SWD Discussion Thread for Tailoring

[whorishconsumer]

I haven't actually watched it, only seen pictures in menswear discussions.

A similar sentiment is shared by hetero males of a certain age regarding the movie Return To The Blue Lagoon.

 

[oulipien]

It's a bdsm movie, basically. And it's great.

This is pretty reductive, but it is great.

 

[d4nimal]

I tried on a bunch of sportcoats and found pretty much the Ur tweed herringbone jacket, which was a 70s Polo with wider lapels. It was a bit steep for me at the moment at $350, so I didn't even ask the price on the outerwear.

Still might swing back and pick up the sport coat, but probably not.

Out of curiosity, was it a lot more expensive than the J. Crew jackets you tried out? $350 would be a bit steep for me also, but I find it interesting that we/I often don't value vintage the same way as a new garment, even if it's from a mall chain. Don't know if that's true in your situation, but I definitely struggle with it.

 

[whorishconsumer]

Out of curiosity, was it a lot more expensive than the J. Crew jackets you tried out? $350 would be a bit steep for me also, but I find it interesting that we/I often don't value vintage the same way as a new garment, even if it's from a mall chain. Don't know if that's true in your situation, but I definitely struggle with it.

No, definitely cheaper. I'm just trying to slow my roll, especially now that I've already bought a few sportcoats. Recession and all.

 

[Superb0bo]

Interesting wide-shoulder discussion! Im on the fence, I like it in the Yohji style, but not sure if it would work on me. That said, I have been considering this Our legacy heavy melton coat. Thoughts?

 

[FlyingHorker]

Interesting wide-shoulder discussion! Im on the fence, I like it in the Yohji style, but not sure if it would work on me. That said, I have been considering this Our legacy heavy melton coat. Thoughts?

I don't care for the details; I think I've seen one too many mall brand topcoats and I'm soured on normal single-breasted coats like these.

I dig the broader lapels and the overall silhouette though.

I'm biased against flap pockets on most coats though, and I feel like patch pockets look better on damn near every coat.

I like NMWA's Chesterfield coat in Yak as an example.

Also, I checked the measurements on your melton coat, and Our Legacy's sizing recommendations, and they line up perfectly for the coat I've been considering in the first place.

 

[sipang]

@Superb0bo Same here, the Our Legacy coat looks very generic and shapeless to me, the cloth is a bit dull and doesn't look heavy enough. Hard to judge the fit there but it manages to appear to big and too small at the same time. OL styling might be partially to blame though.

I think in most cases a thicker/spongier fabric with some amount of texture (more than plain melton) works much better for overcoats. It's that or wool gabardine, no middle ground.

Are you specifically in the market for a black single breasted coat?

 

[double00]

@Superb0bo Same here, the Our Legacy coat looks very generic and shapeless to me, the cloth is a bit dull and doesn't look heavy enough. Hard to judge the fit there but it manages to appear to big and too small at the same time. OL styling might be partially to blame though.

I think in most cases a thicker/spongier fabric with some amount of texture (more than plain melton) works much better for overcoats. It's that or wool gabardine, no middle ground.

Are you specifically in the market for a black single breasted coat?

i agree with this ...

otoh : imagine if that was like a 4-button closure and you only did up the top button and let everything else open up , and then had a fringed scarf pop out underneath and maybe a safety orange watch cap and some gab pants with a bit of volume . i guess i think the styling is weak as you say .

 

[FlyingHorker]

@Superb0bo Same here, the Our Legacy coat looks very generic and shapeless to me, the cloth is a bit dull and doesn't look heavy enough. Hard to judge the fit there but it manages to appear to big and too small at the same time. OL styling might be partially to blame though.

I think in most cases a thicker/spongier fabric with some amount of texture (more than plain melton) works much better for overcoats. It's that or wool gabardine, no middle ground.

Are you specifically in the market for a black single breasted coat?

You have any experience with cashmere coats?

The idea of a coat that's as floppy and spongey as my lightweight wool raglan, but with warmth that's greater than camelhair sounds really appealing.

 

[sipang]

Can't really speak to the warmth element but my overall experience with pure cashmere coats is that don't really care about the extra softness and I'm not a fan of how it generally looks and drapes, feels too flimsy and delicate. I'm overgeneralizing and I wear the coats occasionally but I much prefer a good textured plain wool, some sturdy tweeds or if you want something fuzzier and really spongey a blend of wool and mohair/alpaca/angora etc

i agree with this ...

otoh : imagine if that was like a 4-button closure and you only did up the top button and let everything else open up , and then had a fringed scarf pop out underneath and maybe a safety orange watch cap and some gab pants with a bit of volume . i guess i think the styling is weak as you say .

That's cheating, most anything is salvageable with that combo. I think that'd be an ok scenario for a sub $100 thrifted coat but for something new at that price I'd want something that looks appetizing on its own.

 

[double00]

That's cheating, most anything is salvageable with that combo.

😿 i'm down but not out stay tuned

 

[Superb0bo]

What attracts me is that the oversized/slouchy shoulder top coat both brings to mind YY to some extent but also reminds me of the ancient coats my grandfather would wear to funerals (that I later found and wore as a teen goth ). A big, heavy single breasted coat. I have a couple of black raglan coats, so this would be different.

Here is the link btw https://www.ourlegacy.com/dolphin-coat-black-heavy-melton

I haven't tried it on, but OL used to have great meltons for Scandi winter weather. I do see your point about a more texturally exciting cloth though.

@Superb0bo Same here, the Our Legacy coat looks very generic and shapeless to me, the cloth is a bit dull and doesn't look heavy enough. Hard to judge the fit there but it manages to appear to big and too small at the same time. OL styling might be partially to blame though.

I think in most cases a thicker/spongier fabric with some amount of texture (more than plain melton) works much better for overcoats. It's that or wool gabardine, no middle ground.

Are you specifically in the market for a black single breasted coat?

 

[cocostella]

Phantom Thread is absolutely worth the watch. Definitely recommend.

 

[Clouseau]

Phantom Thread is absolutely worth the watch. Definitely recommend.

I love that director but, even if cinematography and actors are brilliant, I found the plot was going round and that the movie was overestimated.
His last one, « Licorice Pizza » is really great. Furthermore if like me you were a kid in the seventies.

This isn’t the Movie thread ?

 

[Epaulet]

Thought that you guys might dig this. We've been making custom sportcoats and suits out of our dyed Japanese Sashiko cotton for a little over a year.

It's a very cool product. We get the undyed white fabric from Japan. We dye and shrink it at our wash house in South Central LA. Then we ship it to Hickey Freeman in Rochester to make up into a bespoke garment. We offer a large range of colors in regular intervals, as we'll dye the open cloth alongside other ready-to-wear Sashiko jackets and chinos that we have going.

We got a really cool makeup today... the customer wanted a bit on a Ivy style on the jacket. So it's 3-roll-2, patch breast, and patch with flap hip pockets. Color is a muted olive sashiko, and we're delivering this with a matching trouser..