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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Jsm87

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Hello everyone! This is my first post after reading the forum for a few months. I was looking for a structured English like traditional coat, after I've seen so many good looking ones here and I want your feedback on one of them. Is it wearable/can it be made wearable or should I skip it? I currently don't own any coat that fits me good.

The coat is size 52 EU, half canvas, shoulder padding, 100% wool 110s and the lapel width is 8 cm / 3.14 inches. For the reference, I have a somewhat athletic build, my chest measures 107 cm / 42.1 inches and waist 79 cm / 31.1 inches so the natural drop is 28 cm / 11 inches.

  • The sleeves may be 1-1.5 cm / 0.5 inches too long, not obvious because the shirt sleeves fall too low on the arm
  • The back was cleaner on the first fitting, don't know why. Maybe the the padding is a bit too much for my shoulders and the upper back may be a little tight, but there are also vertical creases, so I don't know what's happening. Also, the waist suppression is way more pronounced from the back than from the front, which is not that useful
  • How do you think the shoulders fit? Also, does this type of shoulders fit my body type?
  • The first button lands just above my navel, at the narrowest part of my waist
  • The sleeve pitch may not be right but I can't figure what else is wrong with the sleeves because they don't look very clean, may the lining be too heavy for the coat fabric?
  • I wanted it to be a little longer, as I find that it drapes better and also looks more English. What do you think?
  • From the front, that curved waist is still not really visible, it makes me slightly fatter and I find that it may need a little more shape. Is it possible without creating other issues? Can the armhole be too low and it hides the waist? I think my natural drop allows for that curved look. But if it's not possible, I'm fine with the current look.
  • Do you think the hip/set and skirt area is too big/flared?
I appreciate any feedback as I want to learn what should I look for in my search for a coat and thanks for your time!





Any opinions?
 

hookem12387

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Does anyone have thoughts on eliminating the circled lines in the below pictures. I'm not sure why I can't figure this one out. Many thanks

3.7.24 p4.jpg
3.7.24 p2.jpg
3.7.24 p6.jpg
3.7.24 p3.jpg
 

1up

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Hello everyone,

Would appreciate input on two suits which I had made up, and still have the ability to tailor.

1) Grey DB wool flannel suit (4x2)

IMG_0584.jpeg
IMG_0585.jpeg

- The pants are a bit messy, I need to let out the seat another cm or two, and that would hopefully resolve the bunching - is the length of the trousers too short?

- Anything else glaring to be corrected? Jacket appears a bit short in the first pic from the angle, but I believe the length is appropriate.

2) Navy Blue Check - 3roll2

IMG_0575.jpeg
IMG_0576.jpeg

- Same issue with the previous suit, seat needs to be let out and the pants widened 1cm

- my main issue with this one is that the button stance of the jacket was erroneously lowered by 3cm, which I don’t mind from the top/opening perspective, but now the bottom button doesn’t line up with the pockets. It was recognized as their error and they offered to remake the jacket; but I’m not sure it’s a big enough deal..

Thanks and appreciate the input!
 

zr3rs

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My main criticism: the shoulder is too narrow (you cannot fix this) vs hip size, and look at the overly rounded sleeve top. Coat is 2 cm too short, buttoning point is too low, and pants are too narrow...
 

1up

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My main criticism: the shoulder is too narrow (you cannot fix this) vs hip size, and look at the overly rounded sleeve top. Coat is 2 cm too short, buttoning point is too low, and pants are too narrow...
Thank you for the feedback.

They have offered to remake the navy blue jacket as they made an error with the buttoning stance, so at least I have the opportunity to change things on that jacket. I will correct the buttoning stance to the original position (3 cm higher).

How would I fix the shoulder being too narrow? This is MTM so I would likely have to move up to the next size, and in general my hips are wide so that contrast between shoulder vs. hip size is usually apparent on all garments I wear.

Also, can you explain what you mean overly rounded sleeve top?

Pants I will increase in the seat and widen 2cm down the whole leg.
 

zr3rs

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Thank you for the feedback.

