The high end Chinese Shoe Thread

[j ingevaldsson]

^^^ TBF, when looking at the video of the making of Acme's shoes, where things are made exactly as proper bespoke shoes are made, down to every bit, seeing the pics of finished shoes, and knowing the tanneries they use (and at least from what one can judge by pictures it does look like good selection of hides and parts used), I can't think of any RTW shoe that can match their specifications. MTO yes, but no RTW. And from what I understand that's been the ambition, to do RTW shoes made like bespoke shoes, and it's Medallion being the enabler for this, need some big player. Then of course they offer MTO, MTM and full bespoke as well, but the "big news" is that this level now also can be bought off the shelf.

 

[clee1982]

Who else does that (bespoke everything else but standard last). AM Aurum, YK, F&S if HW I guess?

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

^^^ TBF, when looking at the video of the making of Acme's shoes, where things are made exactly as proper bespoke shoes are made, down to every bit, seeing the pics of finished shoes, and knowing the tanneries they use (and at least from what one can judge by pictures it does look like good selection of hides and parts used), I can't think of any RTW shoe that can match their specifications. MTO yes, but no RTW. And from what I understand that's been the ambition, to do RTW shoes made like bespoke shoes, and it's Medallion being the enabler for this, need some big player. Then of course they offer MTO, MTM and full bespoke as well, but the "big news" is that this level now also can be bought off the shelf.

Didn't Mori say something similar? Bespoke quality merged with RTW or something like that. I believe those may be cheaper as well.
But again, I don't know prices and specs for ACME.

Additionally, the true test is amongst their MTO brethren. Because say Stefano Bemer, for example, should be priced similarly. Top leather, made almost Bespoke, blah blah. ACME would be competing against those established names. And again, if you include Yim into the mix, makes for rather intriguing discussion and perspective.

In any case, further nformation about their shoes would be quite useful.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Who else does that (bespoke everything else but standard last). AM Aurum, YK, F&S if HW I guess?

Foster & Son and all other British premium brands are Goodyear welted with machine made sole stitch, they are all way off in terms of craftsmanship specs. Fukuda RTW is machine stitched soles, and also believe pre-built heels. AM Aurum if I’m not completely wrong are the same as YF, machine stitched soles and pre-built heels (correct me if I’m wrong though), and can you buy Aurum as RTW?

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Who else does that (bespoke everything else but standard last). AM Aurum, YK, F&S if HW I guess?

Stefano Bemer, StC makes similar claims, Riccardo Bestitti (when they were in business), Mario Bemer.. Im sure there are others.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Foster & Son and all other British premium brands are Goodyear welted with machine made sole stitch, they are all way off in terms of craftsmanship specs. Fukuda RTW is machine stitched soles, and also believe pre-built heels. AM Aurum if I’m not completely wrong are the same as YF, machine stitched soles and pre-built heels (correct me if I’m wrong though), and can you buy Aurum as RTW?

Aurum are exactly like his Bespoke shoes. Handsewn everything, and layered heels not pre-built.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Didn't Mori say something similar? Bespoke quality merged with RTW or something like that. I believe those may be cheaper as well.
But again, I don't know prices and specs for ACME.

Additionally, the true test is amongst their MTO brethren. Because say Stefano Bemer, for example, should be priced similarly. Top leather, made almost Bespoke, blah blah. ACME would be competing against those established names. And again, if you include Yim into the mix, makes for rather intriguing discussion and perspective.

In any case, further nformation about their shoes would be quite useful.

Many take parts from bespoke, but not everything. Mori also has machine stitched soles, only waist hand stitched. Same with Bemer RTW, machine made soles, also pre-built heels.

Of course they are supposed to compete with the absolute highest RTW brands out there, it’s very obvious that it’s the ambition.

Have you looked at the film and read what’s said about their specs? Quite a lot of info there, with the film showing that much of the making I would say one know more about them than many other brands already, when it comes to internal material and making.

Then of course it’s only when people receive their shoes and wear them and so on that they will really withstand the te

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Stefano Bemer, StC makes similar claims, Riccardo Bestitti (when they were in business), Mario Bemer.. Im sure there are others.

Claims is one thing (though would say too many say they have things “exactly made as bespoke” and offered as RTW, again MTO there’s many, but not RTW), but actual specs is another thing ?

Aurum are exactly like his Bespoke shoes. Handsewn everything, and layered heels not pre-built.

Alright, just surprised it wasn’t specified on his website where he goes through the specs. But can you buy Aurum RTW? If so, then that would be only one, spec wise, on same level for RTW that I know of.

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Many take parts from bespoke, but not everything. Mori also has machine stitched soles, only waist hand stitched. Same with Bemer RTW, machine made soles, also pre-built heels.

Of course they are supposed to compete with the absolute highest RTW brands out there, it’s very obvious that it’s the ambition.

Have you looked at the film and read what’s said about their specs? Quite a lot of info there, with the film showing that much of the making I would say one know more about them than many other brands already, when it comes to internal material and making.

Then of course it’s only when people receive their shoes and wear them and so on that they will really withstand the te

I'll take look. I didn't see the film. I just did a quick search and what the fine folks here have said.

As you said though, would be curious to the actual completed product and people's opinions and interpretations of the shoes.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

I'll take look. I didn't see the film. I just did a quick search and what the fine folks here have said.

As you said though, would be curious to the actual completed product and people's opinions and interpretations of the shoes.

Start with that then...

 

[BColl_Has_Too_Many_Shoes]

Claims is one thing (though would say too many say they have things “exactly made as bespoke” and offered as RTW, again MTO there’s many, but not RTW), but actual specs is another thing ?



Alright, just surprised it wasn’t specified on his website where he goes through the specs. But can you buy Aurum RTW? If so, then that would be only one, spec wise, on same level for RTW that I know of.

Heck no, you can't buy Aurum RTW ?. Good luck receiving them within a year as well haha.

 

[j ingevaldsson]

Heck no, you can't buy Aurum RTW ?. Good luck receiving them within a year as well haha.

Well then exactly ? Plenty of MTO options with “same as actual bespoke” specs, but not RTW. That’s the “big news”.

 

[clee1982]

when you say video, you mean that one on bilibili (showing a captoe on gold museum if my memory recalls)?

they didn't tell you the spec (like you can't tell how many shoes per hide, SPI etc.), but you can see it's leather toe stiffener, hand last, hand stitch sole etc.

 

[clee1982]

this one?

https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV115411h7GE?fbclid=IwAR0gCqBGEU1ujtRAFek26Fk2t7uYmFcnEVen30W6C7Ijb-gA6m2egcmBWvo

 

[clee1982]

Foster & Son and all other British premium brands are Goodyear welted with machine made sole stitch, they are all way off in terms of craftsmanship specs. Fukuda RTW is machine stitched soles, and also believe pre-built heels. AM Aurum if I’m not completely wrong are the same as YF, machine stitched soles and pre-built heels (correct me if I’m wrong though), and can you buy Aurum as RTW?

right, but I was under the impression that F&S is suppose to be all bespoke spec except
1. on standard last
2. GYW...

at least that was what was circulating around, not sure how true

though I suppose you can MTO F&S to HW which I assume would still be quite a bit cheaper than their bespoke