How really should suit jacket length be established? In dressing the man, Flusser mentions two heuristics: "˜the extended thumb' and "˜cut the overall length in two'. He then goes on to say that a top tailor will use neither and trust his eye. In Clothes and the Man, he says that the jacket should be just long enough to fully cover the buttocks but otherwise minimize length to maximize leg line, except for short or tall men for whom the jacket should be longer. I've read here, at least Manton has stated, that the jacket should be on the shorter side (relative to "˜cut in half', I think?) for shorter men to lengthen the leg line, which makes sense to me. On the other hand, all of the tailors I have used recommend jackets that are longer than necessary to just cover my behind. (I am on the shorter side, 5'10". What are the real rules?