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The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

Aloysius16

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I have a problem with nearly all my linen, or mostly linen jackets with double vents. The vents sort of split with the lower front of the jacket splaying open. Pressing makes it a little better for a while but the problem reverts quickly.

why might this happen and what might be a solution?
 

Nytailor

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Could be one of three things:

Long in the back balance
Tight over the hips
Poor tailoring
 

Aloysius16

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Could be one of three things:

Long in the back balance
Tight over the hips
Poor tailoring
thanks, and I do know what you mean with these suggestions as they would explain the issue with wool jackets. But the issue with the linen jackets seems as though it doesn’t relate to these things, as it isn’t really an issue about the fit. Instead there is something ‘wavy’ about the drape of the cloth.
 

Nytailor

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In that case it's probably the lose weave of linen and the fabric has stretched. This is common
 

jonathanS

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I have a problem with nearly all my linen, or mostly linen jackets with double vents. The vents sort of split with the lower front of the jacket splaying open. Pressing makes it a little better for a while but the problem reverts quickly.

why might this happen and what might be a solution?
Nevermind. Misread. Listen to len
 

mjmyers28

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I have a question regarding the construction of mens shorts. For a pair of mens shorts, which measurement dictates overall length where the front of the short hits the thigh; outseam or inseam? For example, if the outseam measures 15.5 inches and the inseam measures 6 inches, would dropping the inseam to 6.5 increase the length of the short or would it remain the same and the short have less of an angle upward on the inside of the thigh?
 

mjmyers28

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I have a second question about the construction of mens short. In the majority of off the rack shorts, the point where the inseam and out seam are sewn flares out. Why does this happen and is there a way to have the short not do this. Please see circled are in attached image
 

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Crispyj

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I have a question regarding the construction of mens shorts. For a pair of mens shorts, which measurement dictates overall length where the front of the short hits the thigh; outseam or inseam? For example, if the outseam measures 15.5 inches and the inseam measures 6 inches, would dropping the inseam to 6.5 increase the length of the short or would it remain the same and the short have less of an angle upward on the inside of the thigh?
Are you asking about the rise length? 15.5 inch outseam with 6 inch inseam means a 9 inch rise length, which is low rise. Increasing the inseam to 6.5 inch will still leave a 9 inch rise, outseam of 16 inch.
 

mjmyers28

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Sorry for the crude editing. See photo. I am saying if you extend the inseam down a half Inch to 6.5 inches and keep out seam at 15.5 inches would the bottom of the hem still hit the thigh in the same spot (line in photo). I am trying to understand if its possible to decrease the amount of slope up (circled in photo) without increasing overall length. Hope this makes sense.
 

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A-Lawson

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Hello!
I have a jacket I want to fix the fit on, but I've never done this specific alteration before.
Snapchat-815420455.jpg


From where to where should I let out the side seams, and will I need to do anything with the mid-seam?
Also, do I need to give my hips more space, or this just a waist issue?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
 

breakaway01

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Hello!
I have a jacket I want to fix the fit on, but I've never done this specific alteration before.


From where to where should I let out the side seams, and will I need to do anything with the mid-seam?
Also, do I need to give my hips more space, or this just a waist issue?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
Not a tailor but the usual tailor(s) have not been very active lately, so take this with a big grain of salt. To me it looks the the back is long, not that the waist or hips are tight. You could pin across the top of the back as in this picture to see whether this is indeed the problem.
B43F5FC8-36D1-4D6F-AC61-552CB44EC64D.jpeg
 

Despos

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Hello!
I have a jacket I want to fix the fit on, but I've never done this specific alteration before.
View attachment 1811580

From where to where should I let out the side seams, and will I need to do anything with the mid-seam?
Also, do I need to give my hips more space, or this just a waist issue?

Any feedback would be greatly appreciated.
This isn't a case to shorten the back like the previous post explained.
See the diagonal drag lines on both sides? They run from the side seams and point upward to the neck. The shoulder needs to be sloped a bit. This will lift the sides and raise the back off the hips.If you shorten the back you will create more diagonal drag.
Can't tell if the jacket needs to be let out from these pictures.
 

breakaway01

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This isn't a case to shorten the back like the previous post explained.
See the diagonal drag lines on both sides? They run from the side seams and point upward to the neck. The shoulder needs to be sloped a bit. This will lift the sides and raise the back off the hips.If you shorten the back you will create more diagonal drag.
Can't tell if the jacket needs to be let out from these pictures.
Makes sense, thanks for the correction. When the shoulders need more slope in a shirt, I see the drag lines much higher up the torso than here. Interesting that the drag lines appear lower down the torso on a jacket. Is this due to the structure in a jacket?
 

Despos

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Makes sense, thanks for the correction. When the shoulders need more slope in a shirt, I see the drag lines much higher up the torso than here. Interesting that the drag lines appear lower down the torso on a jacket. Is this due to the structure in a jacket?
Shirts are different than jackets in fit, cut and construction.
For example, the side seams of the shirt are about centered on the side of the body. Jacket seams are more to the back.
The shirt issue may not be the same as this jacket. Have to see each one individually.
 

A-Lawson

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This isn't a case to shorten the back like the previous post explained.
See the diagonal drag lines on both sides? They run from the side seams and point upward to the neck. The shoulder needs to be sloped a bit. This will lift the sides and raise the back off the hips.If you shorten the back you will create more diagonal drag.
Can't tell if the jacket needs to be let out from these pictures.
Thanks for the reply. I'm aware of my sloped shoulders, but that's a separate issue with the jacket I would have to deal with later if that's even possible.

The waist is tight for me, so I know it needs to be let out. The question is where.
2 centimeters more in the waist will do the trick, based on the measurements compared to my latest mtm jacket.

To clarify; I am wondering where I need to let out the side and/or mid seam in order to get 2 centimeters more at the waist, but still maintain the silhouette somewhat. Do you think I need to touch the mid seam?

I'll add a poor example of what my intuition tells me needs to be done:
563718293123.jpg
 

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