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The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by wurger, Sep 15, 2013.

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  1. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    now Cheaney is run by the Church's bothers, they are a good value brand.
     


  2. Halifax

    Halifax Senior member

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    By "good value" are you placing them in the lower tier? Or would this be another bracket again?
     


  3. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    they sits in no man's land, which I personally believe isn't ideal, they are like the budget Church's, if one wants to keep under 300 pounds, Herring and Cheaneys.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2013


  4. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Got a few comments on the Audley vs Aldwych, anyone else find that they look very similar and hard to tell the difference?
     


  5. Balfour

    Balfour Senior member

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    I agree they occupy a possibly unenviable position above 'entry level' price but below 'mid-tier' quality.

    Just an opinion, but in my view Herring Alfred Sargent > Cheaney.

    Cheaney are nice enough, but I'm not sure the extra price justifies the quality difference with Loake 1880 (in black calf at least - no experience in brown).
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2013


  6. OzzyJones

    OzzyJones Senior member

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    Would you extend that to include their imperial line?
     


  7. Balfour

    Balfour Senior member

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    Very fair point - my comment did not relate to that line.

    I was comparing Cheaneys that I tried but didn't buy at around £275 (in the classic range?) to the Herring Alfred Sargent Charles IIs that I did buy at £275 plus a free shoe tree from Herring. The Cheaneys were a non-starter due to last, but I think the Herring ASs are appreciably better for a slightly above entry level shoe. Others may disagree.

    The Imperials I believe are around £400. I have my mid-tier favourites, so would be unlikely to consider alternatives any time soon.
     


  8. OzzyJones

    OzzyJones Senior member

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    I only asked as those were a line I looked at when first looking for an austerity brogue. I think, judging from the various opinions given that I'd likely go do AS exclusive in the circa £400 price bracket now.
    Thanks for your valued input again Balfour, I'm still a relative naif in the quality shoe game
     


  9. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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  10. OzzyJones

    OzzyJones Senior member

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    Direct from Cheaney.co.uk
     


  11. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    ah, a very easy to purchase e shop, hopefully they have more presence in other vendors.
     


  12. Balfour

    Balfour Senior member

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    If it helps AS exclusive are my current mid-tier favourite, and I share the estimation for them wurger expresses above.

    I have some old pre-prada Church's (which I bought, in a very English way, because that's where my father bought his shoes). They have served me well, but are 10+ years old so may be no reliable guide as to what is being sold now. Given the static around them now, I'm not sure I would risk trying the current line given the quality and lasts available in AS.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2013


  13. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    I am referring to the extra piece of leather EG is sewing around the top edge of the heel.
    I think this detail is hideous, which is especially sad on an otherwise perfect RTW shoe like the EG.

    As for your question regarding C&J and Loake, yes, I think they look kind of similiar.
    If I had to chose and taking the prices into consideration, I would always go for the Loake.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2013


  14. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Are you talking about this detail? It's called a back-stay.

    [​IMG]

    You cannot take an "open" back-seam right up to the edge. The danger of it ripping when the shoes get put on without a shoe horn is too great. The back-stay is a method of reinforcement and the most discreet and least conspicuous there is. I rather prefer it to the more common dog-tail, which in my opinion looks always clumsy:

    [​IMG]

    Another reinforcement method would be the back-strap (a strap of leather, maybe 12mm wide, covering the back-seam). The two rows of stitching to hold the strap in place, will take strain off the back-seam.

    Give me a back-stay any time. In my opinion it is the smartest way to deal with that problem area.
     


  15. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Senior member

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    Love your posts bengal-stripe!
    Always very informative, thank you for sharing!
    I wonder where you get all the information and helpful pictures from?

    And yes, it's the back-stay I am referring to.
    Personally I prefer the dog-tail over the back-stay, which to me, even if I know better, looks like it was patched over an already ripped seam.
    A clean heel looking the best, I'd say for dress shoes my preference looks as the following:
    Clean heel > dog-tail > back-stay > back-strap

    For some casual/country boots I actually prefer the back-strap over an open seam which is only supported by the strap to pull the boots on, like in my AS Kirkhams for example.

    Do you know how the following heel, which I have seen both in dress shoes as well as boots, is called?
    (Referring to the seam starting from the sole running up to 1/3 to 1/2 of the heel)
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2013


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