Sydney Tailors

[OxxfordSJLINY]

Originally Posted by Journeyman

With regard to the differences between English, Roman and Neapolitan styling, there is a lot of information on this forum already - but again, you will have to do a search for it. Suffice to say, though, that there is a great deal more info in various posts than can easily be regurgitated here or simply collated in one post.

However, my very brief (and hopefully accurate) understanding is that the "English cut" is quite structured, with padded or built up shoulders and fairly heavy canvassing over the chest to provide structure and shape. Some of the Savile Row firms specialise in a very structured, military cut.
Neapolitan styling is, essentially, the opposite. Very little shoulder padding, a very natural chest, quite a bit of waist suppression, usually double vented at the rear of the jacket.
Roman styling tends (if I understand correctly) to fall somewhere in between those two.

Essentially, when it comes to using a bespoke tailor, you need to think about what you want in a suit, and you then need to talk to your prospective tailor about what you want to see if he is willing to do it for you. Some tailors tend to have a particular house cut, or style, and they will not necessarily do a good job if you get them to deviate too far from that style. There are a lot of books out there by authors such as Flusser, Roetzel and Antongiovanni that discuss suit styles and that contain illustrations, and it might be useful for you to have a look at a few and to then (if you have not done so already) go and try on a variety of ready-to-wear suits to see which cut or shape flatters you most.

As has been indicated earlier in the thread, you might even find that you like the style of a particular brand such as Zegna, Caruso, Canali or Brioni, and it might therefore suit you to simply purchase a made-to-measure suit from one of them, rather than commissioning an entirely bespoke suit.

I hope that this is of some help to you. I certainly have not intended to be patronising, and I hope that you take my suggestion to search for discussions of the various "cuts" to be constructive, rather than obtuse or patronising.

Don't forget Milanese styling, which falls somewhere between Neapolitan and Roman.

 

[OxxfordSJLINY]

Originally Posted by misterjase

I would have thought that someone with a shape that was difficult to fit would be best advised to use a tailor for best result rather than run the gauntlet of RTW.

p.s. you will not get hand made everything for $3,000. it is more like $30,000 and 3 months solid work.

That is correct, misterjase.

However, as I have said before, the following applies to all high end Italian bespoke makers (but not necessarily Italian brands that are not bespoke makers such as Brioni, Kiton, etcetera, whose handwork and machinework combinations are super variable) worldwide (regardless of what it is they make that is bespoke, where they are located or anything else):

Every product is almost entirely handmade (with only three small or very small areas that are machine made). Every square inch of these three small or very small machine made areas is done by any small number (six or less) of hand guided machines (which, as I also said before, has or have operation that is 95% manual and 5% automated). That makes all of this almost non existent machinework 95% handmade and 5% machine made.

As I have said before, I have read all of the above in magazine articles that have not yet made their way on the internet (so no links can be provided as of yet).

 

[lifeonmars]

Originally Posted by fistingdwarves

3. I've seen some postings about Sam charging $800 or $850 for a suit, and they're recent posts- only last year. When I queried with Sam why his prices had gone up so much he denied having charged $850 for a suit last year. Who knows. Perhaps they're mistaken, or perhaps inflation at Parramatta is hyper.
Just to clarify there, those figures are quotes for making a suit when the customer provides their own cloth. I believe it's mentioned earlier in this thread, and on AskAndy forums. //edit Sorry, looks like I misread your post. So you provided your own fabric? Any extras (more handwork, vest, extra pants)? And was John Cutler's quote of $6000 with your materials or his?

 

[madaboutshirt]

Originally Posted by Sator

BTW Charles Nakhle has a new website: http://nakhleshirtmakers.com.au/ He is struggling with the recession hitting NSW. BTW Charles does accept CMT and you can get half price shirting through Acorn:
struggling? I was there about a week ago, he told me he's been flat out. The guy still owes me 2 bespoke shirts and some I gave him for alterations.

 

[madaboutshirt]

deleted. Wrong Sam.

The Sam I went to was not Sam Disano but Sam Hasham next to Charles Nakhle. I would not go back to him again.

 

[fistingdwarves]

Originally Posted by lifeonmars

So you provided your own fabric? Any extras (more handwork, vest, extra pants)?
And was John Cutler's quote of $6000 with your materials or his?


