Really who is Robert Talbott?

[AJL]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

This is the reason why I read teh StyleForvm threads with hawklike focus, because someone in here is both another robot and another governor. I am sure of it.


- B

Mafoo?

 

[cold war painter]

As it's improper, but done deliberately to avoid awkward situations - it seems a little odd that they're labelled with the regimental names as I would've thought the idea was to sever the link between the colours and the military history.



(*I've never served personally but I can imagine roughly what my grandfather might say about someone wearing his regimental tie who wasn't connected with the regiment. There was a thread about this sort of thing recently IIRC.)

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by Manton

Any Englishman who cares about Yanks improperly wearing his regimental colors is going to be pissed off whether your stripes go the right way or the wrong way.

And the right way looks better.

I solve this problem by not wearing striped ties in the UK. Over here, no one notices and no one cares.

Also, some regimentals -- like the Brigade of Guards tie -- are so much a part of the dressing lexicon that they have transcended the original link. Saying that only a Guardsman could wear it would be like insisting that only a polo player can wear a polo coat.

However, unusual and rare designs like the Royal Artillery really should be worn only by those who have "earned" it. I used to have one of those, but I felt guilty about it so I gave it away.

Are you saying that you wouldn't take offense if I wore this club tie?

- B

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by alliswell

Your plan to pass for a twelve-year old proceeds apace.

I am glad that you are keeping track. Let me know if you see me going off course.

Originally Posted by alliswell

Think Bladerunner, Dekker. He's closer than you think.

Originally Posted by AJL

Mafoo?

I could easily see him as a governor.


- B

 

[Mild Mannered]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Who is Robert Talbott? He is simply...

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- B

VOX, your hot-linking never shows on many of our screens.
Better to give the actual link. I think we can manage an extra click.
Thanks.

 

[Mild Mannered]

Originally Posted by Manton

In the old days, Talbott made very tradly stuff. He used to stock nearly the entire catalogue of English regimental stripes (all cut in the wrong direction). Now Ben Silver does that, but cuts them in the right direction. I still have many Talbott ties from the '60s and '70s (and possibly earlier) from my father and grandfather.

The son (same name) took over in the '80s and really updated the brand. He is repsonsible for the more fashiony, less tradly, look that the company has today. Then he got bored with clothes and started making pinot and chard in Carmel Valley. His mother ran the company a long time until she died five years ago. Bob, Jr. then took over again.

I always learn something useful from you Manton. Consistent excellence.
You should have your own website. You are a master.

 

[a tailor]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

Yes, I get a Despos Discount. I have not used it yet, because he is always one city ahead, like The Fugitive.

And I am surprised that you still get stuff made. I always assumed you were in pajamas and Sulka dressing gown all day, like Hefner.


- B

i will let you in on a secrete its polyester pajamas. but please dont tell anyone.
the shmulka dressing gown is bespoke, made in fiji.
had an awful time getting the coconut fiber out of the pockets.

 

[voxsartoria]

Originally Posted by a tailor

i will let you in on a secrete its polyester pajamas. but please dont tell anyone.

Your secret is safe with me.

Originally Posted by a tailor

had an awful time getting the coconut fiber out of the pockets.

I've been there, my friend.


- b

 

[Lagavulin16]

I am surprised that there is no mention of the Talbott winery? It is my understanding that the son started a winery of produced a Chardonnay, know as the T Estate and rivaled Kistler. The Diamond T has been our Chard go to for years. Excellent, even more so than the ties and shirts.

 

[JLibourel]

Originally Posted by calisanfran

Way too many Robert Talbott and IKE Behar shirts in Saks outlet. Never owned an RT shirt. What's their quality like?

Bought a Talbott shirt at the Off-5th recently. They really have rather few Talbotts compared to the ubiquitous Ike Behars. The Talbott shirt is the best dress shirt I own, definitely better than the one Ike Behar my wife bought me some years back. However, it should be remember that when I proclaim a shirt "the best dress shirt I own," that's not saying a lot. I am a horrible cheapskate when it comes to buying shirts.

I've owned Talbott ties for many years with considerable satisfaction. Just bought another one recently.

 

[Steven Aver]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

He has a son: Chino Lino.


