Query on the Ascot Chang shirts I recently made

[Wongtouski]

Hello there,

I recently made three shirts with AC, two with their house fabric and one with the cheapest Thomas Mason option. All of which have come out very nicely and the customer service was superb as I wanted an extra spread collar and it took several fittings to get right. I do however have a question or two that borders on noob territory but I would like to get some clarification if possible.

1) I didn't specify how the french cuffs and collars would be done, so when I got them back, I found them to be quite stiff. Compared to the white Brooks non-iron shirts that I wear, the collars and cuffs are very stiff. Is it simply because of a different method of construction, or is the AC collar fused?

2) I've noticed while ironing that the thread/stitching around the armholes have had a shrinking effect. I had similar experiences with the Peter Lee stuff at the lowest price range, and haven't had this happen on the BB stuff despite washing it many many times, is that due to the fabric not being washed before tailoring?

3) My Thomas Mason shirt, the feel on the finer isn't as soft and smooth at the BB shirt that I have. I thought the higher thread count would automatically translate into a smoother fabric, or am I just missing something here?

I must clarify though, I thoroughly enjoyed making shirts with AC, they're top notch in terms of service and care, but these are just questions that my inexperience in shirtmaking aren't able to answer. If any of you have suggestions for the next time I go, I would be grateful!

 

[Shirtmaven]

are your brooks brothers shirts non-iron?

 

[stylomilo]

1. Did you specifically request for non-fused collars when ordering your AC shirts?
2. What fabric is your Brooks Brother's shirt constructed of? Is the thread count the same as your AC?

 

[Wongtouski]



are your brooks brothers shirts non-iron?

1. Did you specifically request for non-fused collars when ordering your AC shirts?
2. What fabric is your Brooks Brother's shirt constructed of? Is the thread count the same as your AC?

1) No, I figure for my first batch I'd simply let them take care of it
2) It's the basic slim fit, non-iron white shirts from BB. They retail @ $790 HKD here, they're the "entry level" ones.

 

[Shirtmaven]

why the differences?

non-iron has a coating on top

also all of the seams are taped together to prevent puckering on the non-iron shirt.

you are comparing a completely automatic machine made shirt, (Brooks brothers Non Iron) to one that was made by people who actually do the sewing rather then feeding a machine that does all of the work.( Ascot Chang)

sounds like you have a normal shirt from Ascot chang

you could ask them for different weight fusings, if they feel too stiff.

 

[Wongtouski]



why the differences?

non-iron has a coating on top

also all of the seams are taped together to prevent puckering on the non-iron shirt.

you are comparing a completely automatic machine made shirt, (Brooks brothers Non Iron) to one that was made by people who actually do the sewing rather then feeding a machine that does all of the work.( Ascot Chang)

sounds like you have a normal shirt from Ascot chang

you could ask them for different weight fusings, if they feel too stiff.

Right, that sounds good. I was just a lil bit apprehensive about what I got. I was sure that given the time they spent trying to do it properly that I for sure wasn't getting "scammed", I just wanted to get some clariification. Thanks!