They have offered to remake the navy blue jacket as they made an error with the buttoning stance, so at least I have the opportunity to change things on that jacket. I will correct the buttoning stance to the original position (3 cm higher).

How would I fix the shoulder being too narrow? This is MTM so I would likely have to move up to the next size, and in general my hips are wide so that contrast between shoulder vs. hip size is usually apparent on all garments I wear.

Also, can you explain what you mean overly rounded sleeve top?

Pants I will increase in the seat and widen 2cm down the whole leg.
if you follow the outer contour of your sleeves upwards in front view, there should only be a moderate curve until you hit the shoulder seam. imagine the top seam being moved 2 cm outward and observe the more harmonious flow without the s-curve you have now.
 

The Dirty Pigeon

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Close, but no cigar. I am generally happy with the measurements here but the collar is sitting about an inch away from the back of my neck. Is this a balance issue with the back? Would any experts be available to assist with a diagnosis? Thank you.

IMG_5492.jpeg IMG_5500.jpeg IMG_5510.jpeg IMG_5638.jpeg
 
Last edited:

JohnMRobie

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if you follow the outer contour of your sleeves upwards in front view, there should only be a moderate curve until you hit the shoulder seam. imagine the top seam being moved 2 cm outward and observe the more harmonious flow without the s-curve you have now.
Here’s an example from a couple of mine with a jacket with shoulders that are too narrow and one where that was corrected so @1up can visualize the difference he’s looking for.
IMG_7428.jpeg
IMG_7413.jpeg

I’m
 

1up

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Very good feedback, thanks! That makes sense, and perhaps moving up to the next jacket size would resolve that.

I recall trying a size up in the jacket and the shoulder padding (albeit I have minimal padding in the jacket) stuck out too wide making it look like it was too large for me - how would I overcome that?
 

JohnMRobie

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Very good feedback, thanks! That makes sense, and perhaps moving up to the next jacket size would resolve that.

I recall trying a size up in the jacket and the shoulder padding (albeit I have minimal padding in the jacket) stuck out too wide making it look like it was too large for me - how would I overcome that?
Extended shoulders don’t have to look too big for you, particularly if they nail the rest of the measurements. Here’s an example of my normal width and extended side by side. You can see how the sleeves fall more straight down rather than curving slightly out.
IMG_7413.jpeg
IMG_7755.jpeg
 

The Dirty Pigeon

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coolarrow

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Would there be someone that I could mail a jacket for sleeve shortening the shoulders?

There is a local place here that is prohibitively expensive. $100+. I really don't want to drop that much on this jacket as it is more of a casual sportcoat.

Thank you.
 

Peak and Pine

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Would there be someone that I could mail a jacket for sleeve shortening the shoulders?

There is a local place here that is prohibitively expensive. $100+. I really don't want to drop that much on this jacket as it is more of a casual sportcoat.

Thank you.
$100 for shortening a sleeve at the shoulder is a bargain. I work on only my own stuff so obviously I don't charge myself, but if I did, $300 minimum. No wait, I would simply refuse the work.

I have removed and put back the sleeves on a number of my jackets, but for the purpose of narrowing the shoulder. It was a hell of a job, times two. All hand work, including the lining. The sleeve begins an immediate taper beginning at the shoulder, so cutting it there changes the circumference of the sleeve head, further adjustments have to be made for it to fit back properly. And there is layered padding in the sleeve head that has to be removed and repositioned.

Strongly suggest not doing this.
However, I'm a back porch tailor who works only on his own stuff, so keep that in mind regarding this post
 

stifler

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I'm eyeing this suit. I'm not a fan of jetted pockets. Can a tailor use the extra fabric to make them into flap pockets?

49916837NK_14_a.jpg
 

Megakurth

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I'm hoping to get a professional opinion or two on this one. Any input would greatly appreciated.
I’m far from a professional, but have had a similar issue on a few jackets. A local bespoke tailor indicated it might be due to the chest being too tight and the structured shoulders not being shaped properly. The tailor did work on both which helped immensely, however it did not completely solve the issue and the jackets still require a tug every so often.
 

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