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Scent/Fragrance of the Day thread

Discussion in 'Health & Body' started by Dmax, Aug 22, 2007.

  1. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

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    Really like this one. Haven't bought a bottle, but I was really impressed with it.

    On my Chanel list currently I want no. 19 EdP and parfum, eau premiere, and also a a few of the Les Exclusif gigantic bottles. Still waiting until I finish up all my old bottles before I buy anew, though!

    Others on the "must have" list for full bottles now are (as mentioned above) Malle's Portrait of a Lady and parfum de therese.
     


  2. Dane

    Dane Senior member

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    Found some vintage L'Heure Bleue EDC yesterday, so wearing that today. Not quite up to par with the extrait, but still very nice. I can't believe people are paying hundreds of dollars for Creed and the like, while vintage (or even new) Guerlain and Chanel can be had for a fraction. To each their own I guess.
     


  3. willpower

    willpower Senior member

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    Monsieur Balmain - Decent but dated
     


  4. Notreknip

    Notreknip Senior member

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    In response to Rach, sort of:

    Firstly, I can definitely see the trends that you spoke of evolving.

    I hate blind buying full bottles; it's silly really. You end up being forced to love something because you've spent money on it. The hype can quickly begin to shape one's tastes. Blind buying small splits (10-30mL) still sucks, but really - when you're in the middle-of-nowhere - there is no other option.

    The swap box was a Godsend for me in that regard. I got to sniff a lot of stuff that just doesn't exist nearby. (FWIW, I'd get laughed at if I spend my rare and precious time in NY, LV, etc. in the stores smelling perfume.)

    I actually wore Malle's Portrait of a Lady two days ago with much love (thanks to the swap box). I walked by my laundry pile yesterday and caught a bit of lingering rose from 4-5 feet away. Impressive. I'm no expert by any means (particularly with rose scents) but to me POAL is the Montale Black Aoud that I want to wear but just can't handle.

    Today is a rainy day, so, continuing the Malle "trend", I've got some Musc Ravageur on.

    Oh, and to bring this post full-circle, I've never had a chance to smell Cuir de Russie, but I love Sycamore and Coromandel. I'd be up for a CdR split anytime.
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2011


  5. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

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    ^I approached POAL with skepticism, only because seeing the notes, and knowing that the Oriental field is SUPER saturated (and has been for decades), I didn't really see what Ropion could do to need yet ANOTHER one. The usual base notes... rose, amber, patchouli, spice/incense, etc. ... I rolled my eyes at first. I didn't really see why we needed more orientals, after Opium, Le Baiser de Dragon, etc.

    BUT, alas, was I wrong. I should have had more faith in a genius like Ropion. Amazing how he kept the fragrance "family" familiar to the nose, but really took it in a unique direction. Sweet without being cloying, dark without being weird, unique without being gimmicky. Really a standout. Along with TF Black Orchid, probably the only other time with a sweet/oriental scent in recent memory I've had true "love" at first sniff. Just too bad the stuff costs $300 a bottle for EdP. :(

    As for Musc Rav.; it's created by (perhaps) all time favorite parfumeur, Maurice Roucel. When I first heard of his name and saw his creations, it was strange because it turned out that almost all of my favorites and daily-wearers at the time were made by him. He has a very unique nose and I love what he does... a very sort of earthy, gourmandy, lush type of scent.

    As you said, too, there are so many new scents popping up all the time at premium prices, that you can never sample them all. SO, you end up playing the blind buy game, and that gets old (and $$$) REALLY fast.

    Today Tabac Blond extrait.
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2011


  6. Thomas

    Thomas Senior member

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    I hear ya. I gave up my reviewer gig at the beginning of the year when I realized that there ain't much new stuff that I think is worth the lucre. And I have enough old stuff to keep me smelly well into my dotage and beyond. I have enough Chanel alone to last until I get my AARP card!

    That said, there have been a few recent releases that I adored, but yeah - sifting through the lot of new, overpriced dreck to find the lucky masterpieces is hard for me to swallow.

    Today...ironically enough - Pure Havane. Really ought to give Tea for Two another sniff since they seem awfully alike.
     


  7. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

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    Yeah, T, if the end of the world comes, at least the Chanel frag archives will be safe in TX. (haha)

    As for "new" stuff, while there are certainly talented noses out there, also with these "super premium" scents coming out a dozen a week, they all try to 'outdo' each other with some random thing, and so the whole balance ends up being thrown off. Fragrance is really built around a few staple 'cores,' and subtlety is absolutely the key. As such, you get those expensive scents with tons of oud, rose, etc., and then just to be different, they try to throw something weird in... "monkey blood!" And the balance gets off. That's one issue I had/have with the TF PRivate Blend... there are some true knockouts, but the man put out 10-15 scents at once, and keeps putting out several new ones all the time (what were those musk ones?) There are some real misses in there. Likewise with CdG series stuff... they put out 6-7 at once, and one or two are great, with the others... meh. Gotta say the same for Montale. There's just not that much more you can do with oud. I'm waiting for "Montale Aoud Charlie" or "Montale Aoud Turnip."

