Suit silhouettes

[Manton]

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[Manton]

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[MilanoStyle]

If you are buying Kiton suit in retail, you can request Kiton to make suit for you with unpadded at no extra cost. I been told by Prez of Kiton that I should get Kiton suit unpadded.

 

[Giona Granata]

Manton, where do you live? Have you ever had a bespoke suit from a neapolitan tailor? Which tailor? I never had, but I have seen several. Maybe here my english is too poor for technical arguments. You speak about "coat": do you mean jacket (Giacca), single-double breasted? Ok, I will answer to you. I have seen single-breasted jackets, 3 buttons and 2&1/2, from Gennaro Solito; I also believe it is the same for other like Marigliano and Rubinacci. Anyway, there is no pad; absolutely. The construction is different, more complex; the jacket seems to "fly" on your shoulder. I saw two different jackets, like in the picture I attach:

The one on the left has the sleeves attached in a way we say "con rollino". The one on the right has the sleeves attached "a camicia", that is "like a shirt". This is a real jacket, not anything different. None of the two has padding, though the first one has a "rollino".

 

[Giona Granata]

Manton, what do you exactly mean with "giacca camicia"?

 

[Manton]

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[Alias]

I was thinking along the lines you were, Manton, with regards to shoulder padding. I can't imagine a jacket lasting very long without some shoulder reinforcement.

 

[Giona Granata]

Manton,

maybe there is a choice from the customer to have a small pad, or nothing at all; this is one of the other pleasure of the bespoke: to choose everything if you have the knowledge.

I read with great attention what you describe as "giacca camicia", and I think ti resemble pretty well what we call "giacca con maniche a camicia" (jacket with sleeves attached like a shirt). Probably in the first case, "pitched" shoulder, you are right: there is a small amount of padding, but not in the shoulder: in the upper part of the sleeves; I will check next time.

I don't understand why you call jacket with "maniche a camicia": "not a tailored coat ...". To me is a tailored coat with all effects; I see the jacket with "rollino" more formal, and this type of jacket more suited for sport and country jackets.

Anyway it is a great pleasure to discuss with you. I see you have a great knowledge and experience.

 

[Giona Granata]

I will add that many neapolitan tailors make jacket partially or completely without lining, especially for summer coats.

 

[Manton]

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[offshore observer]

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[Manton]

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[Giona Granata]

Ok Menton, now I got it. This is not the case. Infact a neapolitan tailor will never give up in "constructing" the jacket. In that case the sleeves, and just these, are attached "like in a shirt".
Also in the case of a jacket completely without lining, the canvas is covered by a piece of the same fabric of the jacket.

Offshore observer: yes, in effect it is not padding in that case, but wadding, if I understand well the term.

 

[Baz]

I must say, this has been a very informative thread. I know a great deal more about the silhouettes than I did before.

I would like to know a little more about which silhouette (or manufacturer, for that matter) favors a person of shorter stature. (I'm 5'8", 140lbs.) For example, would I want more waist suppression? A leaner chest? Etc.

Thanks,
Baz

 

[Manton]

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