• Hi, I am the owner and main administrator of Styleforum. If you find the forum useful and fun, please help support it by buying through the posted links on the forum. Our main, very popular sales thread, where the latest and best sales are listed, are posted HERE

    Purchases made through some of our links earns a commission for the forum and allows us to do the work of maintaining and improving it. Finally, thanks for being a part of this community. We realize that there are many choices today on the internet, and we have all of you to thank for making Styleforum the foremost destination for discussions of menswear.
  • This site contains affiliate links for which Styleforum may be compensated.
  • STYLE. COMMUNITY. GREAT CLOTHING.

    Bored of counting likes on social networks? At Styleforum, you’ll find rousing discussions that go beyond strings of emojis.

    Click Here to join Styleforum's thousands of style enthusiasts today!

    Styleforum is supported in part by commission earning affiliate links sitewide. Please support us by using them. You may learn more here.

Requiring assistance for find morning coat and pants fabric (traditional)

Spurious

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2010
Messages
604
Reaction score
137
Hi everyone,

I am looking for guidance on the fabrics for a morning coat and matching pants to be worn at weddings.

My research so far has lead me to more or less confirm what Wikipedia says:
"The modern morning coat is single-breasted and usually has peaked lapels.[10] It is usually closed with a single button[10] but may have a link-front closure instead.[11][12] It is traditionally in either black or Oxford grey[13][14] herringbone wool,[1] which should not be too heavy a weight,[14] with curved front edges sloping back into tails[1][12] of knee length.[15]"
"The formal ('spongebag') trousers worn with it are either 'cashmere' striped, or black and white checked.[1] Formal trousers should not have turn-ups (cuffs in American English),[32] and have either flat-fronts or one to two forward pleats to each leg."

I'm going to order at Kent Wang and they've provided me with links to Huddersfield:

Collection: http://www.huddersfieldcloth.com/Products/Formal_Occasions/1

Most likely the safest option and most traditional would be the following fabric: http://www.huddersfieldcloth.com/Product/H8703
I am more a fan of grey and read that Oxford grey would work as well, but the only fabric they have is the following: http://www.huddersfieldcloth.com/Product/H1700
Two things that come to mind here:
  • The grey seems to be very light, as far as I've read, the Oxford grey should rather be a charcoal like dark grey
  • It's not the traditional pattern (worsted herringbone)

With regards to the pants, presumably all of the following fabrics are a go, right? Cashmere-striped is unfortunately not something I could figure out through googling (probably my inability to use Google):


Would someone be able to provide me with a potential source of a worsted herringbone cloth in dark Oxford grey?

Any help is appreciated.
 
Last edited:

Spurious

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2010
Messages
604
Reaction score
137
Received another two suggestions, presumably those would work as well, right? The grey one might not fit the bill exactly, charcoal should though:
 

ZRH1

Senior Member
Joined
Oct 14, 2017
Messages
343
Reaction score
163
I have one made by A. Caraceni, albeit with vintage cloth, so no reference. Colorwise the coat is nearly black without any pattern and the pants are striped in a mid to dark grey. Light grey coats are for the father of the bride. The latter is based on my observations and not on a strict rule.
 

Spurious

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2010
Messages
604
Reaction score
137
I was going to go with a dark grey as well - the charcoal one in my reply is the current favorite.
Pants I was going to go with the mid grey ones with grey & charcoal stripes or the light grey ones.

Looking at pictures on Google, this seems to be an acceptable solution. The herringbone pattern for the coat is based on the Wikipedia article.
 

Nobilis Animus

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2017
Messages
2,660
Reaction score
2,384
Consider also some of the other options for morning trousers, if you're not dead-set on Oxford grey: shepherd`s check, houndstooth, and other checks such as Prince of Wales, etc.

As far as that article - black herringbone works well for something much more formal, but not for weddings.
 

Spurious

Senior Member
Joined
Aug 26, 2010
Messages
604
Reaction score
137
Would you say the same thing about dark grey herringbone?
 

Nobilis Animus

Distinguished Member
Joined
Nov 25, 2017
Messages
2,660
Reaction score
2,384
Would you say the same thing about dark grey herringbone?

Not necessarily, as the black of the morning coat should contrast enough with it, but I've seen and owned some charcoals that may as well have been black too.

Especially for a wedding, I'd lean a little more towards a lighter shade for the trousers. Of course, that's entirely up to you, and the herringbone fabrics you selected should do quite well.
 

Featured Sponsor

How important is full vs half canvas to you for heavier sport jackets?

  • Definitely full canvas only

    Votes: 92 37.6%
  • Half canvas is fine

    Votes: 90 36.7%
  • Really don't care

    Votes: 26 10.6%
  • Depends on fabric

    Votes: 41 16.7%
  • Depends on price

    Votes: 38 15.5%

Forum statistics

Threads
506,947
Messages
10,593,082
Members
224,354
Latest member
jamesirichard90
Top