor, you could ask their advice.

I was consider going 42 slim after I saw my photos. It is a 40.2 waist vs the 39.00 of 40 contemporary.

I have some tightness in my right shoulder from time to time. It is a mobility issue that evens out a good bit with regular stretch work. If I do still have a dropped left shoulder I barely notice it. Looking forward to others thoughts as well

 

[Testudo_Aubreii]

I was consider going 42 slim after I saw my photos. It is a 40.2 waist vs the 39.00 of 40 contemporary.

I have some tightness in my right shoulder from time to time. It is a mobility issue that evens out a good bit with regular stretch work. If I do still have a dropped left shoulder I barely notice it. Looking forward to others thoughts as well

Yes, definitely worth trying 42 Slim, just to triangulate.

Surprisingly, 42 Slim has the same chest measure as 42 Contemporary. Adds 1.6in to the 40C chest. You may well be a 41C. Anyway, worth trying 42 Slim before doing MTO.

(I think it's your left shoulder that's dropped. A common problem that doesn't affect your shoulder's mobility. I have a dropped right.)

 

[jj02138]

Sorry for the low quality picture. I have purchased this jacket which should be a 3 roll 2, but the lapel barely rolls over the 3rd buttonhole when unbuttoned. I would like the lapel to roll further down and appear longer. I understand this alteration requires "shortening the collar". What does this mean exactly? At the end of the day, will the notch (not sure that is the name) of the collar where it joins the lapel be smaller? Thanks for the explanation.

 

[Roger Kearey]

Sorry for the low quality picture. I have purchased this jacket which should be a 3 roll 2, but the lapel barely rolls over the 3rd buttonhole when unbuttoned. I would like the lapel to roll further down and appear longer. I understand this alteration requires "shortening the collar". What does this mean exactly? At the end of the day, will the notch (not sure that is the name) of the collar where it joins the lapel be smaller? Thanks for the explanation.

View attachment 2032357

What it says on the tin. It means to shorten the length of the collar, which will allow the lapel to roll lower.

If you gently pull the lapel from the notch up, you’ll see the lapel roll lower down the coat which is the effect of taking some length from the collar.

 

[jj02138]

What it says on the tin. It means to shorten the length of the collar, which will allow the lapel to roll lower.

If you gently pull the lapel from the notch up, you’ll see the lapel roll lower down the coat which is the effect of taking some length from the collar.

Thanks for the explanation. This alteration will change the proportions of the collar, no? I'm not sure what the edge/corner of the collar is called, but that would reduce in size?

Is it a doable alteration for a competent tailor, or better to walk away?

 

[Roger Kearey]

Thanks for the explanation. This alteration will change the proportions of the collar, no? I'm not sure what the edge/corner of the collar is called, but that would reduce in size?

Is it a doable alteration for a competent tailor, or better to walk away?

you shouldn’t lose much or any of the proportions of the collar if done nicely. Or any that would be noticeable but there are competent tailors and competent tailors.

Also depends how that area is put together. I don’t have experience with RTW or MTM but it should be ok as it will be removing rather than adding.

You can also be a little naughty and quick fix it by pressing the breakline to where you want it but it won’t stay like that and may affect the fit around the neck.

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

Hi all. I posted my first fit photos of this recent Johnathan Behr suit in the Ongoing Bespoke thread and got some good honest feedback there. Since then, I had a couple of alterations and adjustments done and figured I'd share some new photos here to get some ideas for getting this suit looking a little better in terms of fit. This was my first suit from Johnathan Behr.

For this suit, I was looking for something leaning more on the British cut side of things with some structure and conservative details. I know that look isn't for everyone but I'd love feedback nonetheless.

Things that bother me:

• The jacket length is a hair short for my taste but I assume there's nothing I can do about that.
• The jacket lower quarters are more closed than I'd prefer - again, I'm not sure I can do anything about that.
• Trousers aren't hanging as cleanly as I'd like - maybe due to a slightly lightweight fabric?
• The shoulders seem a little too padded, square and uneven/unnatural.
• The shoulder width is probably a hair too wide - slight divots on the upper arm.
• The back isn't very clean behind the shoulders and in the lower back.
• Trouser length might seem short due to being pulled too high by my suspenders. And, I think my left leg was hung up on my sock and I didn't notice. I'm going to play with that a bit before forming a solid opinion.

Please excuse the questionable photo quality.

 

[jonathanS]

Hi all. I posted my first fit photos of this recent Johnathan Behr suit in the Ongoing Bespoke thread and got some good honest feedback there. Since then, I had a couple of alterations and adjustments done and figured I'd share some new photos here to get some ideas for getting this suit looking a little better in terms of fit.

