Savile Row House Styles Guide

[MontyChapman]

Could someone explain the necessary tailoring terms and also introduce me to the house styles of the following Savile Row tailors?

I hope this could serve as a basic guide to those beginners out there (like me) who want to educate themselves with each tailor's house style and any must-know tailoring terms to glide in!

1. Gieves & Hawkes
2. Anderson & Sheppard
3. Huntsman
4. Henry Poole
5. Davies & Son
6. Welsh & Jefferies
7. Dege & Skinner
8. Norton & Sons

And any other prominent Savile Row tailors or any other Savile Row tailors you had experiences with!

 

[dieworkwear]

Two posts I've written that you may find useful

How to Understand Silhouettes (Pt. One)

One of the great things that has come out of menswear in the last twenty years is a better appreciation...

putthison.com

Understanding a Suit’s Silhouette

It’s common to hear people describe a suit’s silhouette in terms of its nationality. Suits are described as being American,...

putthison.com

This is about casualwear, but may help you think about clothes in terms of shapes.

How to Understand Silhouettes (Pt. Two)

You’ve probably read the phrase “fit is king,” but the truth is, fit is just the starting point — what...

putthison.com

Very generally speaking, there are two ends on Savile Row. Anderson & Sheppard is known for their softer shoulder, draped chest, and slightly rounder silhouette (all relatively speaking). On the other end, there's Huntsman, which has a stronger, more padded shoulder and X-shaped silhouette (Richard Anderson does this as well). Henry Poole is somewhere in the middle.

You can see some of these distinctions here

Six World-Class Tailors and Their House Styles

In the world of classic clothing, you can have a dozen navy suits and none of them will look the...

putthison.com

 

[MontyChapman]

Thank you so much, dieworkwear for your guides!

But I think this post could also benefit from a few lines each on the house styles from the members of styleforum to show the wideness of opinion!

 

[norMD]

Permanentstyle also has a general guide and style breakdowns from several tailors.

 

[usctrojans31]

There is so much subjectivity on the various houses and around what a man should look like. For example, one person may think the structured Huntsman look is classic masculinity while another may think it makes a man look like a stiff.

Simon does a good job in his style breakdown series.

 

[Diamondflame]

A lot has already been written on the various Savile Row styles; I’m not so sure if bringing them all under one thread is a good idea. Every house has its own quirks, either by virtue of tradition or in-house tailors’ own stylistic preferences. I wouldn’t necessarily call one better than another. It’s really up to the individual to find a style that flatters his own body figure. The learned ‘masters’ here can point us to the doors but the path you take is your own.

For instance, I own a Huntsman. The drape and silhouette are indeed exceptional but the quarters are an inch too long for my more modest height.