The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by wurger, Sep 15, 2013.

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  1. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    ah, a very easy to purchase e shop, hopefully they have more presence in other vendors.
     
  2. Balfour

    Balfour Well-Known Member

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    If it helps AS exclusive are my current mid-tier favourite, and I share the estimation for them wurger expresses above.

    I have some old pre-prada Church's (which I bought, in a very English way, because that's where my father bought his shoes). They have served me well, but are 10+ years old so may be no reliable guide as to what is being sold now. Given the static around them now, I'm not sure I would risk trying the current line given the quality and lasts available in AS.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2013
  3. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Well-Known Member

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    I am referring to the extra piece of leather EG is sewing around the top edge of the heel.
    I think this detail is hideous, which is especially sad on an otherwise perfect RTW shoe like the EG.

    As for your question regarding C&J and Loake, yes, I think they look kind of similiar.
    If I had to chose and taking the prices into consideration, I would always go for the Loake.
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2013
  4. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    Are you talking about this detail? It's called a back-stay.

    [​IMG]

    You cannot take an "open" back-seam right up to the edge. The danger of it ripping when the shoes get put on without a shoe horn is too great. The back-stay is a method of reinforcement and the most discreet and least conspicuous there is. I rather prefer it to the more common dog-tail, which in my opinion looks always clumsy:

    [​IMG]

    Another reinforcement method would be the back-strap (a strap of leather, maybe 12mm wide, covering the back-seam). The two rows of stitching to hold the strap in place, will take strain off the back-seam.

    Give me a back-stay any time. In my opinion it is the smartest way to deal with that problem area.
     
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  5. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Well-Known Member

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    Love your posts bengal-stripe!
    Always very informative, thank you for sharing!
    I wonder where you get all the information and helpful pictures from?

    And yes, it's the back-stay I am referring to.
    Personally I prefer the dog-tail over the back-stay, which to me, even if I know better, looks like it was patched over an already ripped seam.
    A clean heel looking the best, I'd say for dress shoes my preference looks as the following:
    Clean heel > dog-tail > back-stay > back-strap

    For some casual/country boots I actually prefer the back-strap over an open seam which is only supported by the strap to pull the boots on, like in my AS Kirkhams for example.

    Do you know how the following heel, which I have seen both in dress shoes as well as boots, is called?
    (Referring to the seam starting from the sole running up to 1/3 to 1/2 of the heel)
    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Sep 30, 2013
  6. bengal-stripe

    bengal-stripe Well-Known Member

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    Last edited: Sep 30, 2013
    3 people like this.
  7. Balfour

    Balfour Well-Known Member

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    Very informative, thank you.
     
  8. Louis XIV

    Louis XIV Well-Known Member

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    I do own both a pair of Vass as well as a pair of the Cheaneys shown above so I am familiar with both styles of heels.
    I was just curious to learn about the technical terms.
    Thanks for helping me out!

    Now that fritzl sadly doesn't post anymore you, nutcracker and DWFII are the ones that constantly are able to teach me new things about shoes.
    Once again thank you a lot for your contribution to this forum.
     
  9. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    +1, Bengal-stripe, really appreciate that, it's also from one of your posts some time back in another thread you pointed me to how the difference in vamp length affects the overall look of the shoe, can you enlighten us more on that here?

    And any other small differences in the design of a simple cap toe oxford which many including myself would miss.
     
  10. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    And that thanks also go to Moneywellspent, Balfour, Louis XIV and others too, pointing us to the design difference within the same style!
     
  11. green garden

    green garden Well-Known Member

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    Definitely very similar toe shape. But isn't the Audley longer than the Aldwych? Also the Audley seem to have a more trimmed sole edge (which I think is a sign of a better finish). I don't know what the technical term for this is. But when you look overhead, I can see more sole material on the Aldwych (the wheeled edge).
     
  12. mimo

    mimo Well-Known Member

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    This is a special dedication to Patrick Booth.

    [​IMG]

    I bought these Loakes about ten years ago for maybe $120. Some of the most comfortable shoes I own. They're getting less conservative in their old age...
     
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  13. Alcibiades

    Alcibiades Well-Known Member

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    Outstanding thread

    I have a pair of Church's black captoe oxfords that needs to be replaced. This has been an informative thread for that purpose. I was thinking EG/Lobb but I really like the Trickers model.
     
  14. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Well-Known Member

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    Those look like they fit perfectly.
     
  15. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    a lot of experimenting i see, Mimo! perfect colour coordination.
     
  16. Trompe le Monde

    Trompe le Monde Well-Known Member

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    whatever happened to that fritzl? enjoying the slow life in Salzkammergut i imagine
     
  17. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    Audley actually have the same sole length as the Aldwych, but its heel counter is more curvy as it stick out more, so gives a slighter longer look.

    The sole edge width is similar too, again, the Audley toe is very round on the side view, covering the sole edge.

    Also, I just realised that the Crockett & Jones Audley shows no stitching along the sole edge, while the Loake Aldwych does, and so does my G&G, JL and EG shoes. Not sure about the technical implications of that?

    [​IMG]
     
  18. jrd617

    jrd617 Well-Known Member

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    Who owns more black shoes: Wuger or the Shoe Fairy?
     
  19. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    While the leather on the Tricker's isn't as smooth and shiny, it feels very sturdy, may be more to be with Tricker's brand power in my head. :satisfied:

    It also has an asymmetrical last compare to the C&J 337 and Loake Capital.
     
  20. wurger

    wurger Well-Known Member

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    many SF members!
     

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