1. Yes.

2. No.

3. Mine.

 

[Sator]

I note that many of you are still sourcing your own cloth. Please note that both Adamo Marrone and Sam Disano have been distributed with books by Dugdale. They are the last family owned independent cloth merchant based in Huddersfield. Dugdale do not sell through middle men and so you do not pay their extortionist agency fees. This makes the number one bang for your buck English cloth you could possibly buy. You can see the swatches yourself and you can get your tailor to procure the exact amount of cloth needed for you. If multiple clients place orders this will save everyone courier fees too.

This is a thread on the English & Town Classics book (no local tailor has this, but it can be organised to be delivered if there is sufficient demand). There is a bit of positive feedback on how the cloth makes up by Jefferyd in that thread.

A bit about the company here:

http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum...?showtopic=522

This is better value than Minnis or any other source you care to name. Given that you can get a great choice of designs, and that they are firsts rather than a questionable end of mill run, you are far better off going with Dugdale than buying off eBay. I have been very impressed by the quality of the cloth.

If necessary, other tailors in Sydney can be distributed the books. Disclaimer: I have no financial connection with Dugdale whatsoever. I (like the tailors around town) am just a bit sick of the extortionist mark ups imposed by cloth middle men.

 

[TheWraith]

I like the sound of Dugdale. Hmm...maybe later this year, if I can swing it...

 

[kcijojo]

Sator -

Thanks for the heads-up, I'll definitely look into it as I'm planning to make a visit to both Adamo Marrone and Sam Disano sometime this year.

 

[Banker1]

Hi Sydney Lawyer,

I'm a couple of years late, however I hope this information reaches you well!

I have been getting tailor made Bespoke suits in Sydney for many years.

The last time I did though I gave a new tailor a chance called Germanicos Tailors! I was a little sceptical at start because their prices seemed too low compared to all the other bespoke tailors I had used in the past ie: cutler..

However I am pleased to say it was the best suit I have ever had! in terms of fit, fabric and style! At the same time it was the most cost effective bespoke suit I have received in Sydney...

I highly recommend them, you can find them at: tailor.com.au

Good luck, let me know how u go

Originally Posted by sydney lawyer

I would like some information from people who have experience of tailors in Sydney. Who are considered the best? How much should one expect to pay for a bespoke suit?

There is a tailor near my work. His name is Sam Finocchiario, in Bathurst Street, Sydney. Has anyone heard of him? What is he like? He says people travel from Melbourne to have suits made by him. Someone said they saw Bob Carr walking into his premises. I had Sam do some repairs, but I have no idea what he is like as a cutter and stylist.

I have had a suit made by Ianni Bros in Macquarie Street in the past. I was not satisfied. It was a comfortable fit, but there was no styling. I am short and overweight, and I would like a suit to make me look better, not worse.

Which opens up another issue. How does one instruct a tailor? Does one need to do heaps of research and study? What if you don't know exactly what you want in terms of style?

I have heard of Cutler, but I am not interested in paying over $5,000 for a suit. By the time I get a waistcoat and extra trousers, I will be bankrupt!

...........................................

 

[TheWraith]

Originally Posted by Banker1

Hi Sydney Lawyer,

I'm a couple of years late, however I hope this information reaches you well!

I have been getting tailor made Bespoke suits in Sydney for many years.

The last time I did though I gave a new tailor a chance called Germanicos Tailors! I was a little sceptical at start because their prices seemed too low compared to all the other bespoke tailors I had used in the past ie: cutler..

However I am pleased to say it was the best suit I have ever had! in terms of fit, fabric and style! At the same time it was the most cost effective bespoke suit I have received in Sydney...

I highly recommend them, you can find them at: tailor.com.au

Good luck, let me know how u go



...........................................

They're offshore (Asia) MTM, like many of the new wave of tailors appearing online from Australia (Bentex, Pernac, Garrods Lane and a myriad of others).

 

[GuidoWongolini]

WUT THE CUSS..

Bespoke & MTM & OTR are not the same..

Sheesh..

Now all we need is for the Waratahs to win the next 2 games in SA..

 

[TheWraith]

Exactly, though most of these new online Australian MTM houses promote themselves as bespoke. Pernac rightly calls their suits MTM, though, and there's no doubt others who correctly identify their services.

 

[__PG__]

Originally Posted by TheWraith

They're offshore (Asia) MTM, like many of the new wave of tailors appearing online from Australia (Bentex, Pernac, Garrods Lane and a myriad of others).

I spoke to Germanicos, I was told that their workshops are in Portugal.

 

[TheWraith]

Originally Posted by __PG__

I spoke to Germanicos, I was told that their workshops are in Portugal.

If that's true, then that's a recent change, because they previously used to clearly identify their work as Asian sourced.