The Tailors' Thread: Fit Feedback and Alteration Suggestions

[Despos]



As it is, I am almost a year behind schedule on my Masters Thesis because I'm sewing instead

I have a friend who is almost 60 and when I see him he will occasionally mention " I have only one more paper to finish to get my diploma" He's owned a restaurant since college and does OK. He's also the guy who..."went to the Kentucky Derby, was there for 3 days and I never saw one horse."

 

[inlandisland]

Hymo - Great work. Is that yor first attempt? It looks very clean. I agree with the feedback that I need to learn more, take a more systematic approach overall, and initiate contact with a mentor in some capacity.

Sorry for the minor thread derailment.

 

[noobstyle]

Going to order a sample shirt using this shirt as a template. Any feedback?





Sleeve 22"
Chest/waist/hips: 17.7"
shoulder 5.6"
Yoke 15.7"
Cuff 3.7"
Arm opening 8.1"
Bicep 7.3"
Length 26.9"

 

[svisj]

Quote:

<
the sleeves do need to be shortened. be sure to wear dress shirt sleeves at the right length when being fitted.
yours is a slightly round back that is puling up the bottom of the back slightly.
but your head and neck are erect, causing that lump of cloth to stick up.
the back needs to be shortened at the top, but only enough to remove that lump of cloth. you dont want to pull the back up any more.
the waist has good shaping.
but the trousers look tight in the hips and waist.

Thank you for the insightful response, I'm very grateful. Though, in my infinite dumbness, some of these things are not all clear to me. The shirt sleeves are quite obviosly too long, and I apologize. I didn't think that through. But whats unclear to me are these parts:

"yours is a slightly round back that is puling up the bottom of the back slightly.
but your head and neck are erect, causing that lump of cloth to stick up.
the back needs to be shortened at the top, but only enough to remove that lump of cloth. you dont want to pull the back up any more."

Are you still talking about the shirt, or the jacket? And, after considering it, I just don't understand what you're aiming at. This might be due to my lack of english fluency, so I would be grateful for a dumbed down version

And, finally: Is there hope? Can a tailor make it OK? I'm a student, so my budget is limited, so I can accept something that's not a hundred percent model fit!

 

[a tailor]



Is this an attempt at a lulz post?
Anyhow, I just got them hemmed. Looks much better. Thanks for the help.

sorry, no offense meant. it was supposed to be a lol.

 

[a tailor]



Thank you for the insightful response, I'm very grateful. Though, in my infinite dumbness, some of these things are not all clear to me. The shirt sleeves are quite obviosly too long, and I apologize. I didn't think that through. But whats unclear to me are these parts:

"yours is a slightly round back that is puling up the bottom of the back slightly.
but your head and neck are erect, causing that lump of cloth to stick up.the back needs to be shortened at the top, but only enough to remove that lump of cloth. you dont want to pull the back up any more."

Are you still talking about the shirt, or the jacket? And, after considering it, I just don't understand what you're aiming at. This might be due to my lack of english fluency, so I would be grateful for a dumbed down version

And, finally: Is there hope? Can a tailor make it OK? I'm a student, so my budget is limited, so I can accept something that's not a hundred percent model fit!

look at the side views. see the lump of cloth sticking up just below the coat collar. thats what needs to be removed. its done by shortening the back at the top. if the tailor removes too much cloth, it will pull up the back at the bottom. the coat sleeves do need to be shortened, as well as the shirt sleeves. for some more info go to search and ask for "balance explained".

 

[Trainwreck]

[/SPOILER][/SPOILER]
The front balance is short and the back is long and doesn't work due to your erect posture. This is what causes the vent to splay open. The jacket is too far off to correct this properly

Thank you for your reply, and I was afraid you would say that. My erect posture makes it very difficult to find jackets that balance properly, which usually manifests itself in puckering lapels. Are there suit makers out there that work better for an erect posture or am I forced to go with bespoke or at least MTM?

 

[gettoasty]

Some photos after work. Someone asked about the hem so I took some photos.

They are at 7.75" currently and after getting the right side fixed (my right up sits higher than left) I like the overall fit of the pants. Didn't wear a belt so the appearance may look a tad loose/sagging.
After talking previously, I don't think I am going to change these as I personally like them the way they are. Will get other pants in similar measurements.

Thanks for all the feedback, tailors! FYI, I've been sitting in the office for 5+ hours and occasionally getting up. Aside from fit issues, please excuse the wrinkles

 

[hymo]



Hymo - Great work. Is that yor first attempt? It looks very clean. I agree with the feedback that I need to learn more, take a more systematic approach overall, and initiate contact with a mentor in some capacity.
Sorry for the minor thread derailment.

Yeah first attempt, but three uncanvassed muslins preceeded it because I wanted the pattern approximately right before doing anything. I did not have a mentor; it was just the literature and me.

I'm PMing you the link to my blog where I documented my progress with this trial garment.

 

[sugarbutch]

Why not share with everyone?

 

[Gorpomon]

Quote:

This is not a problem and the seam should look this way. From the knee up to the crotch the back part of the trouser is stretched and fullness applied to the top part.This is done to accommodate the curve of the back part and the straightness of the front part when sewing the two parts together. That your other trousers don't show this is the flaw.
by the way, that is not the hem. The hem is the bottom of the trouser where the cloth is turned up. Two points for finding a picture that shows the issue. Good job!

Yikes! Seam vs. hem, I should have recognized the error I was making. That's not even from a lack of tailoring knowledge, that's my knowledge of common English vocabulary temporarily abandoning my body.

Also, thank you for putting that issue to rest for me, for about two years I've been seeing those and wondering why my tailor didn't like/care enough to make my seams straight, and now I realize what a fool I've been. I seem to recall reading a style commandment somewhere that says "trust your tailor", and now I think that has finally sunk in.

 

[Getzione]



Some of my MTM shirts get this diagonal creases running from the armpit through the chest (As seen on the photo). The other parts of the shirt fits clean to the body. Does anybody know what may cause this? How may it be fixed for future orders?

 

[TDP]

I believe it's because your shoulders are too wide, which creates this tension in the fabric around the button.

 

[Getzione]



I believe it's because your shoulders are too wide, which creates this tension in the fabric around the button.

Really? I dont think these shoulders are that much wider than my other shirts. I should mention I have forward pitched shoulders. I thought it might be a chest+armhole thing, but you might be right. Can anyone confirm this?

 

[othertravel]

The following measurements are from a suit labelled 40L; but could the measurements are work for a Regular fit? (i.e. I'm a 38/40R, not a 38/40L).
The only thing that stands out is the sleeve, which I would have to shorten by an inch.


Jacket Measurements:
P2P 20.5"
Shoulders 18"
Waist 18"
BOC 30.5"
Sleeve 26" (plus 1.5" to let out if you're a giant)

Pants Measurements (tagged 32"):
Waist 33"
Front Rise 11.5"
Thigh 12.5"
Knee 9.5"
Leg Opening 9" (unfinished)