The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[ebauche]

Why does everyone wear their sleeves so long?

 

[GeoffUK]

See the diagonal lines on the thigh and between the pleat and your hip. This is harder to diagnose and to adjust for.
Issue is the pattern used and the sewing.
This trouser cut/pattern isn’t working for your body type.
Did you buy these RTW or have them made for you?

is that a Saarinen table?

I have those diagonal folds on one side of my trouser, albeit much less extreme. My understanding has been that it caused by my low hip on one side, like a low shoulder on a shirt introduces a similar fold from neck to armpit?

 

[Bersabee]

@Despos Any suggestions on alterations?
I've just received these pants and shirt (both MTM).
Pants: I think these are too baggy in general, especially around the hip. There are vertical lines that run in between the front and back pocket, as well as between the crack. I'd think the hip measurement needs to be reduced, as well as the knee and bottom opening (I am aiming for a slimmer fit).
Shirt: I'm not too sure what is happening around the stomach or how to fix it. For around the shoulders, I'd wager I need to increase the arm opening a touch. Are the sleeves too short? I was thinking about increasing them 1/4 inch and increasing cuff size.

Any recommendations are helpfull.

 

[GeoffUK]

A few times people have asked about raising armholes, and the answer is generally no, with the exception of taking from the shoulder, with the caveat of the potential balance issues etc.

If one had a jacket which had some extra room in the chest (particularly in the front), and patch pockets, could one in theory remove the side body, let out the bottom hem on the side body a half inch or so, then re-attach the side body, taking in the excess cloth by the chest where it meets the armhole on the front slightly?

 

[Oakd]

I have an event coming up and since I do not wear a suit outside of special occasions I decided to revisit what I have. My 2 48 suits feel tight and a bit small, another suit which the size is listed as "11-D" feels just a touch too big, mostly on the shoulders. I seem to lie somewhere between a 48 and a 50. Is there an in between size? Should I get a 50 and have it worked? I'm feeling absolutely frustrated. My budget is not infinite but I would pay for something that actually fits.

 

[nevaeh]

I have an event coming up and since I do not wear a suit outside of special occasions I decided to revisit what I have. My 2 48 suits feel tight and a bit small, another suit which the size is listed as "11-D" feels just a touch too big, mostly on the shoulders. I seem to lie somewhere between a 48 and a 50. Is there an in between size? Should I get a 50 and have it worked? I'm feeling absolutely frustrated. My budget is not infinite but I would pay for something that actually fits.

How much time do you have till the event? MTM could be an option, but it’s something that might take a few months at least.

 

[Oakd]

Its at the end of August, Im based in Copenhagen. Any recommendations?

 

[nevaeh]

Its at the end of August, Im based in Copenhagen. Any recommendations?

You might have time for MTM. I don’t have recommendations for Denmark, however, since I live in the U.S. I suggest perhaps starting a new thread asking for Copenhagen MTM recommendations, if you want to go down that route.

 

[Oakd]

Which forum would be the appropriate one?

 

[nevaeh]

Which forum would be the appropriate one?

Perhaps Classic Menswear, the same forum this thread is in. I’m not an SF expert, though, so please take this with a grain of salt.

 

[breakaway01]

I have an event coming up and since I do not wear a suit outside of special occasions I decided to revisit what I have. My 2 48 suits feel tight and a bit small, another suit which the size is listed as "11-D" feels just a touch too big, mostly on the shoulders. I seem to lie somewhere between a 48 and a 50. Is there an in between size? Should I get a 50 and have it worked? I'm feeling absolutely frustrated. My budget is not infinite but I would pay for something that actually fits.

The first thing I’d do would be to try different models from different suit brands/makers.

Two suits from different makers that are tagged the same size will often fit quite differently. It is possible that your size 48 suit is on the slim size and all you need is a size 48 in a more generously cut model. Or a slimmer size 50.

While most people benefit from some tailoring of an off-the-rack suit, you want to start with a suit that requires as few alterations as possible. If you really end up stuck between two sizes, generally pick the one with the correct fit in the shoulders and upper chest, and the correct jacket length. These are the most difficult/impossible dimensions to alter.

 

[JohnMRobie]

Its at the end of August, Im based in Copenhagen. Any recommendations?

You could try Senszio - I think they have a location in Copenhagen. 6-8 weeks is possibly doable but you’ll want to check since that’s a tight timeline. Assume anything MTM in Italy is off the table because of the August holiday but I think their product is Hong Kong. You’ll want to confirm with them they’re able to accommodate if it’s HK due to Covid backlogs and shipping delays.

To answer your original question though typically you’ll want to find something that fits you in the shoulders - If you need to take in or let out the body that’s much more doable than altering the shoulders.

 

[db123456]

Hey folks - I have a question about some alterations I just got back from the tailor.

I had these chinos tapered and hemmed. All of the tapering came from the inseam, since there is pick-stitching on the outseam that I wanted to retain.

I’m dubious about the way this was done. As I’m hoping you can see form the picture, all of the original inlay was left. This means there’s a lot of extra bulk in the inside of the legs as you get closer to the hem, from all the additional fabric that’s doubled back on itself.

Is that the right way to do this alteration? I would’ve thought that the end result should be finished in a way that looks more like the original, just with a narrower leg.

Thanks.

 

[St1X]

View attachment 1806799
Hey folks - I have a question about some alterations I just got back from the tailor.

I had these chinos tapered and hemmed. All of the tapering came from the inseam, since there is pick-stitching on the outseam that I wanted to retain.

I’m dubious about the way this was done. As I’m hoping you can see form the picture, all of the original inlay was left. This means there’s a lot of extra bulk in the inside of the legs as you get closer to the hem, from all the additional fabric that’s doubled back on itself.

Is that the right way to do this alteration? I would’ve thought that the end result should be finished in a way that looks more like the original, just with a narrower leg.

Thanks.

This looks more like a home made alteration by someone who doesn't have an overlook machine. If you've paid 10$ than it's fine, otherwise an underwhelming result

 

[db123456]

This looks more like a home made alteration by someone who doesn't have an overlook machine. If you've paid 10$ than it's fine, otherwise an underwhelming result

Thanks, this was my reaction as well.

(Or as my wife put it: “This looks like something I could have done with my sewing machine.”)