Question on Overcoat Style (Back)

[Eustace Tilley]

Looking to get an overcoat rolling for next winter. Wondering which of the two back designs people favor? I'm leaning towards the second.

Thanks - ET

I:

II:

 

[cptjeff]

The box pleat in back does help add movement. I have an old military coat built like that. It also allows for a fairly dramatic shape without restricting the wearer.

 

[GBear]

Ignoring the pleat, I chose the second.

 

[Douglas]

I am not a fan of the pleat. It looks bulky and sloppy to me.

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Thanks guys - keep in mind the guy in the second pic is flaring his lats a bit, thereby opening the pleats more than normal.

 

[jerrybrowne]

Choice #1. Looks much cleaner. I have choice #2 in a Camel Polo coat. Wish I hadn't done it.

 

[GBear]

Wait, you are only referring to the belt style, not any other styling of the coat, correct?

 

[voxsartoria]

..

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by voxsartoria

What material?

I prefer gathered backs, but they really look best in soft coatings.


- B

Harrisons 83936 - a dark camel colored cloth - mix of 85% wool and 15% camelhair.

The very last pic in the overcoating collection: http://www.harrisonsofedinburgh.com/...ions.html?cs=h

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by GBear

Wait, you are only referring to the belt style, not any other styling of the coat, correct?

Sorry, I wasn't clear - I meant the entire back style (pleats and all)

 

[GBear]

Originally Posted by Eustace Tilley

Sorry, I wasn't clear - I meant the entire back style (pleats and all)

I'd like to change my vote to the first option, in that case. In the previous title, you mentioned back belt style or something of the like so I naturally assumed you were referring to just the belt. Thanks for the clarification!

 

[gshen]

I like iammatt's coat posted on the LL:

Similar to #1, but not quite!

 

[TheTukker]

I like 'm both ET, but perhaps I a bit better as it seems less casual. Why the belt? To give it a bit more shape, character or something else? Just curious as I am thinking of an overcoat project myself and had not considered a belt (but like it).

 

[csoukoulis]

i say #1

 

[Eustace Tilley]

Originally Posted by Lonneker

I like 'm both ET, but perhaps I a bit better as it seems less casual. Why the belt? To give it a bit more shape, character or something else? Just curious as I am thinking of an overcoat project myself and had not considered a belt (but like it).

The cloth I've chosen, Harrisons 839396, is a particularly soft fabric (its 15% camehair) in a lighter color than most overcoating. While my other coats are in the standard 6x2 DB configuration with a plain back, like vox, I felt a fabric such as the Harrisons would be well-suited for a belted back with pleats.

Matt's fabric in the pic above appears to be similar. I certainly wouldn't get something like this in a standard 22oz. navy wool or even a lighter covert.