Question(s) about Isaia

[pkiula]

OK. I finally gave in and bought an Isaia suit online. I'm amazed at how close a fit it is to perfection. If I weren't a stickler for fitted suits, this would be it. (A bit like Zegna's Milano, on me.)

Anyway questions for those who have owned Isaia suits.

(1) This is the first time I have seen a suit with no buttons on the sleeve. Nothing. Am I missing something -- are these to be found separately somehow and tailored? I don't even see button holes. Is this an Isaia thing? Hope so.

(2) The shoulder padding is discerningly light. While this feels comfortable, it also leaves a crease on my shoulders. I have perhaps a slightly stronger-than-usual shoulder. Some cheap suits in the past have done this, formed an arching crease on the shoulders. But my Zegna, Corneliani, Canali, and some tailored suits dont do this. Any ideas?

(3) How can I find out which line of Isaia it is? From the threads here, it seems there are different lines. This is an "S" fit.

Thanks!

 

[Nicola]

Check the pockets. Normally buttons are in the pocket of jackets. It makes it easier to fix the sleeve length.

OTOH If you bought it online it may be the buttons were lost. Part of the reason it was cheaper then walking into an Isaia shop and paying full MSRP. If you don't find the buttons go to a fabric shop and buy buttons you like. Have them put on when the sleeve length is done.

 

[Sanguis Mortuum]

Originally Posted by Nicola

If you don't find the buttons go to a fabric shop and buy buttons you like. Have them put on when the sleeve length is done.

+1

If doing this you should probably change the buttons on the fronts of the coat as well, just so they match, though come to think of it you could have some sprezz-like fun with non-matching buttons...

 

[literasyme]

Originally Posted by pkiula

(2) The shoulder padding is discerningly light. While this feels comfortable, it also leaves a crease on my shoulders. I have perhaps a slightly stronger-than-usual shoulder. Some cheap suits in the past have done this, formed an arching crease on the shoulders. But my Zegna, Corneliani, Canali, and some tailored suits dont do this. Any ideas?

(3) How can I find out which line of Isaia it is? From the threads here, it seems there are different lines. This is an "S" fit.

(2): Photos would help. What kind of crease are you talking about? A divot perpendicular to your collarbone? Or a crease running along your shoulder line? Or do you mean the sleevehead is creased where it falls over your shoulder? That would be normal for many Neapolitan makers.

(3) Check the label in the inside pocket. Then do a search for the model type listed there.

 

[Artking3]

Originally Posted by pkiula

(3) How can I find out which line of Isaia it is? From the threads here, it seems there are different lines. This is an "S" fit.

Thanks!

Isaia is my suit of choice. It fits me almost perfectly OTR. If you like your Isaia a little more fitted, look for the Model Gregory or T, which are more fitted than the Model S. I usually have my Model S suits taken in a bit in the jacket and trousers.

You look at the label. If it is the current two types of red labels, it is the mainline. That seems to be only one line of Isaia currently in production. If your suit is Model S, which is one of the current production Isaia.

If it is a black, gray, or blue label, it is an older suit, and there are 3 lines of Isaia at the time: Enrico Isaia (highest line), Isaia Napoli (main), and Gianluca Napoli (lowest).

 

[Artking3]

Originally Posted by pkiula

(2) The shoulder padding is discerningly light. While this feels comfortable, it also leaves a crease on my shoulders. I have perhaps a slightly stronger-than-usual shoulder. Some cheap suits in the past have done this, formed an arching crease on the shoulders. But my Zegna, Corneliani, Canali, and some tailored suits dont do this. Any ideas?
Thanks!

I also have a slight crease because of my strong shoulders. It took me a while, but now I just ignore it. I don't think there is anything to be done, because of the extremly light padding. All the other suits you mentioned have more built up shoulders so they avoid this problem.

 

[pkiula]

Wow, thanks for the info here.

It's a red label "Isaia Napoli" with a "Base S - 2094PN" written on the in-pocket label. Hopefully this is the mainline of today?

Buttons are in the pocket. My bad. I've always bought the other couture lines from their respective stores, so never come across this

Shoulder creasing, it runs like an arc at the back of my neck, like fabric trying to bunch up. Googling turned up this, which is fairly accurate! http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=18256 -- sadly this seems to be caused by a mismatch in the jacket's cut and my shoulders, but I suppose my other known-brand suits have heavier padding as artking3 suggested so it's masked..

After reading all the odes to Isaia around here I'm at least now sure that it's not all it's made out to be ("a totally different cut"...sorry, it's kinda hard to be totally different in the suit world, seriously how many different possibilities are there for one physique?) but one thing I'll say about Isaia -- it feels supple!

 

[Redwoood]

Post a picture.
Talking about this issue without one would be pure speculation.
Having said that, you probably have square shoulders and the suit does not, purely speculatively speaking.

 

[pkiula]

Thanks. Yes, will take a picture at some point and share here. Would appreciate your thoughts.

 

[Artking3]

Originally Posted by pkiula

Wow, thanks for the info here.

It's a red label "Isaia Napoli" with a "Base S - 2094PN" written on the in-pocket label. Hopefully this is the mainline of today?

Buttons are in the pocket. My bad. I've always bought the other couture lines from their respective stores, so never come across this

Shoulder creasing, it runs like an arc at the back of my neck, like fabric trying to bunch up. Googling turned up this, which is fairly accurate! http://www.styleforum.net/showthread.php?t=18256 -- sadly this seems to be caused by a mismatch in the jacket's cut and my shoulders, but I suppose my other known-brand suits have heavier padding as artking3 suggested so it's masked..

After reading all the odes to Isaia around here I'm at least now sure that it's not all it's made out to be ("a totally different cut"...sorry, it's kinda hard to be totally different in the suit world, seriously how many different possibilities are there for one physique?) but one thing I'll say about Isaia -- it feels supple!

It sounds like your suit is the current mainline Isaia.

As for the neck bunching up, that is a small problem any decent tailor can fix. I had that problem on some of my suits, which my tailor fixed.