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Sartorial mythbusting

Discussion in 'Classic Menswear' started by apropos, Jan 12, 2010.

  1. Manton

    Manton RINO Dubiously Honored

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    The technical details of a suit are a tailor's job. Any man who is not a tailor and wants to be considered a tailor, is a geek and further cannot possibly understand the overall picture of clothing and style. What's worse is when said geek doesnt even know what he's talking about and makes things up to boot.[​IMG]

    And people say I'm mean to Sator. [​IMG] [​IMG]
     


  2. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Like the one on the A&S you cut open?

    Yes.

    [​IMG]
     


  3. edmorel

    edmorel Quality Seller!! Dubiously Honored

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    The Germans, who are obsessed with getting that line perfectly vertical all the way up and down have a way of dealing with it, but I don't think it would work with a belly of that size; by straightening the shoulder, which would eliminate some of the leaning, you throw some of the excess to the side instead of the front, where it is needed. I thunk stripes should be avoided for this type of figure for this very reason.

    makes sense. Looking at the pic, which could have some distortion, I am thinking that a slightly lower gorge and wider lapels would make it look better. As it is, it visually accentuates the difference between the top and the mid section, also, the chest pocket looks to be out in left field all by itself.
     


  4. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    I had a jacket looking pristine at this stage, but upon finishing/tightening-up there was rumpling there.
    - M


    Pics . . .

    Earlier
    [​IMG]

    Later
    [​IMG]

    Jefferyd, is this like breaks on trousers? some [oblique] rumpling to be expected to allow for movement?

    - M

    BTW, the rumples have been corrected on pictured jacket without it feeling any more constricted.
     


  5. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Jefferyd, is like breaks on trousers? some [oblique] rumpling to be expected to allow for movement?

    .


    No- a sleeve can be clean and you can move comfortably. If you are obsessed with being able to flap your arms and not have your coat move, the sleeve should be cut for it, but it will be messy in the back. Some people have an unrealistic expectation of what high armholes alone can do.
     


  6. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    No- a sleeve can be clean and you can move comfortably. If you are obsessed with being able to flap your arms and not have your coat move, the sleeve should be cut for it, but it will be messy in the back. Some people have an unrealistic expectation of what high armholes alone can do.

    Thanks.

    So, what happened from the earlier to the later fitting? There was no rumpling in the earlier, and I would have thought that this can be expected at the later [finished] jacket?

    It's like going backwards, or something.

    - M
     


  7. jefferyd

    jefferyd Senior member Dubiously Honored

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    Hard to say from these photos, but it looks like the sleeve was a little too dry so when he inserted the sleeve head there wasn't enough room for it and the sleeve lifted. Unless he took the sleeve out and repitched it and goofed.
     


  8. mafoofan

    mafoofan THE FOO Dubiously Honored

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    Here's what's wrong with the Corvato suit, in my opinion. I understand the wearer is not a small-framed fellow, but I think certain stylistic choices did him no favors. I lowered the button stance and lapel roll, opened the quarters, and widened the shoulders--that's it. I think the improvement is vast. [​IMG]
     


  9. mmkn

    mmkn Senior member

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    Unless he took the sleeve out and repitched it and goofed.

    Probably this, because everytime it's fitted a mark on the body where my forearm rested is made. Either way, the excess fabric and has been corrected. I write this as the topsleeve and pitch seemed fine. It's tucking the undersleeve into the armhole that seems to be the art.

    - M
     


  10. mccvi

    mccvi Senior member

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    While the star counsel is present, I would love to ask some advice. I live in NYC and am looking to commission a sport coat and need help in finding direction as regards from which tailor / house to choose (I'm moving with family to Montreal in a year and want to take advantage of being in Manhattan while I can). I make no pretenses, I am a relative novice and need some assistance.

    My wish is a spring/winter weight single breasted soft three roll two with natural shoulders (and possibly a spalla camicia), medium gorge to lower, slightly open quarters, slightly higher arm holes, a little room in the chest without a vast degree of swelling, and, overall a solid attention to detail (dimpling around sleeve head drives me a bit mad).

    Rubinacci has seemed appealing, but I really don't know enough to judge. I have admired the fit of Trini's jackets, for some time if that helps. I like Vox's MBT more, for me, than the Steed (as nice as they are), though I am unable to articulate why. If any kinds souls would indulge, I would be most appreciative.

    (and if it helps, I'm 6'4", solid - not fat, nor lanky, but also not athletic in build... yet).
     


  11. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    While the star counsel is present, I would love to ask some advice.
    Remember without drape, even a bad A&S suit, many of the counsel wouldnt look so good. [​IMG]
     


  12. tailorgod

    tailorgod Senior member

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    I knew it!

    B stands for Bruce!

    [​IMG]

    BtW, this is a disproportionate figure!
     


  13. ZON_JR

    ZON_JR Senior member

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    I had not noticed this thread before and it is now way too long to read. Can anyone pls summarize the drama in a few bullets and let me know on which side of the debate I am? TIA

    I've been planning a more precise and detailed analysis for the official introduction of the Voxometer (patent pending), but basically he tried a few times to turn the thread to him and failed, tried again later and FNB responded which got him officially in the game, and then he took it over for a while with pics of all of his suits. He then seems to have suffered from post-coital tristesse and disappeared. He might have posted some cheesecake from his meagre Mike Francesca-ish stash of soft porn, but I might be thinking of another post--some newsreader. Then nothing happened but I see now there are another few thousand posts to read.
     


  14. Sterling Gillette

    Sterling Gillette Senior member

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    I call it as I see it. It's not my fault when you guys can't handle the truth.

    You guys should read this thread.
    http://forums.filmnoirbuff.com/viewtopic.php?id=778

    The Duke of Windsor probably had Scholte invent this silhouette to be unique, very much the way the English like to have a shirt pattern no one else has. The English thought it was a quirky, vulgar style.

    Because the Americans liked his (Edward VIII's) style it became popular enough to open Anderson and Sheppard. It never caught on in the UK because the English cannot stand the sloppiness of the style. It never caught on for most Americans for the same reasons.

    The Americans who kept it going were the sort of Americans who thought royalty was the ultimate in social climbing and wanted to fantasize that they'd been crowned. That type of crowd is easy to dupe which allowed A&S to become increasingly cynical about its attention to detail an construction. The only places that seem to have copied this look are FLusser and Rubinacci, both of whom also seem to be set up for the tourist trade.

    I sympathize with American customers who simply hear through the grapevine that A&S is the place to go but there is less excuse for self styled experts who research and analysis skills are so poor that they can't catch the true reasons for A&S's limited success.


    Um?


    Class in taste doesn't have a lot to do with money or where you were born but you would need to be on your prescription to process that.

    So this must be coming from a working class hero with no money and a huge inferiority complex.
     


  15. Film Noir Buff

    Film Noir Buff Senior member

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    So this must be coming from a working class hero with no money and a huge inferiority complex.
    That description seems to fit Rain Man to a tee. Thanks for that [​IMG].
     


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