The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[stubbsj20]

First difficulty doing this alteration is finding someone who understands what needs to be done and knows how to set sleeves. Sleeves are more difficult than other parts of making a jacket. Sleeves will be removed and put on again in the new position. 3-4 hours of work for a good tailor.

Again, thank you very much for the quick response and guidance!

 

[sjmin209]

Looking for feedback on the fit of these 2 suit jackets (Brooks Bros. Milano & Regent)
(ignore the pants)

 

[othertravel]

First one looks better. Not bad for an OTR garment.

 

[papado]

Looking for feedback on the fit of these 2 suit jackets (Brooks Bros. Milano & Regent)
(ignore the pants)

I'd argue I like the cleaner chest in the second photo (guessing it is the Regent model) and it'll probably be a better overall fit after you tailor the jacket (take in waist to give shape similar to milano; shorten sleeves to appropriate length).

 

[Despos]

Looking for feedback on the fit of these 2 suit jackets (Brooks Bros. Milano & Regent)
(ignore the pants)
View attachment 1740101
View attachment 1740104 View attachment 1740105
View attachment 1740106

First jacket is much shorter than the second. Look at the hem of the jacket and where it falls on your left hand. About 1" difference between the two jackets.
First jacket looks skimpy in the chest and short. Second has a more conventional fit/look.

 

[khughes44]

This happens with some regular/forward pleat patterns. Forward pleats are difficult to fit well. The way this maker creates the pattern may not be right for you. It's all about the pattern and the drape here is something you cannot change without changing the pattern.
Never heard of a lambswool trouser cloth. There doesn't seem to be much body to this cloth. Cloth appears to be too soft to use for trousers. Would confirm with the maker or whoever makes the cloth. The crease is is lost wherever there is stress on the crease.
Have you tried reverse pleats? They may work with your body type better. This never occurs with reverse pleats.

@khughes44
few more thoughts. Look at pictures of forward/regular pleats and you see variations of where the pleat is placed and meets the waistband. Some pleats are closer to the fly and the pleats drape like ( ). Your trouser the pleats are farther from the fly.
If you are set on having forward pleats you have to find the cut/pattern that works for you.
If you are doing MTM you want to find the maker with a better pattern that works for you.
If you work with a tailor he has to figure out how to draft for your body type.
Some body types aren't compatible with regular pleats.

Excellent, well explained response. Thank you for all the information you provide here.

 

[John Grady Cole]

…

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Has anyone tried having side adjusters made from the material leftover after having the hem shortened on an OTR pant?

 

[papado]

Has anyone tried having side adjusters made from the material leftover after having the hem shortened on an OTR pant?

Yup, have had it done on multiple suits. Can be pricy depending on tailor but I hate belt loops on trousers.

 

[TheSuitBurnsBetter]

Yup, have had it done on multiple suits. Can be pricy depending on tailor but I hate belt loops on trousers.

Any idea how much fabric is needed to make them? I just asked the alterationist at my cleaner if I could keep the leftover from the hem and he looked at me like i was crazy. Which, I mean, fair enough...

 

[papado]

Any idea how much fabric is needed to make them? I just asked the alterationist at my cleaner if I could keep the leftover from the hem and he looked at me like i was crazy. Which, I mean, fair enough...

My guess would probably be around 2.5-3" of leftover from each leg. I know That's how much I normally have left and it can be a close call but they get them done (I do 2" cuffs so that eats into 4"+ of fabric from the unhemmed length so if you have a somewhat shorter inseam and do plain cuff you should have plenty leftover).

 

[nevaeh]

Has anyone tried having side adjusters made from the material leftover after having the hem shortened on an OTR pant?

My tailor in Chicago asked for about 3–4 inches of fabric from each pant leg when I did this two years ago. This probably included a margin for error, as he had some fabric left over when he was done.

 

[Dan Dynamic]

Attached files show a dark green corduroy high rise pants by De Petrillo. I suspect these are too big, and the hems are obviously unfinished. Suggestions?

The pant measurements are measured pursuant to the Luxire Guide Measurement as I plan to buy trousers from Luxire as soon as I acquire a good fit trousers:

[Inches]

Waist	16.93
Hip	20.87
Front rise	12.99
Back rise	18.11
Inseam	34.65
Outseam	46.46
Thigh	13.39
Knee	9.45
Bottom	8.66

 

[Despos]

don't know how helpful this is but a couple observations.
Corduroy isn't a good cloth to use to dial in a fit. It’s actually a terrible cloth to use. You won’t get the drape or feel compared to a mid weight wool. It doesn’t tailor like a wool.
Don't use a super light weight cloth or a heavy cloth for a trial trouser. Both will distort a good analysis of fit. Use a good 10/11 ounce wool.
Some of what looks off in your pictures is directly effected by the use of corduroy. You think the trouser is too big but it is tight in the wrong p/critical places.
Other things are off because the DNA Of the pattern isn’t correct for your body type. Easy way to understand this is by trying on multiple makers of trousers and jackets and seeing they all fit differently. The differences are in the make up of the pattern used to create the silhouette. Best to find a maker with a pattern that only needs an adjustment of the measurements to be comfortable and create the styling you prefer.
These comments are generalizations giving you a point of view of how to approach getting clothes made.
Nothing specific to say about this pair because of the corduroy.
One observation is your right hip is higher than the left. That can be adjusted in the cutting.

 

[Dan Dynamic]

don't know how helpful this is but a couple observations.
Corduroy isn't a good cloth to use to dial in a fit. It’s actually a terrible cloth to use. You won’t get the drape or feel compared to a mid weight wool. It doesn’t tailor like a wool.
Don't use a super light weight cloth or a heavy cloth for a trial trouser. Both will distort a good analysis of fit. Use a good 10/11 ounce wool.
Some of what looks off in your pictures is directly effected by the use of corduroy. You think the trouser is too big but it is tight in the wrong p/critical places.
Other things are off because the DNA Of the pattern isn’t correct for your body type. Easy way to understand this is by trying on multiple makers of trousers and jackets and seeing they all fit differently. The differences are in the make up of the pattern used to create the silhouette. Best to find a maker with a pattern that only needs an adjustment of the measurements to be comfortable and create the styling you prefer.
These comments are generalizations giving you a point of view of how to approach getting clothes made.
Nothing specific to say about this pair because of the corduroy.
One observation is your right hip is higher than the left. That can be adjusted in the cutting.

Much appreciated comments, Despos. Actually, I will return these pants as I bought a pair of wool pants that will arrive next week.

May I ask which places are tight?