Stupid shirt sleeve lengths

[rdawson808]

Does anyone know why it is that virtually no two shirts I buy that say they are 17/34 are actually 34"? Am I just missing something? It seems to me that if you pick up a 16/34 and a 17/34 they would both have 34" sleeves. This is clearly not the case. My theory is that they actually make every sleeve the same length for a given size, but they shirt yokes are different based on neck size, so that throws off the total length.

And now after I've decided what size combination I really like the best (given the vagaries of sleeve lenght depending on neck size), I pick up a lovely shirt at Nordstrom (a JW Nordstrom label which I like) in a 17/34 and the sleeves hang nearly to my knuckles. I'm going to take the damned thing back and either exchange it or have their tailor fix it for free.

Do I just have to try on every single shirt I buy no matter where I buy it? BB seems to be the same way, as are the CT shirts I have. And I've given up buying shirts at SYMS etc (except for the nicest stuff) since they don't let you try them on at all. i really thought I could avoid trying them on at Nordys.

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[TheDroog]

I definitely have to agree with you on this one. I'm a 34 sleeve as well (15.5 neck) and finding a shirt with the right sleeve length is a total guessing game. I don't like paying for alterations once I've purchased something, which adds to the overall cost, so I try to find companies that get it right the first time.

Lands' End is one of the few companies that get the sleeve length right every time. I also have a Duncan Quinn shirt which has a perfect 34 sleeve.

 

[rdawson808]

Yeah, the cost is annoying. I will pay to have a very nice shirt altered (like the one I'm wearing and bitching about). But not something cheap. And I won't purposefully buy something that I know has to be altered.

My problem is undoubtedly that I won't do custom. I'm just too lazy to put up with the fixed costs (measurements, sending them back to Jantzen for slight changes, etc.) If I could afford to simply have someone measure me and make the perfect template, I'd do it. But I can't.

I am glad to know, however, that I'm not imagining this problem.

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[NoVaguy]

I don't have this problem within a shirt brand. All my BB's at 16x36 seem to be the same size, and the 16 x 36/37's seem to be an inch longer, which is what I expected.

 

[The_Foxx]

I'll add to this rant by saying there are few shirts with 34" sleeves to be had! I wear a size 16/34, and they are exceedingly difficult to find, especially in high end shirts. It takes a skilled tailor to remove the shirt cuff AND placket, and re-attach CORRECTLY in the requested length, I think (not to mention, this isn't a cheap alteration).

However, in your case you might have luck finding shirts you like in the lengths you require at Paul Stuart (especially on sale).

 

[TyskJohan]

Originally Posted by rdawson808

My problem is undoubtedly that I won't do custom. I'm just too lazy to put up with the fixed costs (measurements, sending them back to Jantzen for slight changes, etc.) If I could afford to simply have someone measure me and make the perfect template, I'd do it. But I can't.

Why not send them a shirt that does fit you well?

-TJ

 

[HomerJ]

A related complaint. I bought 2 RL Regent shirts in Classic Fit, 15 neck. The button cuff shirt fits nice, fairly trim and the french cuff shirt is a tent. How the hell can these both be Regent Classic Fit.

I put darts into the french cuff shirt taking in about 5" and it's still bigger than the button cuff shirt.

 

[DunninLA]

HomerJ, sorry for thread drift (well, not that sorry or I woudn't) --

Is darting a better alternative for tent slimming than opening both sides and resewing? Have you had any experience both ways?

As to shirt sleeve length, yes, I have also found that to be variable. If a little long, no big deal to me, as I simply have the cuff buttons made a little tighter. If a little short, I'm SOL.

My pet peave on shirtings is that I have the neck size, and the sleeve length. I rarely see the chest measure, or the shoulder seam-seam measure, which are two very important measures. Actually more important than sleeve length because they are more expensive to alter.

 

[Dewey]

My experience has been that different makers allow different amounts for "desired fit" (I put that in quotes) and shrinkage. I need a 33.5-34 shirt, and lots of 33s come 33.75. Some 33 lengths (e.g., my only Polo Regent Classic Fit, which is an athletic cut [huge chest, slimmer waist]) come as big as 34.50. Here obviously they made a shirt for men who like overlong sleeves -- or I guess perhaps the low-paid guest workers in their sweatshops were having a bad time with this batch of shirts.

Even when I go MTM a batch will arrive and all the sleeves will be a little different.

And, when I measure and re-measure, sometimes I get different numbers. It's not so easy to measure fabric ...

 

[rdawson808]

Originally Posted by Dewey

My experience has been that different makers allow different amounts for "desired fit" (I put that in quotes) and shrinkage. I need a 33.5-34 shirt, and lots of 33s come 33.75. Some 33 lengths (e.g., my only Polo Regent Classic Fit, which is an athletic cut [huge chest, slimmer waist]) come as big as 34.50. Here obviously they made a shirt for men who like overlong sleeves....


Okay, but then it's not a 33". It's something else--a "large" or something. That's why I avoid shirts that are only sized S/M/L/XL. When you take out a tape measure to see what length is ideal, you should be able to wear a shirt that matches that measurement without alterations. If you measure a 33" but want it longer then you should pick up a 34".

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[rdawson808]

Originally Posted by TyskJohan

Why not send them a shirt that does fit you well?

-TJ

Yeah, this would be the solution. But I admit to being lazy. Also, it seems like I'd have to send them 3 or 4 and pick out features that are ideal.

I may just have to break down and have my wife measure everything. The huge fixed cost will have to be paid.

[I've also heard too many complaints of bad service but that seems to have cleared up lately.]

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[Dewey]

Originally Posted by rdawson808

Okay, but then it's not a 33". It's something else--a "large" or something. That's why I avoid shirts that are only sized S/M/L/XL.
No, man, it's a 15.5 / 33. My point was this: Just because the tag says "33," that's no guarantee the sleeve will measure 33. I find they usually measure 33.75 in the cheaper RTW brands. And that's measuring split yoke to shoulder (or half the shoulder, same thing) plus down the upper edge of the sleeve (with the cuff buttoned). Which is, I think, the usual way. One thing I like about MTM is that I get what I want, exactly; one reason many complain about Jantzen's short sleeves, I suspect, is that many consider themselves a "true 33" (or some other size) when in fact they wear a "33" tagged shirt that measures 33.50. They ask for 33, they get it (or 33.25), and then they think it's too short. You cannot expect the tags to be right, for lots of reasons. And yes, I sympathize with you, it's hard to know what exactly you are going to get when you buy a shirt in your tagged size without trying it on. Most people do not care so much about the length of their sleeves, so a manufacturer that wants to please everyone and have high sales need not worry too much about whether or not their sleeves are exactly as tagged.