    That's why you have to appreciate something like a tabac blond, or (more recently) a Bond Riverside drive... scents that have "clashes" in them that are unique. Tabac with its floral/leather/chypre you name it clash, and Bond RD with its spicey, yet gourmand, yet fresh appeal. Those balances don't come from just throwing a bunch of good ingredients into an expensive decanter.

    But, again, I'll say that I've heard good things about Killian, so I don't just mean him. I just hate him and who he is out of sheer spite and jealousy (at least I'm honest.) I'm tired of working; i want my daddy to be a cognac baron. :(
     
    Last edited: Jul 22, 2011


  8. sjmin209

    sjmin209 Senior member

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    Yesterday: Piper Nigrum
    Today: Dawn Spencer Hurwitz Cuir et Champignon
     


  9. Master-Classter

    Master-Classter Senior member

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    today Azzaro PH to finish my little blind buy bottle. Classic, but too mature for me.


    Re: discussion about high price frags, I see the trend too. lots of low end houses doing little 'exclusive' collections (D&G, Boss, etc) that are mostly junk, and even the more traditional guys like Chanel and Dior and Guerlain are starting to pump out frags at an alarming rate. Price doesn't equal quality; good design/composition is great and if there's a high price attached than so be it.

    The second I smelled Malle POAL I smiled and loved it right away. I was very tempted to keep it but assumed that if it went into the box a few other people would love it too and maybe want to do a split... :satisfied:

    also speaking of more recent standouts, I don't think I can really wear it but IMO one of the more intentionally weird but still good releases was Womanity. It's crazy but I still think it's actually good.
     


  10. Goombi

    Goombi Senior member

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    L'humaniste yesterday, Opus 1870 today.
     


  11. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

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    So, I have to brag... I hit the mother load today.

    Went walking around the city today (am in Japan for the summer) and took a train to a stop I'd never been to before, just to see what was there. Not far from the station was a dumpy little shop that had used clothes and stuff. These are my favorite Japanese shops, because you never know what you'll find.

    WELLLLL.... I found some vintage frags today at very, very good prices. I have no idea where they got them, but they were fresh, and cheap, and real. I got:

    Two 50ml bottles of vintage Givenchy Gentleman (the original formulation.) The new stuff is still good, but the old stuff is MUCH boozier, darker, dirtier. I've been on the hunt for one since having a decant AGES ago that disappeared too quickly, and then finding the recent formulation "off" in comparison (though still decent)

    Chanel no. 19 Load; this has long been a favorite, so finding these made me really happy:
    Two bottles PARFUM, both sealed. One in the atomizer spray, and the other in the standard 15ml stopper flacon.
    50ml rechargable bottle of EdT.
    50ml rechargable bottle of EdC
    75ml bottle of Voile Parfume (refreshing body mist; basically like the EdC, only without alcohol)

    Chanel no. 5 EdP 50ml recharge spray
    Chanel Cristalle EdP 100ml spray
    Chanel COCO EdT 30ml vintage/original bottle (1980's)

    Vintage Dior "Miss Dior" 50ml splash (this has been discontinued for ages in this type... damn it's an oakmossy chypre explosion)
    Dior "Diorissimo" 30ml EdT and EdC (vintage)
    Dior "Dolce Vita" 50ml EdT
    Guerlain Samsara parfum (15ml)
    Guerlain Samsara eau de parfum (30ml)
    Guerlain l'instant EdT (50ml)

    Others:
    Prada Infusion d'iris EdP (50ml)
    Cartier Pasha EdT (50ml)

    SOOO, wearing Chanel no. 19 parfum today. Holy hellfire it's just as wonderful as I remember it. Definitely go for the parfum or the EdT; the EdP is actually a wholly different formulation, much more floral/friendly. With the EDT, you get more green/crispness, with the Parfum, you get more of the leather/oakmoss/cedar base, which when added to the green, really creates a unique, wonderful experience.
     
    Last edited: Jul 26, 2011


  12. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

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    Figured I have to wear something from the mother load, so Chanel Cristalle today.

    What a weird one. I remember the weirdness (in a good way) of the original EdT, a combative sort of chypre/green scent that does for green what tabac blond or bandit did for leathers... sort of create weird conflicts and are very fun.

    The EdP is sort of just a conflict. It's green, but Polge must have decided to smooth out the harshness of the original with some fruit, but then there is a note that really can only be... basil?... that almost makes it foul and sour. BUT, not a "good" foul, like rose poivree or something.

    I like it, and am drawn to it, but it seems a failure on the whole when considered as a fully rounded scent. I want to try it in colder weather, to see if that weird basil-y note simmers down and reveals something deeper.

    Overall, Thomas, I'm thinking of you... as the scent is sort of like what a man who loves Yatigan might buy for his wife. OR, a man who loves yatigan might decide to wear when he wants something less spicey. Sort of "Yatagan d'un Eté."

