Skipping bespoke fittings?

[Oligarch]

Working on my first bespoke suit with a tailor that has a permanent presence (cutter, sales) in the West but production in Asia.

When making my enquiries with the owner, I was told that the process would be 4 total fittings over 10-12 weeks (initial visit, first fitting 6 weeks later, a second fitting, and final/collection). They have a few cutters, and I’d asked if I could work with a specific one, and was assured I could.

I was called in for my first fitting, and had to reschedule, when I learned that had I made my original appointment, it would have been with a cutter different than the one I’d requested. Rescheduled for when the cutter I’d asked for was available. When he greeted me, he asked if we’d met before – particularly odd since part of the measuring process (where he was present along with another cutter) involved taking pictures of my stance, etc. I’m not 100% sure if he actually cut my pattern, or if I’m just being paranoid since he probably sees dozens of clients a week.

Had the first fitting where the trousers were largely done (sans side adjusters and I think pockets), and jacket partly done (canvas showing, but sleeves roughly attached, no buttons). Had assumed this was a first basted fitting, but when I was leaving, cutter said final suit would be ready in 6 weeks.

Is it usual for tailors to cut out a fitting like this? Will this compromise results? If a tailor has skipped from basted to forward fitting, is there anything that cannot be undone?

To my eye, the trousers looked very good -- far better than any MTM suit trousers I have. The jacket’s shoulders protruded too far out. Thinking it a first fitting that I assumed was more for tailor’s benefit (balance, etc), I wasn’t too talkative, and didn’t get a full 360 view. Obviously, I regret the latter now, but it was all pretty quick.

Just wondering if I should be asking for another intermediate fitting, or just wait for final one and not take delivery until fully satisfied with fit. This is a lighter weight suit and further delays mean less use this summer, but obviously having a garment that looks excellent is the priority.

I'm very new to all this, so any thoughts appreciated!

 

[dieworkwear]

It really depends on the tailor. Some tailors do three fittings; some skip to the forward.

The shoulders are usually cut wider at the forward fitting because it's easier to take in the shoulders than let them out (as well as easier to fit that way). But once the jacket is delivered to you, you should be able to get one more fitting -- just a check-up to see if everything looks good. Usually there's enough allowance in the seams to change whatever is needed, although certain things will bet set (e.g. buttoning point).

I don't know if forcing your tailor to do one more fitting helps either way. I would leave the process to him. In the end, a good tailor will give you a good garment; a bad tailor will give you a bad garment. Not sure pushing someone to do an extra fitting changes that.

 

[Orsini]

Aren't you paying for four fittings? If they cut one of them out, you're being cheated. Sue them!

 

[GBR]

Its normal if you have commissioned suits from the tailor before. If not you appear to have chosen a cheapskate tailor and will get what you pay for. Suggest you have a sharp word with the man.

It would also suggest that you have been served and measured by a salesman and not a cutter. Serious mistake. A cutter should measure to get a first hand view of your figuration, that cannot be translated into words satisfactorily.