The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Andy57]

Oh Andy, embrace the grit! Unsure what this says about me, but I actually enjoy the scratch that often (always?) accompanies mohair.

Absolutely not!

 

[Andy57]

Unfortunately I have not. What's your take on heavy pure wool barathea, such as 15oz or so, versus lighter wool/mohair blends?

Unless you think you will be dressed in the jacket in cold locations, I would advise against a heavy fabric for a dinner jacket. There are plenty of excellent options in the 10oz-12oz range, I think. For black, I use Dormeuil Amadeus, for ivory I use Holland & Sherry's formal bunch. I can't help you with midnight blue, as mine is a London Lounge mohair.

 

[Andy57]

This one?

Yes! That's the one. Thank you!

 

[The Chai]

I was wondering how it performs wrinkle-resistance wise and whether it is too shiny. I haven't had the change to see the fabric in person, but photos online looks a bit glossy.

That cloth wont be wrinkling anytime soon my hombre. As for the gloss it's in the touch shiny side but not as shiny as in the online photos. I love the fabric. Scratchy as hell though. You definitely want it fully lined mainly because it could potentially cause the cotton or linen on your dress shirts to pile

 

[The Chai]

Unfortunately I have not. What's your take on heavy pure wool barathea, such as 15oz or so, versus lighter wool/mohair blends?

Imo unless you're in Siberia pointless. Runs too hot for me personally. Bateman Ogden has a nice midnight mohair in 320 g. I personally love the midnight pure wool barathea from moon. That runs about 450g

 

[Lensmaster]

Yes! That's the one. Thank you!

In the 1927 movie Hula Clive Brook wears a dinner jacket with white pants. Seems to have been a tropical variation for a while.

 

[Andy57]

In the 1927 movie Hula Clive Brook wears a dinner jacket with white pants. Seems to have been a tropical variation for a while.

Yes, it seems pretty clear that it's a tropical concept. Or, at least, a warm weather variation. Luckily, I have a lot of that where I live!

 

[Andy57]

2021 formal Friday #10.

Time to get this jacket cleaned as the prospect of actually wearing it outside the house appears on the horizon.

 

[Thin White Duke]

Yes, it seems pretty clear that it's a tropical concept. Or, at least, a warm weather variation. Luckily, I have a lot of that where I live!

@Andy I just got The Rake delivered yesterday and within the first couple of pages is a Ralph Lauren layout including a bloke wearing conventional black tie top half and white or near white strides (it’s a b and w photo). The twist here is that the strides include a black silk stripe down the out seam. I dunno if that’s what inspired your curiosity or if it’s just a coincidence but seeing that pic got me wondering myself about where I might have seen if done before in a AA style drawing.
The problem with AA drawings of course - much as I love them - is that it’s impossible to tell exactly how much they’re a reflection of what was commonly worn back then and how much they’re a product of the fanciful mind of the artist.

 

[Andy57]

@Andy I just got The Rake delivered yesterday and within the first couple of pages is a Ralph Lauren layout including a bloke wearing conventional black tie top half and white or near white strides (it’s a b and w photo). The twist here is that the strides include a black silk stripe down the out seam. I dunno if that’s what inspired your curiosity or if it’s just a coincidence but seeing that pic got me wondering myself about where I might have seen if done before in a AA style drawing.
The problem with AA drawings of course - much as I love them - is that it’s impossible to tell exactly how much they’re a reflection of what was commonly worn back then and how much they’re a product of the fanciful mind of the artist.

No, my inspiration was the Esquire illustration posted earlier. It doesn't matter to me if the Esquire illustration was a reflection of something commonly worn or not. I suspect it was not a common variation on black tie, even then. The ivory-colored trousers I'm having made will have an ivory grosgrain stripe down the side, not black.

My only thought is what shoes to wear? I'm planning to wear black patent oxfords, as I do with my regular black tie trousers.

 

[The Chai]

I think the Duke had a dinner jacket with the royal yacht squadron black blazer buttons. That may suit the white dinner trousers looked. Currently playing around with piped lapels on dj rather than full silk facings. Maybe that will be a better look to go with the white trousers

 

[Faux Brummell]

For those who are interested - some info from The Black Tie Guide on “the reverse warm weather combination.”

Originating in Monte Carlo a combination of a dark double-breasted dinner jacket and white trousers became popular in 1939 in Palm Beach. The dinner jacket often had gold buttons, thus giving the ensemble a nautical touch. The pumps, boutonniere and silk shirt were likewise somewhat casual elements that made it a perfect seaside evening outfit.

 

[JJ Katz]

No, my inspiration was the Esquire illustration posted earlier. It doesn't matter to me if the Esquire illustration was a reflection of something commonly worn or not. I suspect it was not a common variation on black tie, even then. The ivory-colored trousers I'm having made will have an ivory grosgrain stripe down the side, not black.

My only thought is what shoes to wear? I'm planning to wear black patent oxfords, as I do with my regular black tie trousers.

First of all, congratulations on your upcoming experiment. I think the ivory grosgrain is an inspired touch that will also work well if and when you wear the trews with one of the non-black DJs.

I do wonder if black shoes might not be too much of a contrast with the ivory fabric. If you'e even consider weariNg Belgian slippers with a DJ, perhaps some lighter (fawn, grey, etc.) ones could look good with that? Just thinkign laterally.

 

[Concordia]

This one?

There was another, too. Same basic idea, though: riffed from the navy blazer format, while near water in summer weather.

 

[Concordia]

First of all, congratulations on your upcoming experiment. I think the ivory grosgrain is an inspired touch that will also work well if and when you wear the trews with one of the non-black DJs.

I do wonder if black shoes might not be too much of a contrast with the ivory fabric. If you'e even consider weariNg Belgian slippers with a DJ, perhaps some lighter (fawn, grey, etc.) ones could look good with that? Just thinkign laterally.

White bucks? Perhaps with a proper leather sole and not the red crepe.