    Definitely worth trying, but (usually) given the cost of Chanel frags, even online or at discount, I can't recomend it. I got this 100ml bottle for a song, so it's worth it... but I'd not spend anything more than $30 for a bottle.
     
    Last edited: Jul 24, 2011


  13. L'Incandescent

    L'Incandescent Senior member

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    That's the kind of thing I literally have dreams about! Wow.

    Rochas Femme vintage formulation for me today. Alas, I did not get an especially good deal on it.
     


  14. Parker

    Parker Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Nice finds, Professor. I wore Chanel Pour Monsieur today.
     


  15. rach2jlc

    rach2jlc Prof. Fabulous Dubiously Honored

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    ^Thanks!

    Wore the vintage Givenchy gentleman today on one arm, the currently available stuff on the other. I wanted to see how they stacked up, and if there was a difference. There WAS, and I will explain below (after a short preface.)

    First, one of the things that any "long term" fragrance fan will tell you is that you very quickly have to learn to take just about everything other fragrance fans tell you with a grain of salt. Perhaps it is something inherent to the evocative nature of scent itself, but almost without fail the longer distance between a positive scent experience and its failure to reoccur (for whatever reason, but in this case mostly because the scent gets discontinued) causes that experience to be aggrandized unrelated to the ACTUAL quality of the experience itself.

    What this means is that in only two of the perhaps twenty times in which I've encountered a discontinued or vintage fragrance that was DROOLED over or lusted after on fragrance forums, has it been anything but a disappointment, a feeling of wasted time, or just plain "meh."

    Not that I didn't "like" the scents; often I did. BUT, hearing people talk about how "wondrous" they were, how amazing the past was compared to the drivel produced today, etc etc etc made the whole thing sound great. Going through the effort to locate a bottle, often at great time and or expense, and I went, "this is IT?" I would rather have just put the money down on a scent available I knew I'd like.

    Giorgio Red for men, Havana, Yohji Pour Homme, Guerlain Derby, Nicole Miller for Men, Jil Sander Feeling Man, Chanel Bois Noir (sacrilege!) just to name a few. While some of these have been rereleased, keep in mind that in 2005 or so, people were paying $200-300 for Red or Havana. They are good scents, but they are NOT that great, and almost without fail there is a currently available "substitute" that is just as good, or better.

    The two exceptions? Balenciaga Pour Homme and the vintage Givenchy Gentleman. They are actually fairly similar to me, in type. Both are big, sweaty, boozy powerhouses of stink. The current Givenchy Gentleman doesn't feel like a reformulation (or not much), but it is much lighter, crisper, and with less of the funk and dirt of the original. Or, looking at the scent pyramid for it, it appears that the current version highlights the upper notes (tarragon/cinnamon/vetiver... and civet) while the original emphasizes the darker bottom (deeper civet, leather, patchouli, with a hint of cinammon).

    The new is more "kouros with patchouli." The older is more "bottle of bourbon poured over an unbathed spice seller." Older has a dirty, sexy, smooth depth and richness, while the newer has an almost sour sort of crispness... almost a "fizz." To put it less delicately, the older has none of that "piss note" that people get from Kouros, from Moustache, and from the current Givenchy Gentleman. The newer has the piss note, and (complete speculation) I wonder if this is due in part to (1) a different concentration or "type" of synthetic civet, and/or (2) a combination of said civet with more "crisp" notes like vetiver and cinammon, rather than the deeper leather/patchouli notes.

    If new is "Kouros avec patchouli," the old is almost like "Idole Lubin with stink." As they dry down, however, the same patchouli heart with civet comes through in both, though again "lighter" feeling in the newer.

    SO, I say all of this only to say don't NOT buy the new juice because you can't get the old; they ARE the same fragrance, and especially in the drydown come closer to one another. If you "like" the new, you'll absolutely adore the old. Why did they mess with it? I really have no idea, because they obviously didn't change it to make it more "appealing" to a contemporary nose... the new is just as "foul" as the old, only not as "good" foul (if that makes sense.) As such, my guess would be the change in legal restrictions on certain ingredients, and cost-savings measures on said raw ingredients, rather than an actual change of recipe, is to blame ((for example, the 2000 rerelease of Givenchy L'interdit was an ENTIRELY different fragrance than the 1957 one, designed to appeal to a new consumer. I don't think that's what's happening here, because the current GG is hardly "appealing" in a world full of D&G Light Blue and Acqua di Gio.)

    Here endeth the lesson, but only to say: never spend too much money on discontinued fragrances. If you get them cheaply, then fine. But, if you do it, don't do it blind, and not for premium $$$. You are almost guaranteed to be disappointed, and are buying more somebody ELSE'S evocative scent memory than an actual quality-related experience. I paid the equivalent of $9.50 for each of my 50ml sealed bottles (in box), so obviously I'm a happy camper. If somebody was asking $150 for an old bottle of GG, though, I'd say "forget it" and get BOND no. 9 "HOT ALWAYS" instead, or the aforementioned Idole Lubin.
     
    Last edited: Jul 25, 2011


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