Tailoring advice - Online MTM dress shirts

[manjushri]

Hello all,

I don't know if I am in the right place for this question.

I've been using the Spier Mackay MTM dress shirt service for a while now, and there's always been some kind of issue. After much back and forth with their customer service, I thought I finally made it. However, in the latest iterations of a shirt, I experienced for the first time tightness under the armpit. I thus increased the armpit measurement by an inch, only to experience tightness in front of the armpit (!!!).

See attached pictures. The green area is where I experience tightness severe enough that I can't wear the shirt at all (I work seated, comfort is a priority). The rest of the fit is perfect.

I have never experienced that. Anybody has an idea how to correct that, if even possible, with S&M adjustments? Here are my measurements:

Thank you!

 

[rjc149]

I would bring it up with S&M.

 

[manjushri]

I would bring it up with S&M.

This is about the third remake and there always is something. My sanity is getting thoroughly tested. This is why I turned to this forum.

I brought it up with them and am waiting for the reply, but any kind of clue from users would be useful too!

 

[strider11]

I ordered 3 shirts from them. The fabrics were high quality, but the shrinkage was way out of line with other brand shirts. I can't justify the cost or effort. 2 of the shirts are so tight as to be unwearable after a year or so.

 

[breakaway01]

This is a good example of why I think this kind of online MTM can be so problematic. We are not pattern makers or tailors, so we really have no idea how changing a single measurement actually interacts with others.

Your description is confusing. You write that you "increased the armpit measurement by an inch" but none of the S&M measurements are for the "armpit". Do you mean the "chest" measurement or the "armhole" measurement? Also, when you write that felt "tightness under the armpit" do you mean that you felt the bottom of the armhole cutting up into your armpit, or do you mean that you felt that the chest diameter was too narrow?

If you mean that you increased the "chest" measurement, I would hazard a guess that increasing the chest measurement without changing the armhole may have narrowed the width of the armhole or some other armhole dimension that is causing the tightness in front. No idea how best to change, though, since I'm not a pattern maker and do not know exactly how their system works. If for example you increase the armhole diameter, how does that translate to the shape of the armhole?

If you mean that you increased the "armhole" measurement, I would have no idea why that would lead to the tightness in front of the armhole. Did you actually measure the two shirts to determine whether the measurements were increased as you'd ordered them?

 

[rjc149]

This is about the third remake and there always is something. My sanity is getting thoroughly tested. This is why I turned to this forum.

I brought it up with them and am waiting for the reply, but any kind of clue from users would be useful too!

I don’t believe you’re going to get more helpful insight from anyone who didn’t make the shirt, but it’s still worth asking I suppose.

I’ve read consistent reviews of S&M’s MTM shirt program that report needing angelic patience with the back-and-forth while they dial down your fit— so it sounds like this is a fairly standard procedure that you’ll need to bear with. It seems like their template for shirts is fairly slim-fit.

 

[manjushri]

This is a good example of why I think this kind of online MTM can be so problematic. We are not pattern makers or tailors, so we really have no idea how changing a single measurement actually interacts with others.

Your description is confusing. You write that you "increased the armpit measurement by an inch" but none of the S&M measurements are for the "armpit". Do you mean the "chest" measurement or the "armhole" measurement? Also, when you write that felt "tightness under the armpit" do you mean that you felt the bottom of the armhole cutting up into your armpit, or do you mean that you felt that the chest diameter was too narrow?

If you mean that you increased the "chest" measurement, I would hazard a guess that increasing the chest measurement without changing the armhole may have narrowed the width of the armhole or some other armhole dimension that is causing the tightness in front. No idea how best to change, though, since I'm not a pattern maker and do not know exactly how their system works. If for example you increase the armhole diameter, how does that translate to the shape of the armhole?

If you mean that you increased the "armhole" measurement, I would have no idea why that would lead to the tightness in front of the armhole. Did you actually measure the two shirts to determine whether the measurements were increased as you'd ordered them?

1. I meant "armhole" measurement being increased by an inch from previous orders. I didn't alter the chest measurement. Sorry for the confusion.

2. Tightness under the armpit: Indeed, I felt that the bottom of the armhole was cutting up in to my armpit. At no moment has the chest diameter felt too narrow (neither does it now).

Perhaps a useful bit of information: The last remake was because of a massive placket bump between the first and the second button. They lowered the collar by a 1/4'' and it fixed it. Now, I have no idea how does that interact with the armhole.

Also, I made no other changes that my measurements other than those specified in this thread.

 

[breakaway01]

If you increased just the armhole diameter I don’t really have any good explanation for why you feel tightness in front of the armhole. If you haven’t already, I’d measure the armhole diameter and width/depth to compare with your previous shirt. Armholes are not circles; they are ovals that are usually tilted.

 

[manjushri]

If you increased just the armhole diameter I don’t really have any good explanation for why you feel tightness in front of the armhole. If you haven’t already, I’d measure the armhole diameter and width/depth to compare with your previous shirt. Armholes are not circles; they are ovals that are usually tilted.

Yes, I measured.

Perhaps the solution would be to increase chest size to push the armhole further to the body.