The State of Black Tie: Your Observations

[Ivar]



It needs to be the Viennese waltz. Practitioners of the slow waltz will be ruthlessly ridiculed.

Isn't waltzing more a white-tie thing?

 

[unbelragazzo]



Haha. If you are willing to subject yourself to four weeks of waltz classes leading up to the party - along with other tortures - you can come to the next one. If there is one.

All I need is four weeks notice

 

[blackbowtie]



Isn't waltzing more a white-tie thing?

I might, in general, agree with this statement, but given that people in DC are more likely to own black tie rather than white tie - and I'm really understating matters here - the sensible thing to do was to stipulate a black tie dress code. And I don't see why we need to sacrifice the waltzing only because people aren't in white tie.

 

[Ivar]



I might, in general, agree with this statement, but given that people in DC are more likely to own black tie rather than white tie - and I'm really understating matters here - the sensible thing to do was to stipulate a black tie dress code. And I don't see why we need to sacrifice the waltzing only because people aren't in white tie.

I don't at all object to people waltzing in black tie. I was just curious.

 

[emptym]



As someone who lives in the "old country," I must say that I am impressed with this report that most of your sister's guests at her debut were in black tie. More often than not, our default for formal wear will be national dress (climate being tropical and all that). 

Black tie is a relative rarity here in the Philippines, at least after 1986. Most events I have attended where formal garb was required would have had the men in Filipiniana or in lounge suits. To be fair, the black-and-white palette of black tie finds a complement in the black-and-white palette of the barong Tagalog when the latter is worn with evening trousers (at best; black sans the satin outer seam stripe seems to be the norm). I suppose the white dinner jacket with proper accessories would have blended nicely with men in Filipiniana, but I digress. 

Interesting that you trace the decline to 1986. Were the Marcoses and their friends fans of black tie?

I'm also surprised that you would pair a barong with satin-striped pants. But there is more to Philippine formal attire than I'd imagined, as I learned from the the dress of former Philippine presidents. Pics of the diversity of their dress posted in this thread.

 

[lordsuperb]

So when are the fine gentlemen of the styleforum (DC in particular) going to have a black tie get together/fundraiser I need an an excuse to wear my tux one more time!!!

 

[akatsuki]

Okay, read through this entire thread, Manton's thread, etc.

I'd like to get something OTR, midnight blue, shawl collar, single-button, grosgrain, with U-vest. Any recs? I prefer Italian suits... And, of course, ideally under 1500...

Nothing with those ridiculously slim collars, something ridiculously classic that I'll be wearing for 30 years.

 

[musicmax]



Okay, read through this entire thread, Manton's thread, etc.
I'd like to get something OTR, midnight blue, shawl collar, single-button, grosgrain, with U-vest. Any recs? I prefer Italian suits... And, of course, ideally under 1500...
Nothing with those ridiculously slim collars, something ridiculously classic that I'll be wearing for 30 years.

That's gonna be a tough combo to score OTR unless you want to blow your budget sky-high with the Tom Ford "Quantum of Solace" DJ. You're in NYC - can you wait for WW Chan's next visit in March?

 

[E TF]

The U vest is at the more formal end of the black tie options, while the shawl collar is at the more relaxed end. Makes for an odd combination IMO. Also visually, you'll have quite a lot of long swooshy shapes all together - the U of the waistcoat contrasts better with the pointiness of peak lapels. So for uber classicness I'd go with a cummerbund with shawl collar, or u waistcoat with peak lapels.

 

[akatsuki]



The U vest is at the more formal end of the black tie options, while the shawl collar is at the more relaxed end. Makes for an odd combination IMO. Also visually, you'll have quite a lot of long swooshy shapes all together - the U of the waistcoat contrasts better with the pointiness of peak lapels. So for uber classicness I'd go with a cummerbund with shawl collar, or u waistcoat with peak lapels.

Fair point - I could see it turning into too much swoopiness. I think I prefer a waistcoat over a cummerbund more than I prefer a shawl over peaks...

 

[akatsuki]



That's gonna be a tough combo to score OTR unless you want to blow your budget sky-high with the Tom Ford "Quantum of Solace" DJ. You're in NYC - can you wait for WW Chan's next visit in March?

I could just wait - I have an inexpensive tux with notch lapels that I have always hated that I can use to get through the holiday season... Just finally tired of making do even though I rarely use it.

 

[sftiger]



The U vest is at the more formal end of the black tie options, while the shawl collar is at the more relaxed end. Makes for an odd combination IMO. Also visually, you'll have quite a lot of long swooshy shapes all together - the U of the waistcoat contrasts better with the pointiness of peak lapels. So for uber classicness I'd go with a cummerbund with shawl collar, or u waistcoat with peak lapels.

Does anyone have any idea where to get one of these U-shaped vests OTR? I'd love to buy one if possible but I don't think I've ever seen them for sale around NYC, although to be honest I haven't looked that hard.

 

[dopey]

Counting New Year's Eve, I think I will be at under five for black-tie for the calendar year.

 

[TimelesStyle]



Does anyone have any idea where to get one of these U-shaped vests OTR? I'd love to buy one if possible but I don't think I've ever seen them for sale around NYC, although to be honest I haven't looked that hard.

The few I've seen have been part of a three-piece tuxedo and done in the same wool as the rest of the suit. The only vests I've seen sold as add-ons are some kind of satin and somehow I don't see this looking as good as a satin piece.

 

[Veremund]

I go to the opera here at least twice or thrice a year, and I usually wear my dinner jacket (SB, peak lapels). I have a vintage Pierre Cardin that I scored off eBay for €20 that miraculously fit me like a glove wiithout any alterations at all. Of course, I'm fussy, so I had the sleeves trimmed and shortened and the waist suppressed a tad. Mind you, I could try on 50 jackets my size at a shop, and if I'm lucky, two might fit me correctly. The fact that this eBay bargain fit me so well must have been destiny.

If I want to get super dressed up, but not go "all the way" with the dinner jacket, then I'll swap it out for my velvet tourmaline jacket and keep everything else the same: tux trousers, black barathea bow tie, vest or cummerbund.

Neither outfit ever fails to elicit compliments.