The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by wurger, Sep 15, 2013.

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  1. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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  2. JimmyHoffa

    JimmyHoffa Senior member

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    In fact, just to the left of the laces, it's got the swirl motion - which means I think it is safe to rule out EG all together.
     


  3. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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    Warm, warmer, warmer...colder...

    EG Chelsea on E888 :)
     


  4. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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  5. JimmyHoffa

    JimmyHoffa Senior member

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    I'm taping out. That was embarrassing! I should know as well, as I have the 88 last, which is even slightly more square than that.

    Wurger, for the win!
     


  6. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    I will post some other black cap toe oxfords, though not strictly stitch cap, the only decorations are perforations along some seams.

    While in USA, Balmoral refers to closed lacing shoes. In UK, Balmoral is a type of Oxford, where are no seams that runs from the welt of the shoe except for the cap and the heel. So I will start with this interesting style:

    My Alfred Sargent Exclusive Wilson Black in 104 last, size UK 6.5F
    Purchased from Bodileys, RRP £321 ext. VAT
    Topied at Coombs in the Strand Arcade Sydney

    [​IMG]

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    [​IMG]
     


  7. Alcibiades

    Alcibiades Senior member

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    I need help deciding on one of these in the near future... For a point of reference I wear suits 4 days a week and generally wear cordovan balmorals and bluchers with suits. For years, I wore a Church Consul as well, but it was a bit missized and it has worn down, so I haven't worn it in several months and want to replace it.

    So I am looking for a black oxford captoe in the mid to high tier (could spend anywhere from $500 to $1000, but I want to avoid paying JL/EG/G&G pricing) that will have a classic but contemporary look and will last for years. Blake or goodyear both work. The main requirement is that the maker has to offer them in wide widths - F I guess. The issue with the Consul is that I stretched them out width wise to the point that it looks unattractive. I understand the Consul is offered in F, so that is an option, but it seems like there are other nicer brands out there.
     


  8. OzzyJones

    OzzyJones Senior member

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    Vass do wide fitting and should run you no more than mid 700. Likely a lot less if you deal with them direct. Mine cost the equivalent of $660 shipped with trees and toetaps and I had to pay VAT. SF member Notch runs a proxy service or you can deal direct
     


  9. SuitedDx

    SuitedDx Senior member

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    Not the traditional cap toe but AS' Moore is black is on their 724 last which is a relatively wider last. F is their 'standard' size (not E like other brands) but it might be worth checking out. Julian at A Fine Pair of Shoes is very helpful and I've bought numerous shoes from them in the past.

    I think C&J has a black cap toe oxford that they also run an F last but I'm not positive...

    Nice to see you outside of the Alden thread A! I'd push EG since I personally think they're awesome but that pushes you right at your cap around $1000...
     


  10. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    I'm really appreciating the shape of the heel on this pair. It's striking me as particularly elegant on this model with it's round, tight, horse-shoe shape.
     


  11. Afinepairofshoes

    Afinepairofshoes Senior member

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    AS use very nice heels on all their Exclusive shoes, all with the same profile and elegance.
     


  12. kev777

    kev777 Senior member

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    As they do on their Handgrade line... [​IMG]
     


  13. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    While these retain the nice roundness, I've never quite been on board with the "V" or chevron shaped edge. I think the edge with a subtle curve is much more elegant, personally.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2013


  14. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Church also uses F as their standard width, G is available on the Consul.

    Alfred Sargent 109 last is quite wide too, though its pointy toe cap may give your pinky toe some rubbing if fitting isn't spot on.

    Tricker's 5 fitting also has a lot of room.

    Pediwear can help with both above.
     
    Last edited: Nov 11, 2013


  15. Afinepairofshoes

    Afinepairofshoes Senior member

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    Great picture kev777
     


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