Question regarding no-break pant length . . .

[TimothyF]

@Despos I'm curious whether you, as an esteemed bespoke maker, would normally make pants with crotch gussets or not. (I recall handling some old Savile Row pairs with a small diamond gusset to avoid that "cross" seam at the bottom)

For a couple of years I have been slowly converting all of my trousers to gusseted. Since I do everything myself, and I own no sewing machine, the work is very slow! But let me tell you this experience gains me the utmost respect for the complexity of the human (lower) anatomy, and how hard it must be for tailors to hit that goldilocks of comfort and "looking good". Comfort standing is easy, but all-round comfort sitting (for me) is nigh impossible with any RTW pairs I've ever had. At least through trial and error I can asymptotically approach that goldilock zone, but it sure can get frustrating much of the time!

 

[Despos]

@Despos I'm curious whether you, as an esteemed bespoke maker, would normally make pants with crotch gussets or not. (I recall handling some old Savile Row pairs with a small diamond gusset to avoid that "cross" seam at the bottom)

For a couple of years I have been slowly converting all of my trousers to gusseted. Since I do everything myself, and I own no sewing machine, the work is very slow! But let me tell you this experience gains me the utmost respect for the complexity of the human (lower) anatomy, and how hard it must be for tailors to hit that goldilocks of comfort and "looking good". Comfort standing is easy, but all-round comfort sitting (for me) is nigh impossible with any RTW pairs I've ever had. At least through trial and error I can asymptotically approach that goldilock zone, but it sure can get frustrating much of the time!

Are you adding a piece of cloth at the crotch to let it out and make it bigger? Is that what a gusset is and what it does?

 

[TimothyF]

Are you adding a piece of cloth at the crotch to let it out and make it bigger? Is that what a gusset is and what it does?

Yes in essence. I usually get extra fabric from the bottom (extra inseam material), or something close.

However depending on the size of the gusset I find I may need to take in the front “join point”, else there’s too much material flapping about, creating a camel toe effect. Sorry for the crude terms as I don’t know much tailoring jargon!

 

[Despos]

i get why you refer to this as a gusset, tailoring jargon is calling this a crotch piece.
Don‘t cut trousers with a crotch piece. Just make the pattern to the size needed for the size of the client. Would only add a crotch piece when altering or adjusting and there isn’t enough outlet.
The thing about pattern making is they rarely if ever teach or talk about angles. This is especially true about drafting trouser patterns. Bodies are round and have curves and shapes but patterns are straight lines on a flat surface. The magic happens in the angles of the lines. Something you can learn but hard to teach. That‘s the advantage of working directly, face to face with the maker. Maker can learn the shape of the client visually. Two clients can have the same measurements but have completely different shapes. Measurements don’t convey this info.
Knowing the shape and not just the measure allows you to conform the size to the shape. Sounds weird but it’s logical and common sense to making cloathes.

 

[Sirguywhosmiles]

Heel height, thickness of the sole and then style of shoe have an equal effect on trouser length. Circumference of the hem is the other variable. 7.5' opening will be a different length than a 8" or 9" circumference. If you want the trouser length to work with 3 different shoe styles; one will be just right and the other 2 will break a bit more or a bit less.
Decision is; which shoe do you want the length to be just right and which shoes will look better with a small break.
Assuming you don't want them to be short

This is right; no break is the best look ( at least for short guys like OP and myself), minimal break is 2nd best and high water pants are the worst.

Get the trousers hemmed to no break on your lowest shoe.