The Quintessential Dress Shoe: Black Cap Toe Oxford

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by wurger, Sep 15, 2013.

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  1. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    That's known as a "dress welt." The stitches are concealed on top of the welt in the same manner that they are on the underside of the sole. A channel is opened up for the stitches and is closed down to cover them up when stitching is complete.

    Here is an example from Carreducker's bespoke shoe blog: http://carreducker.blogspot.com/2009/07/breaking-news-we-are-now-in-savile-row.html

    I am sure C&J uses machines to do theirs, but the appearance is the same in the end.
     
  2. jrd617

    jrd617 Senior member

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    Patrick Booth?

    The goth ninjas on SWD? (Just kidding)
     
  3. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    Thanks for that Money! always informative.

    funny conclusion from Carreducker's bespoke shoe blog, he prefers to show the stitching as the dress welt gives the shoe a glued sole look!
     
  4. MoneyWellSpent

    MoneyWellSpent Senior member

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    I almost said that, but then I didn't. I do agree with that though.
     
  5. green garden

    green garden Senior member

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    wurger and MWS, thanks for the explanations and comparisons. I think the stitching made me think there was excess sole material in the first place. wurger's pictures are outstanding. Learning a lot from this thread. The dress welt definitely adds to the overall look of refinement. But I'm still going to venture out to try the Aldwych when I replace my beater PAs. I like the chisel toe and looks like a really good value for my purpose.
     
  6. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Repost from awhile back.

     
  7. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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  8. poorsod

    poorsod Senior member

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    Bespoke version.
     
  9. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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  10. FredAstaire1899

    FredAstaire1899 Senior member

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    Wurger, what brand/type of full sock do you place inside the shoe? They don't look like the standard tacco insole with leather and rubber like you can buy from Coombs.
     
  11. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    I normally use Florsheim comfortech insoles, but you need to size up 1/2 to use them, but for EG and G&Gs, their 6.5Es are just right for me, so I just use tacco insoles which makes no difference in sizing.

    However, since I am more used to the soft cushion padding, I do find when I am wearing true leather insole, my feet feel the hardness of the sole, so I only wear them on days I don't have to walk much.
     
  12. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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  13. FredAstaire1899

    FredAstaire1899 Senior member

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    The Armfield's are going great! AFPOS are fantastic, they delivered after 60 hours of making the purchase.

    They are indeed a bit shorter than the 337 and a lot shorter than the 363 - but I think that's a better fit for my foot.

    I might make my own review of the shoes after a bit of wear.

    Do you have any other Alfred Sargent's Wurger?
     
  14. wurger

    wurger Senior member

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    I have pretty much every style in the Exclusive range, haha, plus 2 Bodiley's specials, and 2 Herring specials.
     
  15. FredAstaire1899

    FredAstaire1899 Senior member

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    Haha wow. How does the fit of the Charlton compare to the Armfield?
     

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