For this suit, I was looking for something leaning more on the British cut side of things with some structure and conservative details. I know that look isn't for everyone but I'd love feedback nonetheless.

Things that bother me:

• The jacket length is a hair short for my taste but I assume there's nothing I can do about that.
• The jacket lower quarters are more closed than I'd prefer - again, I'm not sure I can do anything about that.
• Trousers aren't hanging as cleanly as I'd like - maybe due to a slightly lightweight fabric?
• The shoulders seem a little too padded, square and uneven/unnatural.
• The shoulder width is probably a hair too wide - slight divots on the upper arm.
• The back isn't very clean behind the shoulders and in the lower back.
• Trouser length might seem short due to being pulled too high by my suspenders. And, I think my left leg was hung up on my sock and I didn't notice. I'm going to play with that a bit before forming a solid opinion.

Please excuse the questionable photo quality.

View attachment 2035261 View attachment 2035263 View attachment 2035267 View attachment 2035269 View attachment 2035271

Don’t listen to the people who believe you need 11 garments to judge a tailor.

 

[othertravel]

Hi all. I posted my first fit photos of this recent Johnathan Behr suit in the Ongoing Bespoke thread and got some good honest feedback there. Since then, I had a couple of alterations and adjustments done and figured I'd share some new photos here to get some ideas for getting this suit looking a little better in terms of fit. This was my first suit from Johnathan Behr.

For this suit, I was looking for something leaning more on the British cut side of things with some structure and conservative details. I know that look isn't for everyone but I'd love feedback nonetheless.

Things that bother me:

• The jacket length is a hair short for my taste but I assume there's nothing I can do about that.
• The jacket lower quarters are more closed than I'd prefer - again, I'm not sure I can do anything about that.
• Trousers aren't hanging as cleanly as I'd like - maybe due to a slightly lightweight fabric?
• The shoulders seem a little too padded, square and uneven/unnatural.
• The shoulder width is probably a hair too wide - slight divots on the upper arm.
• The back isn't very clean behind the shoulders and in the lower back.
• Trouser length might seem short due to being pulled too high by my suspenders. And, I think my left leg was hung up on my sock and I didn't notice. I'm going to play with that a bit before forming a solid opinion.

Please excuse the questionable photo quality.

View attachment 2035261 View attachment 2035263 View attachment 2035267 View attachment 2035269 View attachment 2035271

It’s not bad, but doesn’t look like some of the more well made bespoke garments seen on this thread. Closer to made to measure.

Does he have a good reputation?

Edit: just took a closer look at the trousers. Can you get a refund?

 

[The Dirty Pigeon]

It’s not bad, but doesn’t look like some of the more well made bespoke garments seen on this thread. Closer to made to measure.

Does he have a good reputation?

Edit: just took a closer look at the trousers. Can you get a refund?

A refund is not a possibility at this point. Weirdly, I received some Luxire trousers today and the fit and shape are far better than the suit trousers in the photos.

 

[DorianGreen]

Hi all. I posted my first fit photos of this recent Johnathan Behr suit in the Ongoing Bespoke thread and got some good honest feedback there. Since then, I had a couple of alterations and adjustments done and figured I'd share some new photos here to get some ideas for getting this suit looking a little better in terms of fit. This was my first suit from Johnathan Behr.

For this suit, I was looking for something leaning more on the British cut side of things with some structure and conservative details. I know that look isn't for everyone but I'd love feedback nonetheless.

Things that bother me:

• The jacket length is a hair short for my taste but I assume there's nothing I can do about that.
• The jacket lower quarters are more closed than I'd prefer - again, I'm not sure I can do anything about that.
• Trousers aren't hanging as cleanly as I'd like - maybe due to a slightly lightweight fabric?
• The shoulders seem a little too padded, square and uneven/unnatural.
• The shoulder width is probably a hair too wide - slight divots on the upper arm.
• The back isn't very clean behind the shoulders and in the lower back.
• Trouser length might seem short due to being pulled too high by my suspenders. And, I think my left leg was hung up on my sock and I didn't notice. I'm going to play with that a bit before forming a solid opinion.

Please excuse the questionable photo quality.

View attachment 2035261 View attachment 2035263 View attachment 2035267 View attachment 2035269 View attachment 2035271

I share your considerations and critique points, but don't know whether the fit can be improved. Maybe some more knowledgeable members could give some suggestions.

Honestly, I wouldn't trust that tailor for a new commission.