• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • We would like to welcome House of Huntington as an official Affiliate Vendor. Shop past season Drake's, Nigel Cabourn, Private White V.C. and other menswear luxury brands at exceptional prices below retail. Please visit the Houise of Huntington thread and welcome them to the forum.

  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Sartorial mythbusting

binge

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2008
Messages
5,102
Reaction score
155
Originally Posted by George
Also, have you ever tried to scratch with a CD player?

That's what everyone is doing nowadays. That and Final Scratch.
 

George

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 23, 2008
Messages
2,832
Reaction score
17
Originally Posted by binge
That's what everyone is doing nowadays. That and Final Scratch.
Bloody technology eh...!!!
rolleyes.gif
Is nothing sacred...
 

tailorgod

Senior Member
Joined
Dec 7, 2008
Messages
127
Reaction score
6
Early comparison of Roman (structured) and Neapolitan (soft, drapey) tailoring (in English):

IMPORTANT NOTICE: No media files are hosted on these forums. By clicking the link below you agree to view content from an external website. We can not be held responsible for the suitability or legality of this material. If the video does not play, wait a minute or try again later. I AGREE

TIP: to embed Youtube clips, put only the encoded part of the Youtube URL, e.g. eBGIQ7ZuuiU between the tags.

Same thing in German (better version):

IMPORTANT NOTICE: No media files are hosted on these forums. By clicking the link below you agree to view content from an external website. We can not be held responsible for the suitability or legality of this material. If the video does not play, wait a minute or try again later. I AGREE

TIP: to embed Youtube clips, put only the encoded part of the Youtube URL, e.g. eBGIQ7ZuuiU between the tags.
 

Martin Stall

Senior Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2010
Messages
227
Reaction score
2
Originally Posted by jefferyd

I do agree that it seems way fast. However, it is a drape coat which is inherently much easier- it is easier to fit a mitten than a glove.


laugh.gif
laugh.gif
laugh.gif
laugh.gif
laugh.gif


That is too excellent, I'm going to remember that one:

"Wonderful sir, your coat fits like a mitten"
 

A Y

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
6,081
Reaction score
1,037
Originally Posted by jefferyd
This coat dates to 1987 and has a sidebody, but the front dart stops at the pocket. It's just a little one.
BTW, are we still trying to figure out if Colin Harvey cut this coat? During my semiannual fitting with Tom Mahon today, sidebodies came up, and he said that Harvey liked to cut with sidebodies because he could get a very shaped coat with a narrow waist and flared skirt --- he apparently liked a more dramatic (flamboyant was the implication) shape than Hallbery, who did not like sidebodies. The traditional A&S cut doesn't have sidebodies, and the skirt goes straight down. If you have a curvy figure (like when they make for women), then they use sidebodies, otherwise not. FWIW. --Andre edit: Vox will be glad to know, too, that we discussed kimchee as well as sidebodies. Apparently Tom's young apprentice (he looks like a kid!) had his first taste of Korean food on this trip, his first to America.
 

voxsartoria

Goon member
Timed Out
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
25,700
Reaction score
180
Originally Posted by A Y
edit: Vox will be glad to know, too, that we discussed kimchee as well as sidebodies. Apparently Tom's young apprentice (he looks like a kid!) had his first taste of Korean food on this trip, his first to America.

Tell Tom to keep Ethan away from Despos. Even the faintest hint of garlic and chilies will cause Chris to abduct him.

BTW, Paul is my new tailor
devil.gif
.


- B
 

A Y

Distinguished Member
Joined
Mar 12, 2006
Messages
6,081
Reaction score
1,037
Originally Posted by voxsartoria
BTW, Paul is my new tailor
devil.gif
.


Hopefully
devil.gif
doesn't mean Paul only sews for Edwin now. I would be
ffffuuuu.gif
.

--Andre
 

voxsartoria

Goon member
Timed Out
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
Messages
25,700
Reaction score
180
Originally Posted by S. Able
interesting....I am more than a little surprised about the lapels.

http://tuttofattoamano.blogspot.com/


Click the photograph below of the machine-padded lapel of a 1998 Caraceni from jefferyd's early version article on dismembering a jacket from the iconic maker:



I'll include a link to the truth's Kiton Kut-up thread as well for those who like to compare.

Enjoy.


- B
 

emptym

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
9,654
Reaction score
7,351
musicboohoo[1].gif
Originally Posted by Despos
I would like to contribute to this thread.

IMPORTANT NOTICE: No media files are hosted on these forums. By clicking the link below you agree to view content from an external website. We can not be held responsible for the suitability or legality of this material. If the video does not play, wait a minute or try again later. I AGREE

TIP: to embed Youtube clips, put only the encoded part of the Youtube URL, e.g. eBGIQ7ZuuiU between the tags.


I had never even heard of these people. Thank you.
 

emptym

Moderator
Moderator
Joined
Sep 22, 2007
Messages
9,654
Reaction score
7,351
^If you did, I didn't get it. But don't worry about it. Sometimes I respond to emails or phone calls in my head and forget to in real life.
 

greger

Distinguished Member
Joined
Jan 24, 2009
Messages
1,470
Reaction score
193
There is no doubt that if this coat had proper drape in it it would look better.
So, only thin people can wear drape. Another myth busted.

img0017mn2xl5.jpg


I was told, about 50 years ago, better drape isn't right next to the scye.
When drape was popular there were tailors in nearly every town, not to mention the big cities. They each had their own opinions about drape. Today we only hear or read about .0000001% about what drape is. I'd like to hear the other opinions, but I can't raise people from the dead to learn more.
Country tailors were know for making loose coats for outdoor work. The Swedes were know for making another type of loose coat. Neither of these two were know as or considered as drape. What other kinds of loose coats are there? From my memories of years gone by what some are calling drape is hardly drape at all. What I saw as a boy is basically the end of the many varitations of drape. The few today is rather simply and not much to look at. Some that was in the past was rather zaney.
There were standards for clothes, which is like rtw, everybody looks the same wearing it. Who wants to be a robot? In the old days some customers competed wtih other customers bringing their ideas to the tailors. Customer and tailor work out the details and then the customer goes and show his friends, each trying to out do the others. Even manufactures were hard at work with new ideas. Todays world where people in their 20s to 30s are discovering tailoring and know nothing of its past seem so timid about stepping away from the herd, it is like looking at stale bread- not very tasty. Strangely, so many "tailoring houses" today are like manufactures with their "house style"- are they really tailors or just better manufactures? House styles are fine, but if they can't depart it how can they be real tailors. Even cheap manufactureing companies change "house Style" every so many months. How is it that those who are supposed to be best don't know how to do something different? Or, refuse? Perhaps another myth is that some of these manufactures are tailors.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 55 35.5%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 60 38.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 17 11.0%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 27 17.4%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 28 18.1%

Forum statistics

Threads
505,160
Messages
10,578,964
Members
223,882
Latest member
anykadaimeni
Top