Question About Shirt Interlining for Collar and Cuffs

[yiyiinterlining]

hi, there. This is Dean Chee from Nantong Yiyi Interlining Co.,Ltd, which is a professional interlining company.If there is any quesiton ,i can help!

 

[pvrhye]

How did this post bubble back up? The last post was in 2009? Someone get their post deleted or something?

 

[evilbananas]

Question:

Does NOT using interlining add any complexity to the making of the shirt? I ask because I am having a difficult time finding online tailors who will make shirts with no interlining in the collar and cuffs.

 

[cronicmole]

its good 2 see old threads pop up sometimes. Means people are using the search function.

 

[Ataturk]

If you're using traditional methods it's not harder, just different. It's actually probably easier, except for turning the points (look at Mercer's collar points in every picture of their shirts you ever see...). But the online MTM shops probably use various industrial automatons--cad software, collar turner/trimmers, whatever, I don't really know, that may not be easily adapted to it. I bet any of them could do it if they really wanted to, though.

 

[bjornb17]

Originally Posted by cronicmole

its good 2 see old threads pop up sometimes. Means people are using the search function.

Spoken like a person who has more than 90 posts.

 

[phxlawstudent]

Originally Posted by evilbananas

Question:

Does NOT using interlining add any complexity to the making of the shirt? I ask because I am having a difficult time finding online tailors who will make shirts with no interlining in the collar and cuffs.

Do you mean fused interlining or no interlining whatsoever? If the latter, I'm not sure that's possible. If the former, then the interlining must be sewn together. Thus, adding to the labor and complexity involved. Fusing just requires glue and whatever else is needed to ensure a proper set.

 

[evilbananas]

Originally Posted by Ataturk

If you're using traditional methods it's not harder, just different. It's actually probably easier, except for turning the points (look at Mercer's collar points in every picture of their shirts you ever see...). But the online MTM shops probably use various industrial automatons--cad software, collar turner/trimmers, whatever, I don't really know, that may not be easily adapted to it. I bet any of them could do it if they really wanted to, though.

I find it interesting that you can buy a cheap shirt from Gap, J Crew, etc. that has no interlining, and then be told it is overly difficult from an online MTM. You would think the equipment they use would be similar, and make the process as simple as possible. If the process was overly difficult, I'm sure these mall brands would always do a fused collar instead of their current offerings. But like you said, it is likely going to come down to the process they use.

 

[phxlawstudent]

I haven't seen a J. Crew shirt without an interlining. All mine have fused collars.

 

[Redwoood]

Kabbaz talks about it here: http://www.askandyaboutclothes.com/T...hirtMaking.htm According to him, it's easier to make a poor fused collar than an unfused collar, but easier to make an unfused than a 'proper' fused collar.

 

[duzichong]

OMG, it is unbelievable to Kabbaz's post show such useful items to others. Perheps something, the collar manufacturing process etc., is secrect to some other tailors so thanks to Kabbaz and that let me know so much thing deep about shirts making.

 

[Shirtmaven]

there are no secrets.

most mtm companies do not want to make unlined collars, because they usually look sloppy. they also usually fuse the collar bands
it should only be done with heavier oxfords. otherwise the shirt collar will look like the studd from the gap. some of these so called unlined collars do use a very lightweight fusable.

both types of constructions have advantages as well as disadvantages.
both can be made either lightweight or stiffer.
low prices mtm shirts use cheap fusables.
better shirtmakers use better linings
the better brands are wendler, gygli, and stotz. these brands can be as much as 5 times
the price of the cheap stuff

the button downs I have made for manton werelined with pinpoit oxford. these
have no starch, so are much softer. cleaner look then an unlined buttondown

 

[Redwoood]

Originally Posted by Shirtmaven

[...] they also usually fuse the collar bands
it should only be done with heavier oxfords. otherwise the shirt collar will look like the studd from the gap.
[...]

So what's the rationale for fusing the collar band? I always thought you're supposed to keep those parts of the shirt that touch skin nice and soft.

the button downs I have made for manton werelined with pinpoit oxford. these
have no starch, so are much softer. cleaner look then an unlined buttondown

That sounds like a great idea. Are there any downsides to this, e.g., is the collar noticeably thicker?

 

[Ataturk]

The interfacing on the collar band is attached to the outside, not the inside part that contacts your skin. Why? It's easier to make and looks neater.

The concern about unlined collars is mostly about what commercial laundries will do to them. If you iron it yourself you should be careful of the points and careful when you stretch the leaf, but, otherwise, they're pretty darn tough even with medium weight fabrics. Insist on an unlined collar so you can try it. Brooks Brothers made them for like 70 years and some makers still do. I love 'em for buttondowns.

Shirtmaven's right that most soft collars on ready-to-wear shirts actually use very soft fusibles, though.