- B

And an Uncle named Ralphie

 

[Roikins]

Their higher end shirts, I think they classify them as "Estate custom," are made in Carmel, while I think the regular shirts are made in Poland.

 

[rnoldh]

To Manton,

You seem to know a lot about RT and their history. I've got a vintage RT 7 Fold thin tie ( about 3 & 1/4" wide with Paisley design ). What makes it interesting is that it does not say " 1 of 40" or some # of 40. It's my understanding that the RT 7 Folds of today are all made in limited editions of 40. I believe the one I have was made prior to that and may be a prototype of RT's 7 Folds. Do you know anything of their history and if the 7 Fold I have is a rarity?

I once asked Mack211 about this and he forwarded the following information taken from a Cigar Aficionado article.

"Fold two and a half yards of fine silk in on itself seven times until you have a tie that needs no lining and practically knots itself. Ironically, it was almost lost to us. An affluent affectation first known to the robber barons of the early twentieth century, the seven-fold disappeared in the 1930s, a casualty of the Great Depression and silk shortages caused by unrest in China. When prosperity returned, the voluminous tie demurred. It wasn't until the 1980s that luxury neckwear maker Robert Talbott, prompted by a retired Yugoslavian artisan, Lydia Grayson, rediscovered the seven-fold. Even then it took four years of experimentation and training until the company could introduce its own seven-fold in 1985."

Do you know anything of this designer, Lydia Grayson, and if my tie would possibly be one of the early RT 7 Folds designed by her and before they were using the 1 of 40 limited edition format?

PS: I'll take some pictures when I find the tie.

Thanks

 

[Mild Mannered]

Originally Posted by a tailor

i will let you in on a secrete its polyester pajamas. but please dont tell anyone.
the shmulka dressing gown is bespoke, made in fiji.
had an awful time getting the coconut fiber out of the pockets.

We promise not to tell a soul, but you have already told the world.

 

[Sam Hober]

Rnoldh, I also have an early (perhaps from the first year) Robert Talbott 7-fold and it does not have a number like they currently do. I am not sure how rare they are as from time to time they will turn up on EBay. Articles such as the one from Cigar Aficionado should be taken with a grain of salt. As an example 7-folds did not die out in the 1930s. "Ironically, it was almost lost to us. An affluent affectation first known to the robber barons of the early twentieth century, the seven-fold disappeared in the 1930s, a casualty of the Great Depression and silk shortages caused by unrest in China. " The following is from another article that I wrote recently on www.serendipitygazette.com

"I've seen ad's from early 1930's magazine's showing the Seven-Fold ties. One such shop which also sold dress shirts and other haberdashery was "Wilson Brothers Haberdashery" from Chicago, Illinois" Necktie aficionado "Decline and Fall" found fascinating advertisements from 1935 to 1938 in the New York Times from Bloomingdales, Saks Fifth Avenue, Weber and Heilbroner, Rogers Peet, John Wanamaker, Stein Bloch & Macys. The prices ranged from $.85 at Wanamakers to $4.94 at Macys. In December of 2006 Mariano Rubinacci was asked by Matt S. about unlined seven-folds and he said that he remembered selling the 7-folds like Talbott makes in the 50s as a kid, but thinks that they changed sometime in the 60s. ​

"Fold two and a half yards of fine silk in on itself seven times until you have a tie that needs no lining and practically knots itself." Another example of writers writing about a subject based on Public Relations information. An unlined 7-fold will typically take just over a yard of silk, not two and a half yards. Sadly lots of afshion writers simply repeat what they have read without spending time actually making anything or at least watching at length how clothes are made. One might think that a 57 inch tie will need a lot more than a yard of (36 inch) silk but it does not as the tie is cut on the bias on an angle. "...Even then it took four years of experimentation and training until the company could introduce its own seven-fold in 1985." I can only smile when I read this type of statement. Lets say someone was making ties and retired. Then they started to make ties again. It should not take more than around an hour to make a new 7-fold pattern. Perhaps a few days at most to retrain in making beautiful ties. For the record Robert Talbott has one of the best 7-fold constructions available in a department store anywhere. Or at least they used to, I have not looked at one in a number of years. No comment on their current designs - but I loved their old classics.