Shirt makers in Australia

[Python]

Due to the retirement of my usual shirtmaker, I'm currently in the market for a new custom shirtmaker in Australia. To those in the know, how do the following compare:

Zentini
Harrolds
Hejda

Quality (single-needle stitching, etc.)? Materials (choices and quality of fabric; MOP buttons, etc.)? Pricing (for MTM or bespoke)?

Are there any others you could suggest? I prefer to be measured up in person and see swatches of fabric myself, rather than doing it online.

Thanks

 

[phaedrus]

What city are you located in?

 

[Python]

Melbourne

 

[spectre]

I use Hemden in Armadale

 

[California Dreamer]

I've also used Hemden and found them quite good. Charles Edward, in Crossley St, has a good rep, although I have not used him. I recently got a MTM shirt from Zentini for a most reasonable $240. They offer a very limited range and service, and I would only see them as a budget-priced alternative. Basically I went to them because I was in a hurry and gave up waiting for Jantzen. They turned my order around in 3 days at a very busy time, which was impressive. I posted a picture of the Zentini shirt (pink and white stripes) here: http://www.styleforum.net/showthread...ht=anniversary

 

[Python]

Doesn't Hemdan use stiff, fused collars and cuffs which wear out fairly quickly? Also, do any of these shirtmakers they match patterns? I'm rather fond of patterned shirts and prefer them to be aligned...

 

[spectre]

Originally Posted by Python

Doesn't Hemdan use stiff, fused collars and cuffs which wear out fairly quickly? Also, do any of these shirtmakers they match patterns? I'm rather fond of patterned shirts and prefer them to be aligned...

They use fused collars, which in IMO are better. They are not stiffer than they need to be and don't wear out quickly. If they do eventually they can be replaced, as can any part of the shirt which becomes damaged. Their pattern-matching is exemplary. They'll even make detachable collars so you could get a spread for business and a button down for casual.

 

[Python]

Hmm... might be worth checking it out, then. What is their fabric selection like (especially the finer grades)? Do they also work in silk and voile? What are their prices like?

Thanks for the info... BTW does anyone have any experience with Hejda (an Adelaide-based bespoke shirtmaker who frequently visits Melbourne)?

 

[spectre]

Hemden charge around $300. They do at least three fittings and have a huge range of fabrics, from basics to superfine, Swiss, Egyptian cotton etc and one or two quite heavy silks. I've met the lady from Hejda (can't remember her first name) and have seen a shirt she made for a customer but have no personal experience. It also looked very, very good and her price was around $240. She has fewer fabrics but has all the bases covered - how many different shades, patterns does one need in any case?

 

[Python]

Thanks for the info - much appreciated. I will definitely pay Hemden a visit.

With Hemden's shirts, is it just the collar which is fused, or collar and cuffs (the cuffs always seem to wear out first)? Do they have removable collar stays (which I prefer, since it makes ironing and washing easier)? Also, can they take special requests for cuffs (e.g. James Bond-style turnbacks, three-button barrel cuffs, etc.)?

Also, before I book an appointment with Hejda next time she comes to Melbourne, how is the construction of her shirts? Are the collars and cuffs fused? Does she use mother-of-pearl buttons? How is the pattern matching? And, again, are special cuffs available on request?

Finally, regarding Zentini's shirts, what are they like in terms of pattern-matching and overall construction (even though the choices of fabric are limited)? Are their solid-colour shirts worthwhile, since they don't require pattern matching?

Again, thanks for the info.

 

[spectre]

Originally Posted by Python

Thanks for the info - much appreciated. I will definitely pay Hemden a visit.

With Hemden's shirts, is it just the collar which is fused, or collar and cuffs (the cuffs always seem to wear out first)? Do they have removable collar stays (which I prefer, since it makes ironing and washing easier)? Also, can they take special requests for cuffs (e.g. James Bond-style turnbacks, three-button barrel cuffs, etc.)?

Also, before I book an appointment with Hejda next time she comes to Melbourne, how is the construction of her shirts? Are the collars and cuffs fused? Does she use mother-of-pearl buttons? How is the pattern matching? And, again, are special cuffs available on request?

Finally, regarding Zentini's shirts, what are they like in terms of pattern-matching and overall construction (even though the choices of fabric are limited)? Are their solid-colour shirts worthwhile, since they don't require pattern matching?

Again, thanks for the info.

Hemden has fused the side of the collars and cuffs which show and the underside is unfused, but they will do whatever you want. If your cuffs wear they can be replaced quite cheaply so the life of a fairly expensive shirt can be extended. They'll do whatever cuff or collar style you want. I started with removable collar stays then got sick of pulling them in and out and misplacing them, so I switched to sewn in stays and I feel they're better. I didn't closely examine Hejda's shirt, only noticed it looked good.
Afraid I know nothing about Zentini. Good luck.

 

[OMG]

I used to have my shirts made at Hemden (over about 15 years) as a somewhat naive purchaser. Since lurking on this forum I must say that there are much better options. I have used Charles Edward and Henry Bucks, but took a trip to sydney and now order over the phone from Charles Nahkle. I was made a number of shirts by Hemden that were allegedly Sea Island`cotton. Now that I know what to look for I have serious doubts. Eugene Notermans is a little too unctuous for my liking.

 

[Sator]

I have never used Hemden as they charge more than Charles Nahkle bespoke. Others such as Aus_MD used to go to Hemden but have reported much disappointment and like me prefers to go to Charles. For the record, Charles rolls his eyes towards the heaven when you mention Hemden. He thinks they have no idea about shirtmaking.

Charles has a steadily growing number of forumites who have tried Hemden, Brioni, Borrelli MTM, John Cutler etc and have decided to replace their old shirts with those made by him. Some of these forum members come from interstate. Once he has your measurements he will send out swatches.

Charles is an old countryman and colleague of Alex Kabbaz with similar ideas about shirtmaking. I have been told that Alex Kabbaz has privately directed Australian forumites to Charles. After I PMed Alex Kabbaz at Charles' request he agreed to send out a sample shirt to him. So if you go to Charles in the next few weeks you might even get to see a real Alex Kabbaz shirt too!

 

[Matt]

curious....

Have any of you guys with ~A$300 Australian made shirts also ordered ~A$60 shirts from Jantzen?

If so, how do they compare?

 

[California Dreamer]

I've done both, but it's really too early to compare them. The Hemden shirt I got was a formal shirt to go with dinner jacket, and I haven't had the opportunity to wear it much. Similarly the Jantzen is too new to be much of a guide as to durability etc. Both fit fine first go. The Jantzen is pretty impressive given that Eugene had the advantage of measuring me in person and having 3 fittings.

I had to push Eugene not to fuse the french cuffs on my shirt. I'd read Alex saying that was always a mistake, and I had to insist. I quoted Alex at him, and he did at least seem to recognise who he was, and went along with it.

All up, I'm happy with both shirts, but the Jantzen is an incredible deal at the price. It costs about the same shipped here here as the cheapest Van Heusen or Pelaco from DJs, yet it's MTM and there is a much wider choice of fabric and styles. I'm visiting HK and getting Ricky to take my measurements in person. Once that's done, I can't see myself going back to Hemden. When I have a lot of money for a splurge, I might try Charles Edward or Nahkle.