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The Overcoat Thread

DorianGreen

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comrade

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I like it, but hardly to call this pink.
I guess one could call it a "term of art" In the US World War 2 Army officers wore
"pink" trousers- really taupe. In the recent revival of the old World War 2 uniform,
"pinks" have come back. British Warm's as worn by British officers since World War 1
are virtually the same shade.
New Uniform.jpg
 

DorianGreen

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I guess one could call it a "term of art" In the US World War 2 Army officers wore
"pink" trousers- really taupe. In the recent revival of the old World War 2 uniform,
"pinks" have come back. British Warm's as worn by British officers since World War 1
are virtually the same shade.
View attachment 1928975

It's a lovely shade indeed, and it looks great in combination with the dark olive green.
 

FlyingHorker

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If you want a bespoke overcoat, why not have one and a rtw one too if you want? I mean, you can always use many different kinds of overcoats, different weights, fits, fabrics, construction, loose, snug, short, long, different levels of formality, etc. The weather comes in infinite temperatures and climates, and life brings us to infinite occasions, so it can be practical to have more than one and no need to restrict yourself to any one kind. I guess I am saying, I don't see the point in restricting your coat collection around a rigid philosophy.
It's more so caution.

I've seen a lot of the coats in the bespoke thread, and I don't think a lot of them look good.

Something is often off on the silhouette, design, or styling. I don't think a close fitting overcoat looks good, but my tastes lean towards oversized clothing these days.

I've also had a bespoke coat made, and I don't regret it. I was mainly after a particular fabric, and it turned out well.

I think RTW and used/vintage does overcoats better than bespoke.
 

BomTrady

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It's more so caution.

I've seen a lot of the coats in the bespoke thread, and I don't think a lot of them look good.

Something is often off on the silhouette, design, or styling. I don't think a close fitting overcoat looks good, but my tastes lean towards oversized clothing these days.

I've also had a bespoke coat made, and I don't regret it. I was mainly after a particular fabric, and it turned out well.

I think RTW and used/vintage does overcoats better than bespoke.

It's more so caution.

I've seen a lot of the coats in the bespoke thread, and I don't think a lot of them look good.

Something is often off on the silhouette, design, or styling. I don't think a close fitting overcoat looks good, but my tastes lean towards oversized clothing these days.

I've also had a bespoke coat made, and I don't regret it. I was mainly after a particular fabric, and it turned out well.

I think RTW and used/vintage does overcoats better than bespoke.
Well, let's just agree to disagree on this one.

I suppose just as you liked your commission, most guys also love theirs - I certainly love mine - and keep in mind, just as some may have disliked yours. It's a very personal thing, I'd say.

For bespoke, most guys either went with a tailor whose style they liked or had their commission tweaked to their specifications.

And I don't see any practical difference between already having a particular fabric you like already and finding one in a book, at the moment of your commission, that you discover fits perfectly in your wardrobe.
 

FlyingHorker

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Well, let's just agree to disagree on this one.

I suppose just as you liked your commission, most guys also love theirs - I certainly love mine - and keep in mind, just as some may have disliked yours. It's a very personal thing, I'd say.

For bespoke, most guys either went with a tailor whose style they liked or had their commission tweaked to their specifications.

And I don't see any practical difference between already having a particular fabric you like already and finding one in a book, at the moment of your commission, that you discover fits perfectly in your wardrobe.
Oh yeah, for sure, I'm sure many people dislike my oversized coats.

What I see with bespoke coats is people going for closer and closer fitting coats. The focus is on fit, and not the overall silhouette. This is what I think bespoke overcoats often miss the mark on.

I don't follow on the finding a fabric in a book paragraph.
 

BomTrady

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Oh yeah, for sure, I'm sure many people dislike my oversized coats.

What I see with bespoke coats is people going for closer and closer fitting coats. The focus is on fit, and not the overall silhouette. This is what I think bespoke overcoats often miss the mark on.

I don't follow on the finding a fabric in a book paragraph.
You stated, at least I interpreted your earlier comment as you stating, that the only way you see people going bespoke is if they have a particular fabric in mind and my counter point is there's no different between that and picking one out a book you like and works for you. There are so many fabrics to choose from you can always find something you wouldn't find RTW or in your wardrobe.

As I stated, I happen to like oversized coats like yours. But I also like fitted coats, long coats, short coats and more. I don't understand why anyone would restrict their coat philosophy to a single style when there are so many different occasions and temperatures, climates, etc. I say, go wild and have fun with them all. I love vintage coats and wear my RL Polo coats every time I get a chance.
 

DorianGreen

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You stated, at least I interpreted your earlier comment as you stating, that the only way you see people going bespoke is if they have a particular fabric in mind and my counter point is there's no different between that and picking one out a book you like and works for you. There are so many fabrics to choose from you can always find something you wouldn't find RTW or in your wardrobe.

As I stated, I happen to like oversized coats like yours. But I also like fitted coats, long coats, short coats and more. I don't understand why anyone would restrict their coat philosophy to a single style when there are so many different occasions and temperatures, climates, etc. I say, go wild and have fun with them all. I love vintage coats and wear my RL Polo coats every time I get a chance.

I like variety as well. I have long, mid and long coats, I like them all.

Generally speaking, I don't like (overly) oversized garments, but a slightly oversized overcoat can admittedly look good (better) in a more casual style.

In my opinion also a tailored, fitted overcoat needs to have some room to accomodate some pieces beneath, be it a chunky jumper or a jacket, and the most RTW producers take this into account with different measurements for an overcoat in comparison to a jacket.

Going bespoke, besides the undeniable advantage of being able to choose every detail, from the cloth to the buttons, you can also determine how much roomy your coat has to be.
 

FlyingHorker

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You stated, at least I interpreted your earlier comment as you stating, that the only way you see people going bespoke is if they have a particular fabric in mind and my counter point is there's no different between that and picking one out a book you like and works for you. There are so many fabrics to choose from you can always find something you wouldn't find RTW or in your wardrobe.

As I stated, I happen to like oversized coats like yours. But I also like fitted coats, long coats, short coats and more. I don't understand why anyone would restrict their coat philosophy to a single style when there are so many different occasions and temperatures, climates, etc. I say, go wild and have fun with them all. I love vintage coats and wear my RL Polo coats every time I get a chance.
Oh, I agree with all of this, sounds like some miscommunication. Yeah, having a fabric in mind and picking one out is basically the same thing.

I also have various fits of overcoats and agree that one shouldn't restrict themselves.
 

Woofa

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Picked this up yesterday. Very reasonably priced consignment. Won't be wearing it for quite some time and won't get much use here in Dallas but just could not let it go.
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Woofa

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Picked up this beauty half priced at the local Salvation Army. $7.03 out the door. I don't need another coat but...
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vikke977

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valstar.jpeg
I have read a lot about how the peacoat's longer brother, the bridge coat (pictured), is quite casual and should therefore not be extensively used as a replacement for a "proper" overcoat (like the rather formal but still versatile polo coat or the very formal guards coat). However, could this particular bridge coat from Valstar be used in a mixture of settings ranging from jeans with knitwear to a sport coat and odd trousers?

I get that it's obviously in its element with casual wear, but is it a faux pas to throw it over said navy SC, grey flannels and sleek derbys? I would not venture as far as wearing it over a suit, though.

I like its striking collar, (seemingly) good quality and the practicality stemming from the warmth it provides and the versatile navy color.

Link to coat on Valstar's webpage
 

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