Spano?

[YoungFogey]

Yes, David, please do tell us of your PERSONAL experiences with your NYC recommendations. How was the customer service? How large was Tip-Top's selection of cloths? What is so special about his selection? How does the suit fit you or your friend from New York? How would you describe Ercole's cut? What made you decide to go with these particular people?

Why were you unwilling to use Ercole's cloths?

Please be VERY specific.

 

[brescd01]

I apologize for sounding as if I have tried these shops: they were recommended and my feeling was that they would be good first stops. I recall someone's saying Ercole's selection of fabric was not fabulous, and this was such a wonderful characteristic of Centofanti when I visited, I do not think I could buy a suit without a huge selection fo cloth to choose from. Also, there is a large amount of money to be saved by purchasing suit fabric and bringing it to the tailor. There was a post about why Tip Top has good prices, that it is a "jobber" for instance, this was by Leonard.

I am not in NYC and since I was happy with Centofanti and his prices are agreeable for bespoke, were I to buy another bespoke garment I would certainly go back to him.

 

[Urban Warrior]

WOW. Not sure if recomending the work of anyone for anything that you have never used or reviewed personally is such a good idea?

?

 

[Shirtmaven]

Mr. Spano has very interesting taste in fabric. about a year ago I was offered the woolen inventory that he had purchased while at Bergdorf. I could not imagine what was spent. Wonderful fabrics from the finest English mills in patterns that would make Alan Flusser drool. I just could not imagine why he would buy full peices (50m) of sport coat fabric that maybe only two or three people in the world might wear. At his prices. Hey, on sale at 80% off you can afford to take a chance.

Tip top buys left over fabrics from Mills and manufacturers in Italy. Great quality at great prices. I have bought italian shirtings from them.

I have one ercole suit. It is threadbare after 10 years of heavy use. I don't want to throw it away.

 

[brescd01]

Urban Warrior, you are acting true to your name. I was not "recommending their work," I was writing what I would try were I in NYC. And if I were in NYC, that is what I would do. If I had the money, I would buy a Porsche. I would also sleep with Lara Fabian. I have experience with neither.

 

[emsny]

Shirtmaven, thanks for the note on Spano's fabrics. When I spent ten minutes in his corner of Saks, I thought I'd be able to find something if I took care: something a bit retro in look but not over the top (as some of the ones I saw were). Have you had an opportunity to assess the workmanship in a Spano suit? On this and the askandy forum, I've read only one or two specific comments on this.

 

[Phil]

Well, I will chime in on this one, since I own a Spano Norfolk jacket. Picked out the fabric (a wonderfully heavy and coarse black/white donegal), and had his people make me a Norfolk jacket out of it. The craftsmanship is top notch, in my opinion. I buy only MTM and custom, so I think I have some expertise, but ofcourse not nearly as much as some on this board. The coat was finished off with a special touch I had asked for - a few inches of black moleskin lining the sleeve, down by the working buttons. That way if I wanted to unbutton them and roll the sleeve back a bit, I would have really nice soft moleskin there as a little bit of extra style. I love the coat, it is absolutely indestructable. Its really become a great traveling/drinking/out in the country coat, and I get compliments on it all the time.

Mimmo is a very interesting person, he actually used to a policeman of sorts, back in Italy. He loves the 1930's, and will gladly show you lots of clippings from Esquire that he bases his designs on. He is a salesman, first and foremost. He is hilarious, and has a great personality. I doubt he knows much about tailoring, but so what. His workers, however, are the most sour, demeaning people I have ever encountered though. I wish he had nicer employees, it would make the whole experience more pleasurable. His clothes are not for everyone though. He is very adamant about how his clothes should fit, and he will not stray from it. Its very 1930s, broad shoulders, drappy, flowing pants. Its elegant, no doubt, but you really have to have the right kind of body to pull it off. a 46 short is going to look ridiculous, in my opinion. a 40 long, athletic guy is going to look much better. This also has to be taken into account when you buy from a certain company.

 

[emsny]

Thanks, Phil.

 

[JordanB]

I'm a fan of the way Spano cuts his suits. My wedding tuxedo was an OTR Spano sample at 80% off that fit me perfectly after a little tailoring.

I'd love to get a Spano suit, but barring an 80% off sale, he's out of my price range. Is there a place in New York to get such a cut for no more than $1000-$1500? Could Mr. Ned do it? Ercole? Flusser OTR?

 

[Holdfast]

What a thread resurrection, JordanB!

Re: Spano. I bought a 38S 100% silk suit off eBay that was a good price, but man, did it require a lot of alterations (probably because it was a DB). I'm still not entirely happy with the overall effect. Here's a pic from earlier this year, to give an example of the style:

 

[NewYorkBuck]

Cant speak of his fabrics, but about a year ago (in Saks) he convinced me to try on a jacket that was somewhere around a 42, and Im somewhere around a 44. I could barely put my arms out in front of me. He keep reassuring me that it "fit". I think Ill stick w Raphael.....

 

[JordanB]

Originally Posted by Holdfast

What a thread resurrection, JordanB!

Re: Spano. I bought a 38S 100% silk suit off eBay that was a good price, but man, did it require a lot of alterations (probably because it was a DB). I'm still not entirely happy with the overall effect. Here's a pic from earlier this year, to give an example of the style:



It's also for these reasons that I'd like to do something closer to the MTM route. I guess I'm looking for Spano's style with a MTM fit and a good price. And a free pair of shoes on top of that would be nice.