Still another "what should be my first bespoke shoe?" thread

[imatlas]

Hi all, I'm finally committing to trying the bespoke route, and I'm having some trouble making up my mind what style to begin with, and like so many others before me I am turning to the collective wisdom for help. At this point I'm trying to decide between a chelsea boot, an elastic sided shoe, or possibly a monk. I don't own any of these models, and I think it's unlikely I'll ever find a pair that fit me properly short of the bespoke route. Because of my fit issues (orthotics, need for a double-sole or a shank for a rigid sole), my shoe collection on the whole is made up of fairly clunky shoes, so I'm trying to come up with something sleek. Style requirements are: a chiseled toe, close welt, double-tapering-to-single sole (or a single beveled sole with a stiff shank), no laces. This pair will be black, as 90% of the shoes I now have are shades of brown or #8 cordovan and none of my current black shoes fit very well. I'd like to feel comfortable wearing these with jeans, navy, grey or black suits or slacks with a jacket. I already come close to overdressing for work so in the interest of toning it down (slightly!) I won't be getting a toe medallion or broguing. So far these are my leading candidates:

John Lobb London Elastic Sided Shoe

C&J Paris Chelsea 337 last

John Lobb Paris Chapel 8000 last Thank you in advance for your comments and suggestions.

 

[TheWraith]

Being a fan of the chelsea boot, I'd go with the John Lobb myself of those three listed.

 

[pledge]

I don't think you can go wrong with either the Cowdray or the Chapel as models for your new shoe. The Chapel is about as perfect as you can get as a RTW model, but if you can't make the fit work, then I vote for a bespoke version of the Chapel. Would you be going through JLP? If so, have you considered both the Amiel and Francisco (wholecut)? Keep us updated.

 

[imatlas]

Originally Posted by pledge

I don't think you can go wrong with either the Cowdray or the Chapel as models for your new shoe. The Chapel is about as perfect as you can get as a RTW model, but if you can't make the fit work, then I vote for a bespoke version of the Chapel. Would you be going through JLP? If so, have you considered both the Amiel and Francisco (wholecut)? Keep us updated.

Thanks, right now I'm actually toying with combining the Cowdray and the Chapel, effectively making a jodphur boot (double-monk ankle boot?). During the measuring session the maker suggested that because of the high degree of pronation in my feet we'd be better off with buckles, laces or a zipper for this initial shoe in order to provide enough support to keep my ankles upright. I'm trying to get away from laces, and I don't find zippers very attractive, so buckles it is!

 

[Film Noir Buff]

I would advise against a custom made monk. The chelsea boots are very nice.

 

[jon5986]

Hi Imatlas,

Firstly, where are you located? If America some of the top shoemakers are about to start their Spring trunk show visits to U.S.A. I would advise you to go and meet with a few of them and see their collection in person. That way you can get a feel for the design and style of each maker (as they do differ). Personally, I am a fan of the JL boot. It looks beautiful.

 

[Kuro]

Perhaps one of Cleverley's side elastic models?

 

[kolecho]

Personally, I would go for hard-to-fit models such as loafers, side elastic oxfords, monks, boots and the like.

 

[imatlas]

Originally Posted by Film Noir Buff

I would advise against a custom made monk. The chelsea boots are very nice.

Why? I've tried monks from several of the prominent makers featured on SF, but none of them have worked for me. If I want a monk, custom seems to be my only option.

 

[jon5986]

Originally Posted by Kuro

Perhaps one of Cleverley's side elastic models?

I love the Cleverley elastic sided model! Good choice......

 

[HRoi]

for me, the point of going bespoke would be to get a great fit on a shoe style that i lust after, but cannot fit RTW. as someone with his own pronation issues, i typically have problems with shoes that have narrow lasts and a more pointed toe. i vote for the JL Chapel or the JL Vale. perhaps even the Vass U-Last in an Austerity Brogue