roped shoulders and more shoulders ?

[Sartorian]

So I've gone and flipped through 'Dressing the Man', searched and read some of the threads, but I really can't figure out exactly what roping is and what it looks like. I understand it relates to Saville Row cuts of jackets, but can someone

(a) post some comparison pics;
(b) explain what it is, and what differentiates it from other shoulder structure;
(c) explain what kind of body it might look best on (or if not, what visual effect it has);
(d) point me to the thread that might answer this if it's already been illustrated/discussed.

I'm contemplating my next MTM suit, and I'd like to figure out more precisely what kind of shoulder structure I might prefer, and would also just like to know my options.

Thanks.

 

[texas_jack]

It looks like zegna.

 

[DocHolliday]

Roping looks like there's a piece of rope under the top of the sleevehead. Essentially, the sleeve bumps up higher than the top of the shoulder.

This coat I'm selling has roping:

This coat does not:

 

[edmorel]

Originally Posted by texas_jack

It looks like zegna.

and smells like teen spirit.

 

[shoreman1782]

Question--on RTW stuff, I associate roped shoulders more with structured suits, double vents, brioni; and soft/natural shoulders more with trad, sack, single vent, J Press (but also with some Italian suits). Is that more or less accurate?

 

[Sartorian]

Originally Posted by shoreman1782

Question--on RTW stuff, I associate roped shoulders more with structured suits, double vents, brioni; and soft/natural shoulders more with trad, sack, single vent, J Press (but also with some Italian suits). Is that more or less accurate?

To add to that, are soft/natural shoulders considered more casual or more appropriate for some body types?

What is the point of roped shoulders?

 

[gdl203]

Originally Posted by Sartorian

To add to that, are soft/natural shoulders considered more casual or more appropriate for some body types?

What is the point of roped shoulders?

Some here consider that people with square/built shoulders should go with a softer shoulder jacket, while those with sloped shoulders should compensate with a less natural shoulder jacket. I personally don't agree with that as I think everyone looks better with natural/sloped shoulder coats.

The point of roped shoulders is purely aesthetic. There is no functional benefit that I'm aware of

 

[alebrady]

i agree it is an aesthetic choice, like ticket pockets, peak lapels, etc.

personally, i have come to appreciate roping more than i had historically

 

[teddieriley]

Yup. I just visited Chan today to discuss a suit jacket I received with roping. It was a little more than I liked, so I asked him to reduce it. He then pinned my left shoulder to show how it would look with a soft, natural shoulder, as I don't have much padding in the shoulder in the first place. I opted for some roping.

My point? Pure aesthetic. With MTM, it's great that you can determine how much of it to have to get the look you want. I think the roping gives me a better structure to my otherwise sloping shoulders.

However, I did notice that with roping, it will likely cause a ridging effect (i.e. fold) right under the rope if your arm isn't perfectly straight. So if you have a slimmer cut suit, the roping may make the upper arm not as "clean," if I'm making any sense. When Chan pinned the soft shoulder, the ridging effect was gone. Even on his suit with the roping, it had a similar effect, so I know it wasn't the tailoring. Maybe someone can comment more on this. I might be way off.

 

[penguin vic]

Originally Posted by Sartorian

(c) explain what kind of body it might look best on (or if not, what visual effect it has)

I have fairly square shoulders. Both roped and soft shoulders work for me. I think roped can portray a slightly 'stronger' or more dramatic visual effect while softer shoulders look super clean. Both can look classy.

 

[itsstillmatt]

Originally Posted by gdl203

Some here consider that people with square/built shoulders should go with a softer shoulder jacket, while those with sloped shoulders should compensate with a less natural shoulder jacket. I personally don't agree with that as I think everyone looks better with natural/sloped shoulder coats.

The point of roped shoulders is purely aesthetic. There is no functional benefit that I'm aware of
+1. You are better off playing the hand you've got than trying to be something else.

 

[LabelKing]

The whoopee posted some suits with highly roped shoulders.

 

[calvinloke]

would this be a roped shoulder?

 

[Areth]

I really emphatically hate roped shoulders. I used to assume it was just a sign of defective tailoring - who wants their sleeve sloppily puffing up above the shoulder line at the seam? I understand some are partial to the aesthetic, but it also definitely seems to be a hallmark of cheap suits. I stopped using a lowish-end HK guy (Andy Wong, about $1k USD a suit) because his jackets came back with heavily roped shoulders. It never crossed my mind at the time that someone might actually want such a thing...

Padding is another matter entirely and I do think it has a place in moderation, though I tend to be personally partial to a more natural shoulder.

 

[apropos]