Shirt makers in Australia

[Sator]

Charles Nakhle bespoke shirt. Shirting by Tessitura Monti Spa (S100?). Double seam stitching by machine. Fused collar and cuff (Charles doesn't believe in or like canvassed cuffs - he knows what Alex Kabbaz thinks of this but disagrees):

Shoulder. Fit is much closer than on the Hejda shirt pictured above:



Pattern matching on sleeves:



Split yolk:



Fused collar (cutaway in this instance) with mother of pearl buttons:



Charles' shirts are immaculately fitted through the waist.

 

[itsstillmatt]

I am interested in why he prefers a fused collar and cuff. My shirtmaker prefers as soft an interlining as possible, and definitely compromises the crispness that you see in most good shirts for a collar that almost rolls like a buttondown. Different strokes, but it is something that I really like.

Link cuffs?

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by iammatt

I am interested in why he prefers a fused collar and cuff. My shirtmaker prefers as soft an interlining as possible, and definitely compromises the crispness that you see in most good shirts for a collar that almost rolls like a buttondown. Different strokes, but it is something that I really like.

Link cuffs?

Same as per Alex Kabbaz. He doesn't like the waviness. Charles prefers top quality German fusing for its extra crispness. He says if done correctly then you will never see bubbling. In fact he cringes a little when you mention canvassed collar/cuffs to him.

Remember we are talking shirts here not coats. Fusing is considered a viable alternative as Alex Kabbaz will tell you - as long as the fusing is of the best quality. Charles' German fusing machine is apparently made by a subdivision of BMW specifically for artisanal shirtmakers.

Link cuffs - my preference. I prefer the lightness compared to French cuffs. It's cooler in the Australian summer, as well as being a little personal signature.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by Sator

Same as per Alex Kabbaz. He doesn't like the waviness. Charles prefers top quality German fusing for its extra crispness. He says if done correctly then you will never see bubbling. In fact he cringes a little when you mention canvassed collar/cuffs to him.

Remember we are talking shirts here not coats. Fusing is considered a viable alternative as Alex Kabbaz will tell you - as long as the fusing is of the best quality. Charles' German fusing machine is apparently made by a subdivision of BMW specifically for artisanal shirtmakers.

Link cuffs - my preference. I prefer the lightness compared to French cuffs. It's cooler in the Australian summer, as well as being a little personal signature.
I agree that the quality is the same in fused/canvas shirts. I actually like the floppiness of a soft collar and the relaxed look that it gives, but fusing definitely can give a much cleaner look. The shirt looks well done.

 

[California Dreamer]

Originally Posted by Sator

I just got back from visiting Charles and he just happened to mention that he is making a trip to Melbourne in the next couple of weeks. He is going to be making shirts for some senior managerial staff at the NAB and other staff members.

So I mentioned the interest on SF. He will probably go on a Friday and stay until Sunday night. Charles will be contactable via mobile (0414 289 645) and you will be able to visit him at his hotel room where you will be able to see sample shirts and swatches. If the trip is successful he might make it a regular fixture.

Can you guys please make suggestions for a good location that would suit everyone eg easy to access, find parking etc. I will keep forum members posted with exact details.

I will post pictures of his work later tonight.
I don't drive to the conservative business dress much, but I'd say that the best value parking is in the Casino car park. So anywhere in the Casino complex or Docklands would be pretty handy. NAB's HO is at Docklands, if that's any help.

Shame I'm on holidays. NAB are a major client, and it would be good to put a few of their less sharp dressers Charles' way.

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by iammatt

I agree that the quality is the same in fused/canvas shirts. I actually like the floppiness of a soft collar and the relaxed look that it gives, but fusing definitely can give a much cleaner look.

The shirt looks well done.

Thanks Matt. Not bad for a $150 US shirt methinks. In fact I would recommend Charles to anyone who passes by this neck of the woods for business or pleasure.

Yes I can imagine that a canvassed shirt would be great for a more casual look. Charles also mentioned that his business is so small it would be hard to get through the orders if he regularly made canvass construction shirts. He says he has the canvas material in stock but I think he is too in love with his German fusing machine. In fact he asked me not to reveal too many details/secrets.

 

[Sator]

Originally Posted by California Dreamer

I don't drive to the conservative business dress much, but I'd say that the best value parking is in the Casino car park. So anywhere in the Casino complex or Docklands would be pretty handy. NAB's HO is at Docklands, if that's any help.

Shame I'm on holidays. NAB are a major client, and it would be good to put a few of their less sharp dressers Charles' way.

Thanks. I will pass that on to Charles the next time I drop by.

And send guys to him. If he gets enough business Charles said he might go to Melbourne a couple of times a year. His margins are razor thin with a final profit of around $30 AUD per shirt and he works long hours - frequently into the wee hours to get orders done. Melbourne is a chance to get a breather taking his wife for a rare outing mixing business with pleasure. I am sure he'd also appreciate tips for restaurants etc too.

 

[California Dreamer]

For restaurants - Vue de Monde, although he'll need wads of cash.

I'm flying out of the country tomorrow, so I have no opportunity to put people onto him.

 

[royal618]

Originally Posted by Khoa

Are you still going to post some pictures Sator? Thanks.
Bump

 

[Sator]

already posted.

Am I going to post more?

No

 

[royal618]

Originally Posted by Sator

already posted.

Am I going to post more?

No

Apologies, I didn't read the last page.

 

[Sator]

I was talking to Charles today, and he asked me to let you guys in Melbourne know that he will be in Melbourne next week. If you ring to make an appointment he you will be able to go and be measured up on Wednesday, 21st February.

He will be staying at the Pacific Hotel, Little Bourke St.

Please contact him on 0414 289 645 for an appointment. Charles can also be contacted at his Sydney store on (02) 9633 4696.

He will be there till 7PM Wednesday, when he will have to head to the airport.

If there is enough demand, he may extend his stay another day.

 

[royal618]

Cheers Sator. I've got to get a new shirt for my wedding day made as my next item, so I'll give him a go.

 

[misterjase]

I was interested to read that Henry Buck's was founded as a shirtmaker and that continue to make a portion of range in Melbourne.

Does anyone here use Henry Bucks for shirts? What are thoughts?

 

[GuidoWongolini]

Originally Posted by misterjase

I was interested to read that Henry Buck's was founded as a shirtmaker and that continue to make a portion of range in Melbourne.

Does anyone here use Henry Bucks for shirts? What are thoughts?
- SHITE... The cut is old & boxy