Sewing machine marks on high end RTW shoes, bespoke shoes?

[jmonroestyle]

During the closing process of constructing shoes, there is a small wheel on a sewing machine by the needle that puts pressure on the vamp leather. I noticed on some mid level shoes, this wheel sometimes leaves a marking in the leather uppers, parallel to the seams. (see photos.)

On some shoes, the markings are more pronounced than others. I imagine it depends on the leather, and the amount of tension on this wheel. I am guessing that this tension can be adjusted, like the sewing foot on home sewing machines?

I have seen this marking on some UK shoes, such as Trickers, Alfred Sargent, and Grenson.

Normally I never send back a pair of shoes for defects, unless they are really bad (like really large and ugly fat wrinkles). I just touch up any blemishes with polish or dye, and remove excess glue, and trim hanging threads etc.

I am guessing that if one pair of shoes has these sewing machine marks, there is a good chance another pair of the same shoes would have them also, as they may have been closed on the same machine.

I have also seen these marks to varying degrees on some of my bespoke cowboy boots. They don't really bother me. However, I was curious if these marks ever show up on high end RTW shoes such as John Lobb, Edward Green, J.M. Weston, or even high end bespoke shoes.

I don't mean for everyone to go through their entire shoe collections looking for sewing machine marks. However, I was wondering if anyone has noticed these marks, and is bothered by them.

On brogue shoes they almost look like they are part of the design.

Your thoughts?

Jess

 

[lee_44106]

Funny you bring this up. I always notice these little marks on all my shell cordovan shoes

Why? I have no clue.

 

[grimslade]

Originally Posted by lee_44106

Funny you bring this up. I always notice these little marks on all my shell cordovan shoes

Why? I have no clue.

Me too, on shell. I assume it's something to do with the consistency, for lack of a better word, of the leather. Didn't Ron Rider once note that shell was susceptible to picking up the weave from polishing cloths?

 

[greekgeek]

+1 on seeing the marks on shell uppers, also a pair of corrected grain wingtips.

At first I thought of it as a defect but considering that I can't really notice it during wear, I am not bothered by it.

As an aside, I do not see these marks on any of my vintage shell shoes. Either sewers (sp?) tensioned the wheel more precisely back then or the marks disappear over time.