The Bespoke Shoes Thread

[ntempleman]

There's a few methods of turning the upper outwards to form the welt by hand, which is generally the most waterproof shoe construction as there's no seam between the welt and upper for water to work it's way between. If sewn properly, the stitches should be more or less waterproof in the scheme of things as the hole punched with an awl should be smaller in diameter than the 2 heavily waxed threads that are squeezed through it.

Leather isn't generally waterproof though, so any talk of a waterproof construction are relative - and a dry welt is useless if the water is getting in through stitching on the vamp. That's why riding and jodhpur boots are more or less seamless on the front.

 

[jerrybrowne]

Thinking of doing another pigskin shoe.

My first and only pair has a great patina, but still hasn't really softened in the ~1.5 years I've had them. Is this what other people have experienced? Bad luck or is there something you are doing to soften the skin?

TIA

 

[grc1]

2015 - looking at G&G Deco last, Bestetti Novecento and Meccariello Aurum:

G&G - looking at 2 Strands on the Deco last - black and racing green calf.

And would LOVE a Burnham on the deco, but not sure what colour yet

Bestetti - I have one on order already (Maverick on the Perfetta last) and thinking of another like the York model:

Meccariello Aurum - this is the most open-ended. I'm thinking a loafer and a boot, but it's a toss-up. Or it might be that Bestetti does a couple. Not sure yet, but I'm thinking of styles along these lines:

If bonus permits maybe another Maverick from bestetti in a mole suede.

 

[jerrybrowne]



2015 - looking at G&G Deco last, Bestetti Novecento and Meccariello Aurum:

G&G - looking at 2 Strands on the Deco last - black and racing green calf.

And would LOVE a Burnham on the deco, but not sure what colour yet

Bestetti - I have one on order already (Maverick on the Perfetta last) and thinking of another like the York model:

Meccariello Aurum - this is the most open-ended. I'm thinking a loafer and a boot, but it's a toss-up. Or it might be that Bestetti does a couple. Not sure yet, but I'm thinking of styles along these lines:

If bonus permits maybe another Maverick from bestetti in a mole suede.

Some nice ideas here. Have you used Bestetti before? I'll be curious how things go. Are you doing MTO or bespoke?

 

[grc1]



Some nice ideas here. Have you used Bestetti before? I'll be curious how things go. Are you doing MTO or bespoke?

Yes - I have one pair of MTO Bestetti mavericks, Novecento line on the Almond last. Best-looking adelaides I've seen thus far, and I love the last shape. Fit was 95% spot on out of the box, but we're tweaking the heel width and instep for an even better fit in the next order. I have one Perfetta already on order with the tweaked last, and will almost certainly get another Almond - the shapes on his shoes are just incredible. Pure sex.

 

[jerrybrowne]



Yes - I have one pair of MTO Bestetti mavericks, Novecento line on the Almond last. Best-looking adelaides I've seen thus far, and I love the last shape. Fit was 95% spot on out of the box, but we're tweaking the heel width and instep for an even better fit in the next order. I have one Perfetta already on order with the tweaked last, and will almost certainly get another Almond - the shapes on his shoes are just incredible. Pure sex.

It sounds like they been pretty flexible with the MTO. What is the upcharge for these changes to the last?

 

[grc1]

^can't remember off the top of my head, but the Novecento option includes some flexibility with the last shape in addition to adjusting the fit. Have you seen the Bestetti thread at http://www.styleforum.net/t/251332/riccardo-bestetti-bespoke-projects? Aficionados who are much more qualified (and have bigger closet space!) than I regularly opine there! It's a really good place for ideas.

 

[Ric Borella]

Bespoke hand made shoes, last 790 by Riccardo Borella

 

[venividivicibj]

That reverse alligator is pretty beautiful. Anyone ever tried reverse/suede stingray?

 

[DWFII]



That reverse alligator is pretty beautiful. Anyone ever tried reverse/suede stingray?

Just to be clear, if you're speaking about these, they are not "reverse alligator." Reverse alligator would have the fleshside turned out. This is grainside out but the grain surface has been buffed. FWIW...

 

[venividivicibj]

Just to be clear, if you're speaking about these, they are not "reverse alligator." Reverse alligator would have the fleshside turned out. This is grainside out but the grain surface has been buffed.

FWIW...

Yes I was, thank you, I didn't know that.

 

[DWFII]



Yes I was, thank you, I didn't know that.

No problem...just that the buffed gator will be more impervious to water and maybe dirt as well than a reverse leather. Think nubuck vs. suede.

 

[ThinkDerm]



Love the butterfly loafer. I know you like the lower vamp version, but these, by Delos, are perfect;



I read somewhere that Edward Green has a butterfly loafer that is available again MTO.....

beautiful delos loafers.

I've seen the EG butterfly loafers. they are amazing. should be a stock model.

 

[ThinkDerm]



Update:

leather samples from A.Crack arrived today. Will order willow zug on Monday for the veldts. One step closer!

willow zug? can you tell us more? who will make this pair for you?

 

[ThinkDerm]



so zug is still available!!